A glorious ‘Him’ to world cuisines

With a name that’s a mouthful, chef Him Uy de Baron (yes, that really is his name), who graduated with a Le Cordon Bleu Diplome de Cuisine from Le Cordon Bleu Sydney Culinary Arts Institute, has blazed a trail in the local food industry as restaurateur and consultant that many can only dream to approximate. From his early days as executive chef of a catering company called Chef Cuisine, I really took notice of his kitchen prowess as he got involved consulting for East in Rustan’s Makati, then opened his own eatery near ABS-CBN, Nomama — his glorious take on Japanese dishes. He then proceeded to establish I Am Kim at Capitol Commons — showcasing his love for Korean cooking.

With those chapters now closed, Chef Him is still a primetime busybody — joining friends to put up that Asian hawker/street food bastion, Makansutra at Megamall, and now “juggling” Chinese and American influences via the aptly named Ping Pong Diplomacy at SM Aura. And all this while other eateries bearing his stamp, such as Cocina Peruvia at BGC (as the name would suggest, his “ode” to Peruvian dishes), continue to thrive — and we recall the menu items he conceptualized for Slappy Cakes and FamilyMart’s Fresh-n-Lite.

In live performing, a ventriloquist throws his voice and creates the illusion that something inanimate or another person/object is speaking. An Impressionist dwells in a particular form of entertainment that consists of doing impressions of known celebrities or personages, giving us their own interpretation of said person, and creating something enriched for humorous and/or entertaining purposes. As such, it can be something of a tribute, while simultaneously being a new creation! I mention all the above, as the term impressionist is what comes to my mind as I ruminate on what could be Him’s culinary legacy. Similar to what jazz musicians do, Him uses a known standard like Japanese, Peruvian, Korean or Chinese cuisine, then riffs and improvises on it so that something familiar is retained, while a whole new “animal” is also teased out and given “liberty to roam.”

I know some would scoff at the analogy but I mention it in a favorable, and not derogatory manner. After all, who can truly say he or she has come up with something completely original, with no influence or pre-existing inspiration? Yet, the dishes I encountered back then at Nomama, or the ones I now enjoy at Ping Pong Diplomacy, do stand on their own as unique “creatures,” while respecting their provenance. How else can I describe his ground Wagyu beef and sharp cheddar, stuffed into a crispy deep fried wonton, served with lettuce leaves (you use the leaves to wrap the wonton), Sriracha and herbed mayo on the side — it’s called their Wonton Cheeseburger. Or his Dan Dan Chicken Skin Fried Rice, which has fermented chili bean, and turns this dish into a spicy rice, reminiscent of kimchi.

With all the different types of cuisine his establishments are known for, I joke Chef Him that unlike other chefs who gain a name and/or identity based on one particular type of cooking or even a signature dish, I would characterize Him as having culinary multiple personality disorder — and that I mean that as a compliment! Him warily agrees, saying that as a food consultant, he has to exhibit versatility and diversity, so that he can be adept at taking on whatever project comes his way. He does admit that a pipe dream project would be one centered on Filipino food — he joined Madrid Fusion last year and was invited to participate in Sisig Fiesta this year.

Bannering Makansutra, he is excited about the upcoming World Street Food Congress at the MOA Grounds this May 31 to June 4. Anthony Bourdain is a confirmed special guest and the Congress this year promises to surpass the success of the first one held last year at BGC. A Food Crawl for the international media was recently held, involving stops in Pampanga, Cavite and Manila.

The last question I pose is to have him name his favorite dish in the establishments he is associated with and currently in operation. I mention that I’m not asking for the bestseller, but for the particular menu item he is proudest of: “At Ping Pong Diplomacy, it would be the Not Mapo Tofu — fresh soya custard with pork two-ways and crispy leeks. For Makansutra, it’s the braised tendon with noodles, with the kuchay/shrimp dumplings! I just introduced two new dishes at Cocina Peruvia, the half-cooked tuna ceviche and the homemade chorizo — I love how the Tengs who own Cocina really import Peruvian ingredients, like the aji amarillo and aji rocoto to keep the dishes genuine. At East, I am especially proud of the Phad Thai as prior to my consulting there, it was known for its California Maki and tempura. I’m happy to have expanded that to be truly Asian, as the original concept was.”

I can’t tell you if Chef Him can sing to save his life but in a sense, via his career so far, he has created a joyous hymn to global cuisines, letting his kitchen creativity and imagination carry the tune!

Chefs Noel Mauricio and Him Uy de Baron at Ping Pong Diplomacy, their ‘take’ on spicy Chinese cuisine given an American twist.