Philippine designers are on trend for fashion 2020
Thom Browne
Red Charity Gala ramp photos by Patrick Uy
Philippine designers are on trend for fashion 2020
ART DE VIVRE - Ricky Toledo, Chito Vijandre (The Philippine Star) - January 15, 2020 - 12:00am

Now that it’s 2020, you surely want a clear vision of how to dress this year. 

The recent Red Charity Gala that brought together the first 10 designers of the past editions had many clues aligned with trends seen on the Paris, London, Milan and New York runways. Sustainability and climate change were big issues abroad, with designers like Stella McCartney at the forefront. Even Alexander McQueen featured upcycling of materials from old collections. Attention to craft and artisanship was emphasized to come up with less clothes but with the emphasis on quality, which was seen aplenty among the RCG designers with their sculpted, artful looks done with impeccable craftsmanship.

Climate change also means warmer weather, which calls for lighter fabrics, baggy trousers, lots of shorts and underwear worn as outerwear.  With the uncertain times, a nostalgic look to the past continues with ’70s prints and disco collars and cheery frills from tiered ruffles to fringes.  

Dennis Lustico with hat by Gino Gonzales

Sculpt to wear

Sculpted shapes will give you the edge, from Dennis Lustico’s voluminous silhouettes of Tang Dynasty court ladies to Cary Santiago’s art-to-wear Japanese geishas. Heading west to the 17th and 18th centuries are the panniers of Thom Browne and Chito Vijandre.  Moschino’s graphic butterfly sleeves, Maison Margiela’s bud petal top and Prabal Gurung’s feathered cocoon skirt will also make the cut. 

Cary Santiago

Frills aplenty

Michael Cinco’s tiered flamenco dresses with ruffles and Ezra Santos’ red-hot layered flounces are all the drama you need for those grand entrances. For asymmetric drama there’s Dries Van Noten’s brocade collaboration with Christian Lacroix. 

Rajo Laurel’s fringes in raffia guarantee you will twirl away with glamour all night long.  Feathers are also big, with many choices for frocks, from Burberry to Valentino.  Give it an edge with jeans, like at Attico. 

Balmain

Metallica

Lesley Mobo’s Hollywood siren metallic gowns will definitely rock at the ball.  If you want more volume, there’s Balenciaga’s fairy gown.  Rick Owens mixes artsy, sculpted details, while Saint Laurent dresses it down with a black singlet top. 

Chito Vijandre

That seventies show

Jojie Lloren’s impeccably cut Filipiniana pieces catch a ’70s vibe, with disco collars that also showed up at Paco Rabanne and Louis Vuitton. Retro wallpaper prints at Christopher Kane, Prada and Marc Jacobs were redolent of that era. For a whiff of crafty ’70s bohemia, go for updated crochet, like Marni’s psychedelic dresses or Kate Spade’s pastel pinafores. 

The three-piece suit

The three-piece suit will give you distinction next season, thanks to the looks favored by Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Burberry.  Joey Samson gave it his own twist with a quilted bomber draped nonchalantly on the shoulders of his dapper dandy. 

Comme des Garçons’ came in monochrome pink satin, while Gucci and Louis Vuitton blocked it with colors and prints.  For warmer weather, just use the vest à la Ralph Lauren, another key look for the season.  

Underwear as outerwear

When temperatures really rise, it’s just the bra left to pair with trousers and skirts.  Loewe went daringly sheer, while Christopher Kane’s was sculptural sci-fi. JW Anderson did jeweled outline appliqués on draped ensembles. Furne One favored a beaded corset paired with a show-stopping parachute cape modeled by Marina Benipayo. 

Short stories

Shorts can get really tiny with the hot pants at Chanel and Saint Laurent, styled with tights at the former and with knee high boots at the latter. Long-sleeved tops and jackets balance out this  look. For the more modest, bermudas are also in fashion, particularly as short suits, as seen in neutrals at Bottega Veneta and Givenchy and in hot fuchsia at Tom Ford. 

Bag those trousers

Long trousers still figure but in the roomiest versions for absolute cool. Carolina Herrera added pleats on the upper thigh for added volume and Oscar dela Renta embellished one leg with floral embroidery. Jacquemus went bright orange on cargo pants worn with a long sundress unbuttoned all the way up for a bare midriff. 

Merry polkas

Polka dots are the overwhelming print trend.  Black dots on sheer organza were divine over a bright yellow off-the-shoulder trapeze at Carolina Herrera, and stunning at Dries Van Noten’s print-on-print collaboration with Christian Lacroix. A younger, more playful look was seen in the multicolor version with heart appliqué at Paco Rabanne. 

Be seen in green

With nature and sustainability on the agenda, green was a favorite color, from Balmain’s bubble mini to the neon gowns at Valentino. It came in florals and foliage at Balenciaga and Givenchy.  If green is not your color, go for the other bright primary hues in season, like carrot orange, sunny yellow or scarlet red.    

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Follow the authors on Instagram @rickytchitov; Twitter @RickyToledo23, and Facebook: Ricky Toledo Chito Vijandre

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