How to wear this season's red lips without looking like a drag queen
There’s nothing I love more than a red lip.
When the bags under my eyes are large enough to be considered check-in luggage and my skin is grainy from lack of sleep, I slap on some Ruby Woo, a deep, rich matte red from MAC that has become my Holy Grail, and suddenly look — for all intents and purposes — alive. Festive even.
That’s the power of the red lip. It draws the eye. It provides gravitas. It imparts a sense of mystery.
And yet. There are ladies who misappropriate the red lip. Instead of letting it hang alone on a wall to bask in its singular power like an overpriced piece of art, they crowd the same wall with tchotchkes and unnecessary pieces that only detract from its charm.
This is a long-winded metaphor. What I mean to say is: Wearing a red lip with a full face of makeup — unless you’re headed to the Oscars or something similarly momentous — can be a lot of look.
And by “a lot of look,” I mean perilously close to drag territory. Trust me. It’s on Google Maps next to that’s-enough-eyeshadow-for-a-half-a-fleet-of-showgirls-during-a-Streisand-revival corner.
“It’s a case of over-accessorizing,” says James Molloy, MAC makeup artistry director and makeup artist to celebs like Emma Watson, Fergie and Dita von Teese.
“A great way to avoid that is to start with a red lip first.”
James Molloy “You might think, ‘Oh, I don’t really need anything else,’ after you’ve applied it,” he observes. “What women generally do is they do the rest of their face then they apply the lip. And all of sudden, you’ve got an entire look. My tip is start with the lip and build around that.”
Even Francois Nars agrees, having declared recently, that “red lipstick makes clothes look edgy… but be careful to make sure it looks modern, not ‘madame.’”
Essentially: less is more.
Molloy adds that skipping the lipliner helps. “Lipliner has its place and it’s an amazing product but sometimes it can make you feel too done.”
His advice: “Keep it chic, keep it simple, keep it statement.”
The new red
Though MAC’s Ruby Woo is a classic, this season’s red is more playful. Less Old Hollywood, more Hollywood Hills after-party.
“It’s all about the tomato red, the orange red,” Molloy declares.
Set on a neutral palette, face practically bare except for a light dusting of sheer finish, this season’s take is fresher. Less studied. Instead of a high-wattage red carpet event, this trend takes its cues from a more relaxed setting — maybe a night in some obscure European spot where it’s considered déclassé to even brush your hair.
Skip the earrings
If you’re wearing a full-on red pout, maybe skip the over-the-top accessories like earrings. While it’s exciting to clash color and hue, there’s something to be said for keeping things unembellished.
“While I love the full-on look, this season is about understated glamour. It’s about tailoring, being selective,” Molloy says.
His two cents: “If you’re wearing earrings, don’t wear a necklace.”
Invest in a larger brush
There’s nothing more drag than the too-obvious contour. I’ve seen cheeks riddled with a stripe so thick, I’ve mistaken them for tanning catastrophes.
“Oh no, did you lay out in the sun too long?”
“What? No! That’s my contouring, stupid.”
Your contouring is thicker than my résumé and I’m the stupid one?
Molloy suggests using larger brushes for a softer finish. Smaller brushes concentrate color, depositing intense powders for a stronger, visible effect. A larger brush disperses particles for a more sheer application.
When you’re on the go
For touch-ups, Molloy’s advice is to go with a pigment-less powder for oily T-zone repair. Using a colored powder leaves you three times darker than your original skin tone at the end of the day after more than a few bathroom-break makeup repairs.
