A ‘blessing in the skies’ at The Pen’s Old Manila
July 10, 2003 | 12:00am
Several weeks ago, my wife Mary Ann and I were invited by The Peninsula Manila’s Mariano "Garch" Garchitorena to sample the new menu offerings at Old Manila, its fine dining restaurant. Joining us was artist and fellow Philippine STAR columnist Impy Pilapil.
The last time we dined there was when Impy launched her works that now adorn the walls of the then newly-renovated Old Manila two years ago. Just recently, The Pen’s posh dining outlet appointed a new chef de cuisine in the person of the British-born Adrian Mellor. So, that was a good reason to meet up again with old friends, like Impy and Garch.
However, Mary Ann couldn’t make it to our date for one reason or another. Because of a memory lapse, I forgot to notify Garch that my better half wasn’t joining us. As it turned out, it proved to be a blessing in disguise – or as some friend who goofed declared it a "blessing in the skies" – quite literally manna from heaven. But, that’s getting ahead of my story.
When I entered Old Manila, it was like seeing it for the first time. Its relaxing and contemporary look is as fresh and inviting as the first time I saw it. Impy’s exciting huge canvases, with their bold splashes of vibrant colors and outlines of Philippine churches and calesas, adorn the walls, while her signature oceanic images etched on a glass mural dominate the dining area.
Impy and Garch were deep in animated conversation by the time I arrived. The table was set for four persons. I totally forgot about my "Darleng."
"Where’s Mary Ann," asked Garch. "The chef prepared lunch for four."
"Don’t worry," I assured him. "There’s two of me anyway."
There was a menu card in front of each plate announcing a six-course Amouse Bouche lunch.
"A mouse what?" I thought it was going to be one of those exotic gastronomic adventures. I quickly texted my French-speaking friends from the nearby Hotel InterContinental, chef Cyrille Soenen and Jenny Peña, and they promptly enlightened me with the meaning of the phrase. (Oh, the wonders of modern technology!)
An Amouse Bouche menu refers to the little palate teasers or appetizers, which are a prelude to the meal (a.k.a. pica-pica, tapas, pulutan or sumsuman). It translates literally as "to amuse and excite the mouth."
Lunch consisted of six tiny dishes, all beautifully presented and simply wonderful and delicious. As it turned out, Mary Ann’s absence was my "blessing in the skies." I had to take her share and had double of everything. At first, I hesitated (Ohhh, kunyari pa!), but gladly gave in as we proceeded with lunch (Sobrang takaw!)
"Tiny portions lang naman, eh," I reasoned.
The first course was fresh seasonal oysters (imported from France), each served with a dollop of Beluga caviar. Their freshness, the caviar and the plating of rock salt and seaweeds transported me to the shores of Brittany, France, since the oysters were redolent of the sea. They were utterly superb in their simplicity.
An egg dish followed.
How many ways can one break an egg? This one bowled me over.
It was a soft-boiled egg served in half an eggshell that was just open at the tip. That’s where its being commonplace ended. Inside the eggshell was a small bit of confit of foie gras and black truffles. The rich, creamy texture of the yolk, plus the buttery taste of foie gras and the earthiness of the truffles, made it simply out of this world.
I used mine – two, actually – as a dip for the famous Old Manila’s cheese breadstick. I used the breadstick to break and stir the yolk, then took a bite off the bread. (The breadsticks are flaky, cheesy and buttery; no wonder, they’re made with croissant dough and Emmenthal cheese.) Then, when I was finished with the stick, I held the eggshell in one hand and sipped its contents bottoms up to the last drop. It was simply sublime!
For the longest time, eggs have been touted as a no-no by the cholesterol-conscious, to be avoided at all cost. However, a recent study has shown that an egg a day is actually beneficial for one’s health. Well, I’m just mentioning this egg trivia to justify my second helping of chef Mellor’s egg dynamite.
A mushroom cappuccino followed. This was really soup served in an espresso cup. Just like the coffee it was named after, the mushroom essence was intensely captured in a tiny cup topped with a froth of hot cream.
The rich cream started to get to my head. A consommé would have been much more appreciated at this point during the lunch. But, I’m not complaining, mind you. I’m having double of everything, remember?
Arefreshing salad of chilled broccoli, air-dried ham and ripe mango, dressed with a spicy balsamic vinaigrette, was next. It was topped with large shavings of Parmesan cheese. Since I liked hot food, I just loved the way the dressing was spiked with chili oil.
For main course, we had a risotto of cauliflower with pork trotters, morel mushrooms and medallions of roast rock lobsters. I passed up on the lobsters because I’m allergic to seafood. However, chef Moller did wonders with the pork trotters. It was boned and boiled to tender perfection, then served in thin slices, much like our sisig (sans the chicken liver). It complemented the cauliflower risotto excellently.
To cap the meal, we were served with a coconut sorbet sitting on a mini baba au rhum (a cake soaked in rum and syrup). It was a fitting end to our degustacion.
It was while we were having dessert that chef Mellor finally joined us. Here was the perfect host, allowing us to enjoy the meal by ourselves, letting his food speak for itself, leaving undisturbed by his presence.
Armed with years of experience in the kitchen, the 34-year-old British-born chef is set to revolutionize Old Manila by introducing a new and exciting modern European menu, while retaining the all-time favorites of its devoted regulars. He reached Philippine shores by way of Singapore, where he last served as resident chef of Les Amis, one of the island-state’s most popular international restaurants.
