To fast or not to fast? I abstain!

During the homily of the Ash Wednesday Mass some weeks ago, the priest expounded on what was expected of us Catholics at Holy Week. Naturally, first and foremost was the issue of abstaining (mainly from meat) and fasting. Though it is only on Ash Wednesday and Good Friday that we are obliged to abstain from eating meat, it is nevertheless suggested that we make voluntary "sacrifices" during the 40 days of Lent.

Over dinner with a group of foodies not long after that day, there was a lively discussion of – what else but – food. Well, at least food during Lent. What was intriguing was our different views on what constitutes abstaining and fasting.

The dictionary defines abstinence as the voluntary self-denial especially from indulgence of a craving or from eating some foods; and fasting as the curtailment of one’s food intake or having to eat sparingly. Though we are traditionally required to give up meat during these two prescribed days, what about those who are vegans or do not eat meat in the first place?

This "self-denial" could very well include liquor, coffee, soft drinks, cigarette smoking, sex, etc., or just about any luxury we normally wouldn’t live without. Just as my brother Abong promised with a twinkle in his eyes: He would give up his wife Corito only on these two days of the year.

Our brand of Catholicism stemmed from our nearly 400 years under Spain, which left indelible traces of its cultural and culinary traditions. And, may I add, we could be more Catholics than them. Mas papista que il Papa! (that is, the flagellants and nailing on the cross in San Fernando, Pampanga on Good Friday). For centuries in Spain, the annual prohibition against eating meat during Lent spawned costly recipes for fish and seafood accessible only to the nobility and high-ranking clergy. Foremost of these dishes was bacalao or salted codfish (see "Bacalao: Gastronomic Superstar," published in this section on October 30, 2002, by the same author). Originally a poor man’s dish, it has now become a year-round luxury food and is offered as a house specialty even in the best known and most expensive restaurants.

True, bacalao has long been a traditional Lenten dish, but with its prohibitive price (P853/kilo at Santi’s for the dried salted, P1,350/kilo at Terry’s with bones, and a whopping P1,800/kilo for boneless lomo), does one really make a sacrifice by abstaining from eating meat while indulging in such expensive substitute? Going meatless need not be painful (to our pockets also.) All one has to do is be creative.

There lies my contention: Is it the literal meat we have to abstain from or the symbolic meat (of the flesh, euphemism for sex). Well, does abstaining from coffee and Coke, which my wife Mary Ann can’t live without, for 40 days constitute an offering if one would drink instead tea and Sprite (which she hates)? Or does having tuyo (dried fish) daily for 40 days, which she loves and could subsist on year-round anyway instead of meat be called the "supreme sacrifice"?

My sister-in-law, who is under much stress lately – itself already a sacrifice – has decided not to make any food sacrifices this year. Her reason, which I think makes sense, is she wants to enjoy all the things she likes and probably more at this time, or else she might just go bananas. To make sacrifices or not during Lent has always been a perennial question among Catholics. But one priest during Mass said in his homily, "Sacrifices and burnt offerings don’t make any sense if we do not know how to live like true Christians, and that is truly loving one another." I love my wife, quirks and all, and that’s an year-round sacrifice for me. On the other hand, she also professes her undying love for me, even though I eat too fast for her pace, which I consider to be my own kind of fasting. We all have our own crosses to bear. Amen.

Here are some painless recipes for those meatless days.

Paksiw Na Bilong-Bilong

(Salted moonfish, sold in bottles in some supermarkets)

Saute in a frying pan a handful of garlic chips with 2 Tbsps. olive oil. Do not brown. Add the bilong-bilong, drained of its brine. Pour 1 cup sukang puti (white vinegar) and let simmer over low heat until vinegar is reduced to half. Add 1 piece siling labuyo (optional).

Serve with garlic fried rice and an over-easy fried egg. Me thinks this is one of life’s simple yet greatest pleasure.

Tuna Salad
(This is an adaptation of Salad Niçoise, but in a simpler version.)
1 canned tuna flakes in oil (I personally prefer the spicy one)
1/4 cup kalamansi juice
salt and pepper to taste
1 head romaine lettuce, washed and cut to bite-size
6 pcs. plum (native) tomatoes, cut in wedges with seeds removed
1 medium-size white onion, peeled and cut to wedges

In a large salad bowl, mix the tuna, kalamansi juice, salt, pepper, and onion. Toss in the lettuce and tomatoes and mix well.

Tomato Salsa
Fresh plum tomatoes, chopped
White onion, peeled and chopped finely
bunch of wonsuy or cilantro, minced
2 Tbsp. bihod (bottled salted fish roe)

Mix all the above ingredients and serve as accompaniment for any fried fish (like tilapia or bangus).

Salted Fish Fried Rice (One-Dish Meal)
5 cups cold cooked rice (Sprinkle some water on it and mash with the hands to loosen the grains.)
2 Tbsps. olive or peanut oil
1 Tbsp. garlic, minced
2 fresh eggs, beaten
Any of the following salted fish, peeled and shredded: tuyo, bilong-bilong, danggit, calcag (dried shrimps), tinapa (smoked fish)

For garnishing:
some tomatoes, seeded and cut into wedges
some lettuce, cut into strips.

Sauté garlic in a frying pan and add the shredded salted fish. When lightly brown, add the beaten egg. Cook until the egg is done, much like a scrambled egg. Add the rice and mix well with the egg. Keep mixing for about 5 minutes. Just before serving, add the lettuce and tomatoes.