Iolani palace: Of sad stories and 'Hawaii Five-O'

I’ve always felt that the old television show, Hawaii Five-O, starring Jack Lord, has one of the catchiest opening themes. Even now, when I listen to it, I have to restrain myself from getting up from my chair and dancing the twist! The images that went with this music were also quite arresting. I suppose they have deeply influenced how I think of Hawaii: beautiful women on the beach, surfing, glamorous buildings. There was one woman who is caught by the camera as she briskly turns, her hair whipping around her. I must confess that for the longest time I dreamed about having long tresses that I would flick aside seductively! I’m sure that I am not the only one!

Practically every episode featured a shot of an impressive edifice with a mansard roof. This was supposed to be where Jack Lord held office. On a recent visit to the United State’s paradise-like 50th state, my host Hawaiian Congressman Joey Manahan (who is actually Filipino) explained to me that this magnificent building seen on the TV show was actually the Iolani Palace, the former residence of the Royal Family of Hawaii.

The palace was built in the late 19th century by the Hawaiian king David Kalakaua. Apparently, leasing land to American entrepreneurs generated considerable revenue for the monarchy at that time. There was enough money to build on a grand scale.

Increased economic activity led by American businessmen brought wealth for the monarchy but would unfortunately also lead to its downfall. A number of Americans had originally come as missionaries but their interests would soon shift to business ventures. Large sugar plantations were set up, which brought great prosperity to those who had access to resources. With prosperity came the increased influence of Western perspectives and lifestyles. This influence would help erode Hawaiian cultural values and create great changes in life on the islands. 

Royal meals in the state dining room: Much of the palace’s furniture came from Boston while the beautiful porcelain that is also displayed came from France.

Eventually the American business community campaigned for absorption into the United States. By 1893, the monarchy would be overthrown.

Today, Iolani Palace stands as a witness to the tumultuous period in which it was erected. King David Kalakaua commissioned the Victorian-inspired palace

to enhance the status of the Royal Family who would reside here for only 11 years. “Io” means hawk while “Lani” refers to heavenly. King David is also affectionately remembered as the “Merry Monarch” as he was fond of the good life and was a patron of the arts. The graceful building surrounded by palm trees has been described as an example of the American Neo-Renaissance style.

Despite the palace’s grandeur, I was horrified to find out when I took a guided tour that, at one point, it was nearly demolished to create a parking lot! What were they thinking? Fortunately Iolani survived and today it is lovingly cared for by the state and the people of Hawaii.

At the beginning of our tour we were all made to put cloth covers on our shoes to protect the beautiful wooden floors. This is something we should learn from for our own heritage house museums. Not only does it preserve the magnificent but fragile wooden surfaces but it also enhances a sense of respect for the structure itself.

Picture this: Portraits of many Hawaiian kings and queens. I couldn’t help thinking that they all looked so uncomfortable and bored in their tight and constricting Western-style outfits. I’m sure they would rather be dressed in their free-form Hawaiian clothes, enjoying the cool sea breezes.

Much of the palace’s furniture came from Boston while the beautiful porcelain that is also displayed came from France. What caught my attention were the exquisite etchings on the windows. I was quite impressed then I noticed something: they were totally European, nothing to do with Hawaii. Sure enough, the guide pointed out that the artist had never reached these shores.

In the Grand Hall hang portraits of many Hawaiian kings and queens. I couldn’t help thinking that they all looked so uncomfortable and bored in their tight and constricting Western-style outfits. I am sure they would rather be dressed in their free-form Hawaiian clothes, enjoying the cool sea breezes.

The palace was a venue of great opulence, state dinners and balls, laughter and music. It originally had gas chandeliers but electric features were installed just a few years after Thomas Alva Edison invented the first working light bulb. Clearly the Hawaiian monarchs didn’t want to miss out on the latest technological trends.

Sadly, the beautiful palace would also be the gilded cage for King David’s sister Lili’uokalani. She would reign for two short years after which she was imprisoned for nine months when the monarchy was overthrown by forces led by the disgruntled businessmen. Lili’uokalani was very artistic. She composed 155 songs that all speak about her deep love for her country. While imprisoned she would write Ke Aloha O Ka Haku, also known as The Queen’s Prayer, which is still a great favorite.

Sitting pretty: The throne room of Iolani Palace, built in the late 19th century by the Hawaiian king David Kalakaua.

The palace was then used by the first governor of the state. It was when the governor moved to the capitol that the Iolani was featured in the opening credits of the famous TV series, Hawaii Five-O.

My daughter Paloma, seeing my interest in the Iolani Palace, called my attention to the beautiful film made about the last princess, Ka’iulani. She was a beautiful and charming young woman who was declared heir apparent by her aunt Lili’uokalani. She rented the movie from iTunes for me and I spent a lovely evening enjoying the royal love story. The first part of the film is actually shot in the palace so it gives us a good picture of court life. Eventually the Princess had to be spirited away by her father to avoid the revolt of the sugar planters. Her story is quite beautiful and sad. She was torn between the man she fell in love with while she lived in England on the one hand and her dedication to her country on the other. She finally gives her heart to her country and returns to Hawaii. 

She makes a side trip to Washington, DC, to campaign for the rights of her countrymen to vote. She returns to Hawaii but dies at the age of 23, some claim of a broken heart. She told the San Francisco Chronicle, “When news of the Annexation (of Hawaii by the United States) came it was more bitter than death to me.”

Decades after her demise, President Clinton would sign The Apology Resolution to native Hawaiians on behalf of the United States for the overthrow of the kingdom of Hawaii. Would this have made the Princess happy?

The author Bea Jr. and Karen Santos: Practically every episode of Hawaii Five-O featured a shot of an impressive edifice with a mansard roof, where the character Jack Lord holds office. It is actually the Iolani Palace, the former residence of the Royal Family of Hawaii.

Thinking about the beauty of the Iolani and its sad story it struck me that this edifice actually had a Filipino connection. Hawaii now has a thriving Filipino community whose growing visibility is clearly illustrated by the fact that one of the Hawaiian congressional representatives was actually born in the Philippines. 

A number of the Filipinos in Hawaii are also descendants of Filipinos recruited decades ago to work on the large sugar plantations. As I also noted earlier, the increase in economic activities with the new industries like the growing of sugar also enriched the Hawaiian royal family who were then inspired to build their new home. 

Though Filipino laborers only came in greater numbers in the 20th century after the palace had been built and after the monarchy had been overthrown, one could say that they were part of the sugar industry that had so influenced the course of Hawaiian history.

A more direct connection with Iolani palace is the fact that Filipinos were also supposed to have played in the royal band. I find it interesting that even then, Filipino musicians were already being brought to different parts of the world because of their talent!

Contemplating this last bit of information, I couldn’t help thinking: Did Filipino musicians help cheer up the Hawaiian monarchs? When Queen Lili’uokalani was imprisoned, was she serenaded by the sweet melody of one of our original manongs? When Princess Ka’iulani returned with a broken heart to her beloved Hawaii, was a band of Filipinos waiting to greet her?

I guess we will never know. But at least we can be certain that our kababayans were part of the history of the great royal palace of Hawaii.