Eye makeup101

Eyes can capture the soul.

I can tell a lot about a person by just looking at their eyes while they speak. I can see how they see the world and what they love, crazy as it sounds. This is why whenever I do make-up I always make it a point to bring attention to those expressive eyes.

The reality, though, is everyone has a different eye shape. The eye makeup that looks incredibly good on your friends might not exactly look the same on you. So I will help you find your eye shape and the best way to flaunt your eyes.

Round Eyes

To know if you have round eyes, look straight ahead. If you see that the white part around your iris is visible without being covered by your eyelids, then you have round eyes. The goal for this eye shape is to elongate your eyes. Using eyeliner, draw a line on your lash line and (if you want) make a small wing at the end. Then, using a lighter highlighting color, apply on the inner corners of your eye and a bit on the brow bone. Then, using your medium color, carefully pat it all over your eyelid. Then lastly, blend a darker color on your crease starting from the outside going to the middle of your eye. Voila! This will give your round eyes more shape and definition.

Hooded Eyes

Also known as bedroom eyes, hooded eyes have an extra layer of skin that droops over the crease, which naturally makes the lid look smaller. Is the crease on your eyelids visible? If not, you have hooded eyes. Don’t get me wrong: Hooded eyes are absolutely beautiful. The goal of the makeup is to draw attention upwards. First, apply a light-color shadow on the inner corner of your eyes, then using a medium-color shadow, apply a good amount on the hooded lid. You can be generous with the darker color on the crease; this gives the illusion of rounder eyes (just don’t go overboard or else you’ll look like a raccoon). Then, completing the look using waterproof eyeliner, line your eyes and extend your liner further out in order to give a balanced look.

Mono-Lid Eyes

If you do not have a visible lid when you open your eyes, you have mono-lid eyes. I always get this question from friends and clients: “How do I put eye shadow on when I do not have a visible eyelid”? Personally, a smoky eye looks beautiful with mono-lid eyes, although for a more natural look, I would advise creating dimension. Shade the darkest color closest to the lash line, then using a gradient technique, use a soft natural hue in the middle, and then a light highlight on the brow bone. This gives dimension from the eyes to the brow bone. Don’t forget to add liner with a small wing at the end and to curl your lashes. This will lift and open the eyes much more.

Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes, also known as sad eyes, are when the ends of your eyes are angled downward. The goal is to bring them up and make them look symmetrical. This is the perfect canvas for winged liner. Apply the eye shadow just like you would on round eyes except work more with liquid liner. Line along the top of the lid and then when you reach the end of your eye, curve up at a 45-degree angle. Make the wing as dramatic or as subtle as you like. The beautiful thing about winged liner is that it lifts up your eyes and makes them look alive.

Almond Eyes

When you look straight ahead, does part of your iris disappear into your lower and upper eyelid? If so, then you have almond eyes. Almond eyes are the most symmetrical of eye shapes so there is no need to change its shape. Practically any eye makeup look will look good on this eye shape. But for the natural look, just mimic the round eye application technique with the shape of your own eyes.

Protruding Eyes

Protruding eyes create the appearance of a projected lid on the eye socket area. This actually gives you a lot to work with! The goal is to minimize the space on the eyelid. No need for highlighting, the most you can do is a bit on the brow bone, but that’s it! Smoky eyes would look best for this makeup look, especially with dark tones. Dark tones recede the space and size of the eyelid. If you don’t want to do a smoky eye, apply a thick liner along the upper lash line to diminish some of the space.

Deep-Set Eyes

If your eyes are set deeper into the skull, creating the illusion of a more prominent brow bone, then you have deep-set eyes. You can use the round eye shape application technique although with this eye shape you have to be careful with dark colors because you want to accentuate the highlighted parts of the eyes to make them look rounder. Also remember to use waterproof mascara because most probably your lashes will touch your brow bone, and waterproof mascara prevents it from smearing.

Eye makeup really is the life of the whole makeup look. So make your eyes bold, make them bright and make them expressive.

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Editor’s note: Clara Marie Nuguid Pettersen spends most of her time painting people’s faces as a makeup artist. Her biggest passion is empowering her clients. You can email her at clarapettersen95@gmail.com or visit her website www.clarapettersen.com.