Revisiting Malabon's hidden treasures

Food is not about impressing people. It’s about making them feel comfortable. —Ina Garten

 Weekends spent traveling with friends and relatives is such a thrilling experience, its gives you a euphoria that you would not exchange with anything else in this world. There are rare times when the hectic schedules of culinary practitioners and close friends alike collide on a free day when everybody is available; a frenzy begins, a food trip is meticulously orchestrated, and a tasteful adventure begins.

This was exactly the scenario last Sunday when chef Ed Quimson and I hauled all our friends and family for a road trip to one of the most delectable cities on the outskirts of Manila. Our foodie caravan found itself at a little restaurant on 201 General Luna Street, right smack in the middle of Malabon City. Our group headed for Jamico’s Restaurant, more popularly known as Judy Ann’s Crispy Pata, which was established in 1972. Jamico is a trade name derived from the names of the two youngest children of the owners. Their grandfather,

Done the Malabon way: Sweet and sour camaron rebosado

Remeyno Antonio, who was a food enthusiast, founded it. Save the fact that he was a jeepney driver who sired four children and drove the Gasak- Quiapo route relentlessly, he concocted a recipe for a succulent crispy pata or pork knuckles, the meat of which was tender and moist, while its pork skin was crispy and tangy at the same time. There is absolutely nothing simple or boring to eat at this place, from their parade of tortas, or scrambled eggs mixed with shrimp, pork, and beef, to their unconventional tokwa’t baboy that had neither crispy fried tokwa nor braised pork but rather an interesting, sauced-over version that gave you just the right taste. In contrast to our classic chop suey and pancit, which would seem scarcely filling given its plain appearance, once eaten, you will be surprised at the flavors and textures that play with your palate to no end. You’d think you were transported into one of those posh Chinese restaurants where everything is done to perfection. I was pleased to have come so far just in order to find such authentically prepared

Not your usual fare: Torta con hipon

Filipino cuisine, presented in their original Malabon way. In fact, the famous Judy Ann Crispy Pata, a title that has nothing to do with its celebrity counterpart, is named after his youngest child and current owner Judy Ann Francisco. Now all grown up, a dentist by trade, she manages the restaurant with her sister Susan Antonio- Corvera. These two sisters are fulfilling their promise to their late father, who constantly reminded them to never neglect what was at the time a little hole-in-the-wall eatery. He had so much faith and foresight that he would compel young Judy Ann to promise him to take care of the little eatery even long after he was gone, knowing that it would be his legacy to his children. In taking care of Jamico’s, they could help their family have a better life, so through the ’70s, ’80s, ’90s and now 2012, these two sisters have worked hard and maintained their staff and even improved on operations, all for the sake of upholding their promise to their beloved father. Even now their kitchen staff Mang Manding or Armando Purisima, and Mang Teng Teng or Agusto Moncada,their loyal cripy pata specialists that have cooked and helped Mr. Antonio start Jamico’s, is a testimony to the succession plan and long term goal of Jamico’s to stay in the game for a long time, since her sons are being trained to take over once they decide to retire. And so goes the story of management where two of Mr. Antonio’s grandchildren, namely Efrhaim Jan Francisco,

Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside:Judy Ann’s crispy pata

Judy’s son, and Jaimie Corvera, Susan’s daughter, have developed an interest in managing and expanding Jamico’s for the future, and with that kind of passion, Jamico’s continues to establish a heritage that Malabon is fortunate to have. As we headed back to Manila, I insisted on stopping by Betsy’s Cake House to have a taste of their soft broas, and their assortment of sweetened delicacies such as their sensational minatamis na saging na saba with kondol, minatamis na gabi and yellow and orange kamote all drenched in their traditional arnibal, or sugar syrup. This was the sweet kiss that signaled the end of our revelries. It’s a blessing to be able to revisit Malabon’s famous treasures, and I do believe that this is an adventure that will leave epic memories with my family and friends for years to come.

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All in the family: Judy Ann’s Crispy Pata owners Dr. Judy Ann Antonio Francisco and sister Susan Antonio-Corvera