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Youth on Fire

Karen Bolilia (The Philippine Star) - March 20, 2015 - 12:00am

THE INFLUENCERS

MANILA, Philippines - Simon Porte-Jacquemus (Jacquemus), Julien Dossena (Paco Rabanne), JW Anderson (Loewe and JW Anderson) and Virgil Abloh (Off-White) lead the pack of young designers by introducing new propositions. This much-talked-about lot offers a fresh perspective on fashion with an unexpected take on silhouettes, and a brave approach when it comes to dressing women. Innovative and not overtly sexy, this group also distinctly puts an emphasis on the styling of their clothes — whether it be playful, offbeat, or street-style bait, their strength lies in understanding their market (probably because of the collective

flurry of their Instagram activities).

NEW STREET

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne (Public School NYC), Demna Gvasalia

(Vetements), Shayne Oliver (Hood by Air), and Gosha Rubchinskiy all make a case for streetwear now — or more accurately, what streetwear could be. Focusing on

proportions as much as the spirit that motivates it, these designers go above and

beyond Highsnobiety. Nothing too flashy, nothing too hysterical, and just trendy enough — it’s the restraint shown in their work that makes it all the more covetable.

THE POWER DRESSERS

While fashion is still all abuzz over looking clean and minimal, a.k.a. stealth wealth — a byproduct of the financial crisis (who says fashion is out of touch with reality?) wherein women’s clothes became more simple, functional, low-key, and (cough) logo-free — a movement famously started by the reigning queen of Stan Smiths (No contest there. Please.), Celine’s Phoebe Philo. Designers took elegant strides when it comes to silhouette — choosing knit trousers styled with a delicate ecru sheath; a proportion that is continuously being reimagined until now. But designers like Olivier Rousteing (Balmain) and Anthony Vaccarrello (Versus and Anthony Vaccarrello) hold down the fort on the other side of the coin — empowering women to lust over sexy and glamorous clothes again — high slits, low necklines, a body that won’t quit. A feat that isn’t hard to achieve, especially when you’ve got an army…

THE NEW ROMANTICS

The new ladylike form arrives into the stream of

consciousness as a confident, self-assured, grown-ass woman. Thanks to designers like Rosie Assoulin, Kym Ellery (Ellery), Simone Rocha, and newly minted Carven creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, we come to know frills that exude strength, and hemlines that don’t stop short at just defining your legs. We are tickled pink by the refreshing shapes they create. When it comes to directional luxe/resort wear, their way is the way to go.

THE ECCENTRICS

Here at YStyle, we also like to celebrate designers who break the fourth wall, often using their clothes as canvas for social commentary. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta (Eckhaus Latta), Yang Li, Craig Green and Marques Almeida are all cult favorites, and also, admittedly, something of an acquired taste. The looks they churn out aren’t immediately easy on the eyes, maybe even weird or farfetched for some. It’s niche fashion born out of not only burgeoning subcultures,

but also of a conceptual framework that’s eclipsed by commerce now. Four for you, Glen Cocos.

ADRIEN CAILLAUDAUD ALEXIS MARTIAL ANTHONY VACCARRELLO CRAIG GREEN AND MARQUES ALMEIDA DAO-YI CHOW AND MAXWELL OSBORNE DEMNA GVASALIA ECKHAUS LATTA GLEN COCOS
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