With such credentials, there’s now every reason to visit Old Manila. I just can’t wait what chef Mellor will do with the lowly balút once he gets settles down and imbibes the local culture.
The last time we dined there was when Impy launched her works that now adorn the walls of the then newly-renovated Old Manila two years ago. Just recently, The Pen’s posh dining outlet appointed a new chef de cuisine in the person of the British-born Adrian Mellor. So, that was a good reason to meet up again with old friends, like Impy and Garch.
However, Mary Ann couldn’t make it to our date for one reason or another. Because of a memory lapse, I forgot to notify Garch that my better half wasn’t joining us. As it turned out, it proved to be a blessing in disguise – or as some friend who goofed declared it a "blessing in the skies" – quite literally manna from heaven. But, that’s getting ahead of my story.
When I entered Old Manila, it was like seeing it for the first time. Its relaxing and contemporary look is as fresh and inviting as the first time I saw it. Impy’s exciting huge canvases, with their bold splashes of vibrant colors and outlines of Philippine churches and calesas, adorn the walls, while her signature oceanic images etched on a glass mural dominate the dining area.
Impy and Garch were deep in animated conversation by the time I arrived. The table was set for four persons. I totally forgot about my "Darleng."
"Where’s Mary Ann," asked Garch. "The chef prepared lunch for four."
"Don’t worry," I assured him. "There’s two of me anyway."
There was a menu card in front of each plate announcing a six-course Amouse Bouche lunch.
"A mouse what?" I thought it was going to be one of those exotic gastronomic adventures. I quickly texted my French-speaking friends from the nearby Hotel InterContinental, chef Cyrille Soenen and Jenny Peña, and they promptly enlightened me with the meaning of the phrase. (Oh, the wonders of modern technology!)
An Amouse Bouche menu refers to the little palate teasers or appetizers, which are a prelude to the meal (a.k.a. pica-pica, tapas, pulutan or sumsuman). It translates literally as "to amuse and excite the mouth."
Lunch consisted of six tiny dishes, all beautifully presented and simply wonderful and delicious. As it turned out, Mary Ann’s absence was my "blessing in the skies." I had to take her share and had double of everything. At first, I hesitated (Ohhh, kunyari pa!), but gladly gave in as we proceeded with lunch (Sobrang takaw!)
"Tiny portions lang naman, eh," I reasoned.
The first course was fresh seasonal oysters (imported from France), each served with a dollop of Beluga caviar. Their freshness, the caviar and the plating of rock salt and seaweeds transported me to the shores of Brittany, France, since the oysters were redolent of the sea. They were utterly superb in their simplicity.
An egg dish followed.
How many ways can one break an egg? This one bowled me over.
It was a soft-boiled egg served in half an eggshell that was just open at the tip. That’s where its being commonplace ended. Inside the eggshell was a small bit of confit of foie gras and black truffles. The rich, creamy texture of the yolk, plus the buttery taste of foie gras and the earthiness of the truffles, made it simply out of this world.
I used mine – two, actually – as a dip for the famous Old Manila’s cheese breadstick. I used the breadstick to break and stir the yolk, then took a bite off the bread. (The breadsticks are flaky, cheesy and buttery; no wonder, they’re made with croissant dough and Emmenthal cheese.) Then, when I was finished with the stick, I held the eggshell in one hand and sipped its contents bottoms up to the last drop. It was simply sublime!
For the longest time, eggs have been touted as a no-no by the cholesterol-conscious, to be avoided at all cost. However, a recent study has shown that an egg a day is actually beneficial for one’s health. Well, I’m just mentioning this egg trivia to justify my second helping of chef Mellor’s egg dynamite.
A mushroom cappuccino followed. This was really soup served in an espresso cup. Just like the coffee it was named after, the mushroom essence was intensely captured in a tiny cup topped with a froth of hot cream.
The rich cream started to get to my head. A consommé would have been much more appreciated at this point during the lunch. But, I’m not complaining, mind you. I’m having double of everything, remember?
Arefreshing salad of chilled broccoli, air-dried ham and ripe mango, dressed with a spicy balsamic vinaigrette, was next. It was topped with large shavings of Parmesan cheese. Since I liked hot food, I just loved the way the dressing was spiked with chili oil.
For main course, we had a risotto of cauliflower with pork trotters, morel mushrooms and medallions of roast rock lobsters. I passed up on the lobsters because I’m allergic to seafood. However, chef Moller did wonders with the pork trotters. It was boned and boiled to tender perfection, then served in thin slices, much like our sisig (sans the chicken liver). It complemented the cauliflower risotto excellently.
To cap the meal, we were served with a coconut sorbet sitting on a mini baba au rhum (a cake soaked in rum and syrup). It was a fitting end to our degustacion.
It was while we were having dessert that chef Mellor finally joined us. Here was the perfect host, allowing us to enjoy the meal by ourselves, letting his food speak for itself, leaving undisturbed by his presence.
Armed with years of experience in the kitchen, the 34-year-old British-born chef is set to revolutionize Old Manila by introducing a new and exciting modern European menu, while retaining the all-time favorites of its devoted regulars. He reached Philippine shores by way of Singapore, where he last served as resident chef of Les Amis, one of the island-state’s most popular international restaurants.
With such credentials, there’s now every reason to visit Old Manila. I just can’t wait what chef Mellor will do with the lowly balút once he gets settles down and imbibes the local culture.
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