Charmed by Hoi An
Home to a UNESCO Heritage Site, quick bespoke fashion, flavorful Vietnamese cuisine, and scenery frozen in time, here’s why you should come to Central Vietnam.
The dynamic capital Ho Chi Minh and cultural destination Hanoi are top of mind when tourists think of Vietnam, but on the packed Saturday direct flight to Da Nang via Cebu Pacific, travelers of all ages are excited to go to Hoi An.
On one side is an exceptionally well-preserved traditional Asian trading port lined with structures in the architectural style of the 19th and 20th centuries. On the other are sprawling rice paddy fields. And on the far end, only 15 minutes away by scooter, is powdery golden sand, stretching as far as the eye can see. All day long in the East Sea, fishermen still sail their traditional boats for their catch of the day.
It feels like you’ve jumped into the past, but not quite. Tradition and heritage continues into the present way of life in Hoi An. In Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An the only five-star rated property in the area by the Forbes Travel Guide 2024, this sense of place is at its center.
The 35-hectare property consists of six horseshoe-shaped enclaves, all beachfront villas facing the East Sea and its misty sunrise over Cham Islands. With three world-class restaurants, a spa on a lotus lagoon, three cascading pools gazing out at the serene horizon, tropical modern aesthetic letting the outdoors in by architect Reda Amalou, its own organic garden, Instagrammable experiences like an in-pool breakfast at your villa, and even its own temple (fishermen of the village still pray and make offerings here to this day), you might not want to leave. It’s a favorite last stop for travelers making their way through Vietnam — like saving the best for last. But it can also be a first stop for a cultural trip as a portal to three nearby UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Hoi An Ancient Town, the Imperial City of Hue, and My Son Sanctuary, all only a few minutes away. But let’s get back to Hoi An.
Bespoke in 24 hours
Rediscovered by the TikTok generation for reasonably priced made-to-order clothes, done and ready to wear in 24 hours — which explains the Jacquemus Bomba dress dupes seconding only the ao dai in every boutique — but some tailors create with their distinct design DNA in every piece. Yaly Couture is a favorite for those who truly want something unique and show-stopping, housed in a picturesque building. They specialize in silk pieces for men and women and even weave their own textiles. For summer, they are blending silk with linen for an easy-breezy feel.
None of this is new. Hoi An was an essential stop in the Silk Road partly because of its textile heritage — and it’s still developing. The French photographer Réhahn, known for “capturing souls” in his portraiture, documents the clothes that make his subjects in his museum Precious Heritage, where two shophouses contain soul-stirring portraits with attire worn by Vietnam’s 54 ethnic tribes, every detail as authentic as possible — from hemp denim shirt dresses and French coins in traditional dress to the hairs of one’s ancestors from every generation, woven into one’s own.
Even jewelry fans will delight in filigree silver jewelry and lacquered enamel accessories crafted by artisans. Silversmithing in Hoi An has been passed on from generation to generation since the 15th century. Traditional techniques like engraving and filigree live on as younger artisans take these techniques and turn them into statement pieces. Meanwhile, Vietnamese lacquered enamel is so good that fashion houses like Hermes commission local artisans to make their enamel pieces. Hoi An’s craftsmen then wrap them in the local calf leather; a sturdy yet supple counterpart.
More than pho
The go-to bowl of noodles here could easily be mistaken for the Japanese udon, but the thick noodles in cao l?u are smokier, springier, owing its texture to a specific local rice, at times mixed with charcoal, then tossed in char siu, fresh greens, croutons and a savory sauce with broth.
Indian and Thai influences show up in flavor and presentation in their most common dishes. Compared to Hoi An’s neighbors, more intense spices like turmeric feature prominently in their dishes, like in mì Qu?ng (wide rice noodles in rich meat broth enriched with turmeric typically topped with shrimp), and Hoi An-style chicken rice (where the bright yellow turmeric rice is meant to be tossed with sauces and the shredded chicken and veggies surrounding it). The Nam Hai iced coffee is the perfect sweet ending to perhaps the most flavorful dishes in their cuisine.
You don’t have to be a foodie to delight in Vespa Adventures, who have partnered up with the Four Seasons to give you an unforgettable food tour. Think riding at sunset past paddy fields into the winding alleyways of Hoi An, off the beaten tourist path for best-kept-secrets like the original White Rose dumplings (you can attempt to roll one), banh xeo as the locals like it, scrumptious snail cooked in dozens of ways, leading up to a ride along the lantern-lit Thu B?n River where you can make a wish on a paper lantern and send it floating, finished off by the best shaved ice stall in the night market.
The quality of the local cuisine, from market hawkers to starred restaurants, inspired Spanish-born chef Alex Moranda. His omakase is as eclectic as his life and culinary experience. The son of a flamenco singer who flew to Tokyo for love followed his taste buds around the world, from eating birrias in Panama to whipping up extraordinary feasts for the rich and famous like the designer Philip Plein in Saint Tropez, then Los Angeles. Now in the Four Seasons Nam Hai’s Japanese restaurant Nayuu, he serves Chef Edomae-style nigiri sushi in favorites like toro, uni, jellyfish, and exciting catch like fugu, each bite more delicious than the last, rounded up by a comparison of Japanese and Korean grill techniques with their prime cuts to match. Pair them with the restaurant’s sparkling sake and end the night with a stroll, taking in the cool East Sea breeze.
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Visit www.fourseasons.com/hoian/ for more information. To go to Hoi An, Cebu Pacific flies direct from Manila to Da Nang every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
