A chic boutique river cruise on the Rhine
If you’ve taken a cruise, then you can picture this: On the top deck, you’ll find children splash-bombing into a half-Olympic sized pool, while their parents keep one eye on them as they sip their daytime cocktails by the poolside bar. On each end is a hot tub with a stew of beer cans, cigarettes, and oversexed twenty-something singles. Sprawled out on the lounge chairs are retirees taking a nap as the Mexican mid-afternoon sun sizzles.
For the next four days or so, this cast of characters will intermingle onboard, whether they walk past each other by the seemingly endless halls of cabins, sit side by side at the slot machines in the casino, participate in dance-offs, onboard trivia games, or go see a topless show, which is sometimes known to accidentally offstage when you’re amid a gaggle of bachelorette party celebrations. And then there are the clubs, bars, karaoke lounges, and all-you-can-eat buffets open until midnight to satisfy indulgences from booze to pizza. It is like having Disneyland, the Vegas Strip, and a five -star hotel all in one floating vessel. Sometimes, this kind of cruise can be a dizzying one, especially if your mornings are spent in recovery rather than relaxation.
I’ve been to several similar ocean voyages in different parts of the world. And just when I thought myself to be a jaded cruise traveller, I recently embarked on another one that introduces a new chic level of cruising. This time in Uniworld’s boutique ship, the River Ambassador.
There are no glass elevators shuffling between floors, no grand staircase based with garish sculptures, not even a thousand lights to dazzle the main lobby. Instead, there is a mid-sized crystal chandelier hung low just above the mini bon-bon buffet, where there are tall clear jars filled with multicolored chewy and gummy sweets. There are no meandering passageways in this straightforward ship, only two floors of hallways for the staterooms, where you’ll find selected prints and modern artworks, including Matisse and Picasso.
The stylish interiors make up for the compactness of the staterooms. Ours was themed in powder blue, with handcrafted Savoir beds swathed in high-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets, European duvets, and even a pillow menu. To add to the feeling of spaciousness, you have a mirrored wall where the flat-screen television is mounted, and a large window — some with French balconies — for a panoramic view of the river.
The boutique feel extends to the rest of the décor, where you’ll find highly individualized touches, like mid-century French movie posters framed at the Diplomat Bar, choice coffee table books such as the recent issue of 50 Wonders of the World by Hugh Thomson, and A Life in Food, a memoir by Beatrice Tollman, president and founder of Uniworld and Red Carnation Hotels, all backdropped in an elegant texture of leather chairs, plush grey cushions, and ivory drapery.
Even more outstanding is the service, with the poise of being affable and attentive. The Edelweiss Brasserie restaurant features a gastronome menu paired with regional wines, and even accommodates special diets. Unlike most cruises, where dining placements are pre-designated, here you have the pleasure of mixing and socializing with seasoned globetrotting passengers, mainly from the United States, Canada, Britain, Australia and New Zealand. Some are even doyens in their own fields, including published authors, businessmen, and even a gentleman who invented heat shields for space shuttles.
The journey begins in Prague. Dubbed as “The City of a Hundred Spires,” it actually has more than 500 today. And though castles and churches abound in practically every corner, its citizens today do not claim to be the most religious in Europe. But they certainly built magnificent historic architectonics over the centuries.
The most distinguished is located in the castle district of Hradcany. Simply called the Prague Castle, it is where kings, emperors and presidents have held office for nearly a millennium. By the entrance stand guards in a distinguished shade of azure uniforms by Theodor Pistek, the Academy Award- winning costume designer for the movie Amadeus.
Inside the castle walls is the St. Vitus Cathedral. Its stunning aesthetic is a blend of architectural styles: art nouveau stained glasses, rococo pews, neo-gothic gargoyles, baroque buttresses, and a Renaissance tomb of Ferdinand V, who once resided in the castle during the Holy Roman Empire.
Head east over the Vltava River via the Charles Bridge to the Old Town Hall and see the most hyped tourist attraction, where hundreds gather every hour to see the Astronomical Clock do its thing. From 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. on the dot, a 45-second display of chiming features statues of the 12 Apostles parading through the blue colored windows, and its finale, the crow of the golden rooster atop. A curious display indeed, but the Astronomical Clock remains one of the most iconic points of interest in the Czech Republic.
Wander north to the Josefov, and visit the most visited Jewish museum not just in Prague, but also in the world. Many of its original buildings, synagogues and cemetery still stand in the Jewish quarters after its vast Nazi occupation. The descendants of those who survived the termination camps in Auschwitz now call the Jewish quarters their community and home.
A mere 65 kilometers away is the Terezin concentration camp, where the Christian cross and the star of David are both transfixed on the same cemetery grounds just outside the fortress. As you enter, a sign above the gate reads the misguiding dictum of the time: Arbeit macht frei, translated as “Work sets you free.” Entering the prison cells, the crowded stables , and communal shower rooms, one can’t help but feel the specter of such inhumanity that transpired within these walls.
Though there are remnants of the vile atrocities, there are also glimpses of hope. The Terezin Memorial houses archives of the cultural life in the ghetto, including magazine publications, artworks, poetry, and even musical plays with elaborate props and costumes where children participated in. One called Brundibar (“Bumblebee”) by Hans Krasa, seemed to be a favorite of the people with its optimistic themes, was performed 55 times. Call it escapism, or call it faith.
From Prague, we made our way to Nuremberg via motorcoach, where the river cruise begins from the Main River, heading westwards docking off several cities and towns while passing through some 40 locks for the next seven days towards the Rhine.
There are excursions to satisfy every flavor of pursuit. For the history buffs, there’s the Nuremberg World War II tour, where you will stand on the very grounds of the Zeppelin Field, the deployment area for the Nazi Party. What was once adorned with swastika flags for rallies has become a venue for the annual Rock Im Park music festival, where Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, Marilyn Manson and Tina Turner have rocked the stage, and have National Socialist Party members rolling over their graves.
For beer lovers, there’s the brewery experience in Bamburg, where the legal drinking age is 16 and beer is cheaper than bottled water. It is also home to the famous smoked beer. For admirers of design, the city of Wurzburg will take you to the stunning Wurzburg Residenz, A UNESCO World Heritage Building containing the world’s largest fresco. Its grandeur is reminiscent of Versailles, with its grand chandeliers, tapestries, and fixtures made with gold. A private wine-tasting follows at the Residenz cellars illuminated by candlelight, where wine aficionados and casual drinkers alike will delight in sampling local wein.
The most regal sojourn of all is our arrival at the Kleinheubach Castle, where Her Royal Highness Anastasia, Princess of Löwenstein-Wertheim-Rosenberg herself welcomes us with a rare and special appearance. As she takes us on a personal tour of the palace that her ancestors have owned for centuries, we walk up the grand staircase, and she shares a fond memory of her grandchildren sliding down the banister. It was an anecdote to remind us that even the most royal families share the simplest joys.
The River Ambassador approaches the Rhine River, and our mid-morning frühschoppen on the sundeck marks the start of the 64-kilometer stretch that has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its gorgeous landscape and historical monuments. As the final hours of our cruise come to a close, the mise en scène uncovers castles, roaring trains, vineyards, halcyon towns, and the ship passing underneath low bridges as we look up at local passers-by, and they, down at us.
I wonder whose glance looked more wistful — theirs or mine.
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Uniworld Boutique River Cruises sails in Russia, Europe, Egypt, China, Vietnam and Cambodia. For more information, contact Rajah Travel Corporation at 894-0886 or 523-8801. Visit www.rajahtravel.com or email reservationsmnl@rajahtravel.com
