My great Italian eat-scape

I have always secretly thought so, but never openly said it: I think I may have been Italian in a past life. Yes, yes, I’ve lived in France for almost six years, I speak the language like it was my own and have fallen in love with all things French. But my French affair is actually because of a small twist of fate: I wanted to study Italian in school but they didn’t offer it, so at the age of 12, by default, I learned French.

Something different: The wild mushroom risotto with black truffle sauce

More than anything, however, my style of cooking, passion for food and cravings are quite close to Italy. I have a great respect for its ingredients and like to make things that highlight quality — simple and rustic dishes that are full of heart and soul. I secretly imagine myself retiring in a small fishing village off the coast of Italy, having a tiny restaurant where I can cook to my heart’s content the best produce bought directly from the market that same morning. Oh, and I would only serve people I like, and if I don’t like your face or attitude or if you ask me for ketchup to eat your Tagliata di Manzo with, I could just dump your plate on your head and ask you to leave.

I want to be that nonna that makes amazing ragus, stews that can cure any colds and buttery tarts to chase away any tears. However, the latter will probably remain a fantasy for, as you all know, I’m more likely to produce charred carbon out of the oven that will send you straight to the oncologist.

I admire the simplicity of Italian plating. Generous portions, the beauty emanating from the richness of the colors to the chef’s palate of basil leaves, ruby tomatoes, caramelized garlic, sunny lemons… There’s always a sense of familiarity to Italian cuisine: so simple yet so tricky. Because of its pureness, things can go horribly wrong if the technique and produce are less than perfect.

Here is the grand paradox: there are so many Italian restaurants but so few good ones. It seems easy yet things can fall way off the mark. For those who remember my ranting about the capricious Caprese salad, only three key ingredients are necessary — mozzarella, tomatoes and basil — and yet so often it can be one of the most miserable dishes I’ve ever experienced.

Sweet endings: Strawberry Nutella pizza

Not too long ago an old classic underwent reincarnation: L’Incontro was bought by a friend of mine, Tina Pamintuan. I vaguely remember the restaurant’s past life, only that it was decent and somewhat authentic Italian food in a very kitschy environment. Old Chianti bottles hung from every space of the wall possible, backed by posters and photos of Italy that were a throwback to the early ‘90s, somewhat pale and faded. There was a rustic charm to the large space, but overall, those dizzying bottles had to go.

Now, I’m not saying this because we’re friends, because I have been known to give straightforward criticism, especially to people I love, and no one messes with my food, but L’Incontro is one of the few places in town that gives you honest Italian food. No fancy fusion stuff, the menu is direct and to the point, with fabulous classics that have stood the test of time.

Let me start off with the Caprese salad. Calypso to my Odysseus, it can be both lover or nemesis. Their Caprese salad is made with generous portions of mozzarella di bufala, beautifully red tomatoes, fresh impeccable pieces of basil and olive oil. Simple, no fancy drizzles of balsamico, just plain good. To share with friends, try their Parmesan and asparagus fondue. A mix of fondant asparagus with a little bit of crunchy fresh ones that give a nice contrasting bite. There’s a delicious wisp of white truffle that brings it all together. When I’m craving something hearty and utterly rich, I’ll take their lamb lasagna: a perfectly portioned plate rich in creamy béchamel, Parmesan and mozzarella… the ragu is flavorful and the pasta is firm, not soggy. My mouth is watering just thinking of it. There is a slightly delicious torture as the waiter puts it in front of you, bubbling from the oven… you want to dig in like Garfield saying “Banzaaai!” but you can’t. You must be patient lest you burn your poor taste buds.

Another personal favorite is the pizza four cheese and arugula. So basic and beautiful. No mounds of electric yellow cheese-every-kind-of-meat-and-junkfood-we-find toppings here. It’s thin and crisp pizza with four cheeses and delicate leaves of fresh arugula sitting prettily on top. Oh, and guess what? They have a panizza version where you roll it all up and dip into a delicious pomodoro or pesto oil. Wild mushroom risotto with black truffle… Risotto that is al dente like it should be, not a mushy bowl of rice, but wondrously textured bites of earthy goodness. Still hungry? Order the fluffiest homemade potato gnocchi, perfect for the indecisive because it comes in three sauces, tomato, pesto and gorgonzola… all in one bowl! If you see Tina, ask her to make you the squid ink pasta with stewed tomatoes, olives and baby octopus. It is divine. It’ll send you straight to the Amalfi coast where you can visit me in my retirement restaurant.

Grill it right: Grilled tuna Floretina with pasta prosciutto, salami, tomatoes and goat cheese sandwich

Last but not least, the cheesecake is totally to die for. I don’t have a sweet tooth but this white chocolate concoction is heavenly clouds on my plate. Worth every bit of all the sinful carbo-loading calories you can pack on eating this.

Throw away your diet, take a nice, long lunch drizzled with olive oil and perhaps a glass of wine. Yes, have wine at lunch and escape the hectic schedule of everyday life.  Or come over for dinner with friends, order whatever flashes at you from the menu and share, while you clink glasses and celebrate life, just because. Have an aperitif, some wine and a digestif, go all the way, let time tick slowly away and soak in all the modern, rustic goodness L’Incontro has to offer. No pretense, just amazingly honest Italian food. Your stomach will thank you for it.

And P.S., it pays to have friends, because for one week starting Nov. 11, when you order from the all-day lunch menu and mention “Feast with Me,” “Stephanie’s column” or “Philippine Star,” you can get a free panizza!

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L’Incontro is at 207 Nicanor Garcia Street, formerly Reposo, Makati City. Tel: 899-0638 or 899-0642.

You can contact me at Stephanie_zubiri@yahoo.fr.