Deconstructed sukiyaki and other thrills at Ryugin

On my recent “babymoon” to Hong Kong I told my husband that I wasn’t going to have a dining plan; for some reason I wanted to wing it, which is quite uncharacteristic of me since each trip I take is usually a food trip wherein each meal is carefully mapped out. Surprised and confused, he completely supported my unusual idea, thinking that maybe I was going through an odd pregnancy phase. Well, that didn’t last too long. Soon after I discovered that the three-Michelin-star Ryugin of Japan opened their first international outpost in HK I just had to eat there. Never mind if I wasn’t allowed to eat raw sushi or sashimi (doctor’s orders), I had to convince my husband there was nothing to worry about, with the help of lengthy, Google-based research into several baby sites where I found out that a lot of Japanese women continue to eat raw fish even when knocked up, as long as it’s of the freshest and highest quality. Plus, my husband knows better than to say no to a pregnant woman — and a hungry one, if I may add.

Ryugin was opened in Roppongi in 2003 by chef and proprietor Seiji Yamamoto to “pursue the possibilities of Japanese cuisine.” By 2007 he garnered two Michelin stars and kept those stars four years in a row. This year, Ryugin received its third star and is ranked #20 in the San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants in the World list. Chef Seiji Yamamoto may not be a celebrity chef, but it’s no surprise that he is revered by many, from Joel Robuchon and Ferran Adria to younger star chefs such as Graham Elliot and Wylie Dufresne, who’ve trekked their way to Tokyo to dine at his three-Michelin-star restaurant. 

Last April chef Yamamoto opened on the 101st floor of ICC, Kowloon, bringing with him his protégé, Hideaki Sato, and five of his top apprentices to lead the Hong Kong outpost. There’s only one kaiseki menu available that is personally designed by Yamamoto himself and is executed perfectly by chef de cuisine Sato. The kaiseki menu changes every season and, of course, a tailor-made dining experience is also available by advance request.

Another favorite: Lightly torched Sarawa Japanese Spanish mackerel with shungiku and salmon caviar

Our 12-course autumn kaiseki menu began with a chawan mushi of grilled shiitake mushroom, Kurumaebi shrimp, lily bulb, and ginko nuts. Unlike other chawan mushi that I’ve had before, this one had a deep brownish color because of the shiitake mushroom and was topped with roasted seaweed, which made it quite aromatic. It was so delicate and velvety in its consistency that the lily bulb and giant ginko nut added a whole lot of texture, which also gave it a nutty flavor. There was a touch of fresh wasabi as well to give it a little kick. 

The mixed salad of Kegani crab and sea urchin from Hokkaido topped with black vinegar jelly of chrysanthemum was a winner. Being an uni lover, this one really hit the spot. Combined with a bit of avocado, which added to the richness of the dish and some diced cucumber that created a crunch, the second course was all about bringing out the freshness of its ingredients. The dish having a tinge of ginger conveyed the sweetness of the Kegani crab as well as the Hokkaido uni, especially when mixed together with the black vinegar jelly of chrysanthemum wherein it created this light, aromatic tartness to the whole dish.  Next came the soup of abalone, prepared with premium broth, sesame lotus mochi and Shyougoin turnips. The star of this course was the deep-fried sesame lotus mochi, which was golden brown and slightly firm on the outside while being perfectly fluffy and cloudlike on the inside — I literally wanted a plate of it! 

Another fave of mine was the lightly torched Sarawa Japanese-Spanish mackerel with shungiku and ikura — imagine medium-thick slices of Sarawa wrapped around grated radish soaked in ponzu sauce topped generously with salmon caviar and a bit of spring onions. The rich and salty flavor of the ikura combined with the citrusy tang of the ponzu highlighted the freshness of the Sarawa. 

The sixth course was an Alfonsino marinated in yuzu-flavored white miso, served with an eggplant and endive confit, topped with shaved raw chestnuts.  Although beautifully plated, it lacked oomph and seemed more blah. Maybe if the chestnuts had been roasted it would have given it more flavor. Overall it was a grilled, miso-marinated white fish.

The next course was a stellar hit! Although how could anyone go wrong with an A4 Matsusaka Wagyu beef sirloin? The sukiyaki of kuroge or Matsusaka Wagyu with onsen tamago was ethereal, more like a deconstructed sukiyaki. The egg was served separately and was slightly poached to avoid salmonella, to be used more like a dipping sauce instead of mixing it with the broth. The slightly thick Wagyu nesting in the semi-sweet sukiyaki broth served with roasted manji pepper and kujonegi was heavenly. I was savoring each bite and hoping that there were more slices of the beef, but after a while the A4 grade started to kick in and too much of it may not be such a great idea. I guess chef Seiji and chef Hideaki have definitely mastered the art of portioning as well. 

Still high from the sukiyaki, I was quite glad that the next course was just rice. But this was no ordinary rice dish. Koshihikari rice was simmered in flavored dashi broth with minced chicken and mixed vegetables such as carrots and mushroom, as well as minced scrambled egg yolk topped with sancho leaves and served with pickled cabbage and miso soup.  The complexity in taste of this rice dish made up for its simplicity — yes, it was just rice but the slightly sticky texture of the Koshihikari mixed with the simple essence of dashi and other ingredients created several layers of flavor that was just so savory, especially when topped with the sancho leaves. You’d think it was just a garnish but every ingredient had a purpose. It was my first time to try fresh sancho leaves and it’s definitely one of my faves now — the taste has a hint of lemon yet it’s still earthy and peppery at the same time.

Next was the cold Teuchi soba, which is handmade buckwheat noodles served with a pinch of fresh wasabi, which we were advised to mix with the noodles. The soba helped cleanse our palette as we readied ourselves for the dessert courses. 

The first dessert was a Ryugin signature — 196 C Candy Pear and +99 C Pear Jam. This dessert was meant for us to enjoy “the contrast of temperatures.” The candy pear looked like a shiny porcelain ornament that we were advised to crack open with our spoon. It was filled with ice cream powder, on which our server then poured extremely hot pear jam that merged with the ice cream powder. It was an amazing dessert — the crunch of the candy pear combined with the ice cream powder and pear jam was such a great play on contrasts, not only in temperature but texture as well.

The last dessert course was the strawberry pudding with fresh strawberry compote that I enjoyed due to the natural sweetness of the fruit, as well as the creamy yet light pudding that was similar to panna cotta.

Last came the matcha, which was a warm cup of green tea with milk froth just to end our perfectly wonderful meal. I highly recommend a bottle of their Grand Vintage tea, which is made especially for chef Yamamoto to go with the kaiseki. The Grand Vintage tea is cold tea that is golden in color and is served in a wine glass so you can enjoy its aroma with every sip. It’s quite bold, so those sensitive to caffeine should be forewarned.

Chef Seiji Yamamoto’s Ryugin is beyond the definition of kaiseki. Though his dishes are deeply rooted in Japanese tradition, his execution is somewhat modern and his flavor combinations are quite complex and unique, creating different angles on the typical dish as he makes his own version that somehow enhances and allows his dishes to stand out even more strongly. His cuisine is all about contrasts — traditional yet innovative, humble yet ambitious, subtle yet bold.

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Ryugin is at 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon, Hong Kong, tel. (852) 2302-0222.