Talking to Texas’ hottest chef

MANILA, Philippines - Chef Grant Gordon, executive chef of Montrose Restaurant Associates, Gateway Restaurant Associates and Texas’ hottest young chef, was a finalist two years ago for the James Beard “Rising Star Chef of the Year” award. In addition to the well-regarded Tony’s, Gordon is also launching Vallone’s, a “modern classic” steakhouse where he’ll be executive chef and partner. 

In 2010, Houston native Gordon took over as executive chef of Tony’s at the age of 24, parlaying his experience and skills into the top job at one of the city’s most venerated restaurants and earning him a position on Forbes’ “30 under 30” list.  Gordon graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and proceeded to hone his skills at restaurants in New York, Napa Valley and Austin before returning to his hometown. Clearly a quick study, the chef laid the groundwork for his own experimentation with the classics. Gordon’s menu pays homage to what made Tony’s famous while pushing the envelope on new dishes. (Source: www.visithouston texas.com)

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When I learned about his age, two things entered my mind. Either it was a misprint or he is so talented that he was the one handpicked by the US embassy from among so many seasoned chefs to bring to the Philippines.  

We were introduced when he was eating with Claude at Downtown Café. The first thing I noticed was his good looks, soft curly hair and lean body, slightly slouched on the batibot chair.  In between spoons, he was expressing his appreciation and curiosity about the dishes, ingredients and spices we use on Filipino food.  He had many servings of the pork belly adobo confit and pancit pata humba, eating everything including the fatty part. He must have been a Kapampangan in his past life because he loved the talangkâ rice and wanted to bring bottles of the pure crab fat to Houston. 

PHILIPPINE STAR: You don’t look like a chef. You are so slim.

GRANT GORDON: (Chuckles, reddens)

What is your favorite food to cook?

My training is French cooking. But I also like to cook different cuisines I have eaten. There is always the learning that I find exciting.

What is your favorite food to eat?

Chinese … in particular, Sichuan. I like spicy food very much.  

Oh, I should have made you try our XO chili sauce.

I’ll love it for sure if it’s very hot.

I meant to watch him cook the steak during dinner. He chose the USDA Super Prime strip loin from Bacchus Epicure at a price I have never paid for. But alas, I was seated right next to the ambassador so I could possibly leave. Actually, my hidden motive more than the watching and learning to cook was to make sure my serving would be medium-well or, at least, have no blood oozing out when sliced.

When our steaks were served, I was honestly so surprised at the tiny portions of 2x4” mini blocks that I was expecting a full serving of the New York strip loin!  Chef Gordon had trimmed the meat and fat and discarded so much, saving only the prime part to grill and serve. It was surely awesome, from its texture and flavor to doneness.  

Our son Nico, who was in the kitchen learning from him, quoted him as saying, “Fine dining is about wasting.”  Hmm, no wonder I am not for fine dining, and no wonder Filipino food is not served fine dining-style.  We would not have the heart to waste.  But surely, I cannot argue since it was one perfectly done steak with its tenderness and natural juices retained.  The following day, Claude cooked the trimmings and fat into salpicao with garlic rice for breakfast.  Now, that is the successful collaboration of two chefs from a superpower country and a developing one.