A week in paradise
The rainy season is here. This wet weather has made me wish summer had not ended, despite the fact that it was a real hot and mosquito-infested summer. I do remember when I was in grade school that this was the time of year we all went reluctantly back to face the dreaded, “What I did For Summer” essay we were all forced to write.
If I were still in school today, I’d have no problem with this year’s essay. This summer I escaped the grimy heavy heat of Manila for the languid tropical sun of Palawan. It was no ordinary island destination that I, my wife Twink, youngest son, and 14 other intrepid travelers flew off to. Our address for five glorious days — Ariara island in the Calamian cluster of northern Palawan.
Twink spotted the resort after trolling the Internet for the best island getaway..she was timing this for a special birthday. It had to be an exclusive destination where she would celebrate with us and a few close friends. She found the perfect choice in Ariara, which appeared to be a change from our previous annual vacations to spots like Siargao, Camiguin and Bali. Ariara is a private estate resort. It is not your regular hundred-room facility on a crowded beach shared with a dozen more of the same kind. It also sits on its own 40-hectare island, with no other resort for tens of kilometers around. What can beat that?
The resort had made waves. Last year British Vogue cited Ariara as No.1 in its “100 Best Holidays ... the most fashionable places to stay in the world.” The Times magazine of London listed the resort in its special on “The most glamorous places in the world” with Ariara highlighted as the “Best Private Island.” The resort was also on Conde Nast Traveller’s Gold List of 2012 and a slew of other international publications. The decision was made, we were going.
The planning took a year and a half, since Twink had to round up at least seven more couples for the trip. Ariara has a limit of 18 people. It boasts two “Jungle” villas and four beach cottages, along with a spacious suite above its main pavilion. Once the list was complete, off we went.
The flight from Manila to Busuanga was short. We were met by Florian Mueller, island manager of Ariara. He took us to Coron port to board the Ariara Yacht. Yes, we traveled in style on the resort’s 45-foot catamaran. I was tired from the day before so I slept most of the way in one of the yacht’s three air-conditioned bedrooms. The rest of the gang were on deck enjoying a long lunch and drinks.
The island is a distance from Coron but it did not disappoint when we arrived. The whole staff led by general manager Jim Williams greeted us on the single long pier that led to the resort. There was no waiting for long check-ins...most of the group headed straight for the water or ate a late lunch at the airy central pavilion.
The resort was designed by a friend, the talented Filipino architect, George Yulo. George either designs singularly unique restaurants like he does for Gaita Fores, or singularly unique resorts like this. His approach is practical yet refined. Ariara exudes a contemporary Asian vibe but is modern in its conceptual and actual framing.
We stayed in one of the jungle villas on stilts, a take on the traditional bahay kubo. The bedrooms and baths are upstairs while below is an open space with hammocks and lounges. There is a separate studio in the upper level with its own bath for a third guest. The allocations of spaces was generous and flowed easily from the outdoors to inside...and out again, with a tub cantilevered over the lush landscape below.
All the other four cottages and the other jungle villa had unique floor plans with opportunities for lanais, terraces, outdoor showers and baths. All the villas and cottages were infused with natural light via expansive windows that provided everyone with a view of the beach or water.
The orientation of the resort was eastward, so every evening for the next five days, we were treated to fantastic sunsets of varying hues. No sunset seemed to be ever alike due to changing cloud formations or maybe to the fact that we were getting acclimated to the pollution-free air and the wonderful food.
Meals were events in themselves at the resort. They programmed our menus before we arrived. It ran the gamut from Italian, to middle-eastern, Filipino and Asian fusion. Venues changed almost every meal, with cocktails changing location every evening at different spots along the beach front or around the infinity-edge pool. Juancho, our son, who is a picky eater, had gourmet cheese pizza or cheeseburgers specially made for him.
With 17 people in our private entourage there were different inclinations to activities offered by the resort. I was happy to vegetate on a hammock but we did have group outing to neighboring islands for spelunking, fishing and diving. I did the cave thing but it has been a while since I scuba dived, so I snorkelled instead. The house reef was wonderful. Twink and the others saw sea turtles, reef shark and rays.
We also got to explore the island, with two routes on successive days that took us around or over the top of the island. The treks were challenging and made for good exercise. Other types of treks are available on water, with jet skis, Hobie cat, kayak, or paddle board. For those inclined you can cruise around neighboring islands including El Nido, and even arrange for a live on-board dive trip to Tubattaha Reef!
What I enjoyed most was lazing around or in the warm pool right next to the lounge pavilion. Staff just kept bringing us refreshments of fresh buko and home-baked tropical fruit pastries. I also went out almost everyday, with one of the other guys in the entourage, to fly our remotely controlled unmanned aerial vehicles (drones to you). We flew and took shots of the island and the resort from up to a hundred meters above.
Time flew fast and we reached the final night. Our celebrations on the trip included Twink’s birthday along with that of trip mate David Charlton (of David’s Salon). We had a luau on the beach feasting on lechon and lobster. A good time was had by all.
Our summer week in paradise ended all to quickly. The trip back to Coron involved some side trips to lagoons and other scenic spots, of which Palawan has an embarrassment of riches. The resort stay has a price, but it's not just for the rich and famous. It’s well worth the price, if you’re looking to live out a fantasy of a retreat on your very own island.
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Feedback is welcome. Please email the writer at paulo.alcazaren@gmail.com. For more on Ariara log on to www.ariaraisland.com.
