Spotting clocks and castles in Prague

Prague has been used as the setting for a slew of movies including Tom Cruise’s Mission: Impossible, Vin Diesel’s Triple X, Amadeus and Bourne Identity just to name a few. This would lead one to ponder why filmmakers repeatedly flock to this "Golden City of a Hundred Spires." Left relatively unscathed during World War II, the "Florence of Eastern Europe" – or better yet, the more politically correct "Central Europe" – is one of the few cities left that still possess Old World charm without the corruption of modern commercialism.

When first planning our trip to the Czech capital, I felt that calling this Bohemian city of 1.2 million people the "Florence of Central Europe" was largely an exaggeration. After all, how could this city – which I envisioned as just another former communist capital – come close to unarguably one of the most beautiful in the world? I figured the similarities would end at the Arno River and Vltava River dividing Florence and Prague respectively.

Needless to say, I was very wrong. By the time we were on our way to Vienna after four days in Praha, I was starting to wonder if Florence shouldn’t be called the "Prague of Western Europe."

Tourist Basics

The Czech Republic’s $35 billion tourism industry and expected entry into the European Union sometime this year (thus doing away with the Czech crown – about 30 Kc per US$1) makes Prague an extremely "tourist friendly" city. Ruzyne International Airport, about 10 kilometers northwest of the city center, is surprisingly modern and the city boasts a wide array of restaurants and hotels (including a Four Seasons Hotel) without having the rates of their Western European neighbors like Vienna and Munich…at least not yet.

The only real problem for tourists is the city’s notoriously unscrupulous taxi drivers. It would be wise to agree on a price before you leave the airport on your way to your hotel. It might be expensive but at least you know how much you will spend. The good news is that although we were in Prague for four days ( because we drove out to Vienna after our stay), the only time we ever rode a taxi was from the airport to our hotel. The city is relatively small and although it is not the painting or sculptural haven that Florence is, it is an architectural paradise that features a plethora of Gothic, Romanesque, Rococo, Cubist and Art Nouveau buildings. That means that the best way to experience the city is to walk…and walk…and walk some more.

History

As early as 4000 B.C., farming communities were established along the Vltava River (also known by its German name Moldau) by Germanic and Celtic tribes. The Slavs from Eastern Europe eventually took over in the 5th and 6th centuries holding on to the land until the Great Moravian Empire, which introduced Christianity, conquered it sometime in the 9th century. The "Good King Wenceslas" of Christmas carol fame made Christianity the state religion of Bohemia in the 930s. However, it was only in the 14th century under Charles IV that Prague experienced its first architectural Golden Age. Great edifices such as the Charles University (the first university in Central Europe), Charles Bridge and St. Vitus Cathederal were built. Eventually, Prague became the capital of the Bohemian Kingdom and the Holy Roman Empire.

After graduation from Charles University in 1390, Jan Hus – a Christian reformer born to a poor Bohemian family in 1372 – rallied popular support for a movement to reform the Church. Under the influence of English philosopher John Wycliffe, whose works were found heretic by the Church, he preached at the Bethlehem Chapel and was eventually burned at the stake in 1415 for heresy. His execution incited a nationalist rebellion leading to the defenestration of several Catholic officials from the upper floors of Prague’s New Town Hall. Jan Hus became a martyr and now his statue occupies the center of Prague’s Old Town Square.

In 1526, the Catholic Hapsburgs of Austria rose to the Bohemian throne and ruled over the Czech Republic until World War I erupted. During the war, neither the Czechs nor the neighboring Slovaks wanted to fight for their occupiers – the Austrians and Germans, respectively. They consequently approached US President Woodrow Wilson, who was trying to lobby support for his League of Nations, to help with their dream of independence. By the end of the war in 1918, Czechoslovakia became an independent nation with Prague as its capital.

Armed with its newfound, albeit short-lived, independence, Czechoslovakia fell to Nazi Germany in 1939. During this time of occupation, Prague’s Jewish population (consisting of approximately 120,000 Jews) was essentially wiped out. On May 5, 1945, as the Russian army closed from the east, the Czechs successfully rose against the Germans leading to independence and the 1946 elections in which the communists became the dominant party. Nineteen Forty-Eight brought the elimination of the multi-party system with the help of a Soviet coup d’etat as the communist party held on to power until the Berlin wall came down in November 1989. On January 1, 1993, irreconcilable differences between the country’s leaders split the country into the Czech and Slovak Republics with Vaclav Havel becoming the first President and Prague becoming the capital of the independent Czech Republic.

In August 2002, Prague experienced the worst floods in almost two centuries. With 16 fatalities, 30,000 homeless and hundreds of thousands forced to evacuate, water levels approached 31 feet and the damage to the city was in excess of $2.5 billion. Perhaps the only silver lining in the 2002 flood was the protection of Old Town by an aluminum flood barrier. Combined with the century old embankments along the Vltava built by townspeople as a result of the Flood of 1890, Old Town was largely untouched as flood in that area would have resulted in a cultural disaster on top of what was already a devastating catastrophe.

Old Town Square

Fortunately undamaged by the 2002 flood, this 1.7 hectare square has been the heart of Prague since the 10th century. Cafés, stores, government buildings, churches and memorials surround the statue of Jan Hus in this square which is the not only inundated with hawkers and performers but is often the site for political rallies and outdoor concerts as well. Among the many points of interest to be found around the square are Old Town Hall, the Astronomical Clock, the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn and the Charles Bridge which is a mere five-minute walk away.

Old Town Hall

The Old Town Hall building was constructed in 1338, when King John of Luxembourg granted the city a royal charter. Originally consisting of just a single building and a 69-meter tower, which is open to the public, the Old Town Hall has gradually expanded with the government’s purchases of the adjacent buildings. In 1945, part of Old Town Hall was burned by the Nazis allegedly because a soldier firing a bazooka into the square accidentally set fire to some drapes behind him. Today, Old Town Hall consists of a row of colorful Gothic and Renaissance period houses that look disjointed from the outside but are in fact connected on the inside.

The Church Of Our Lady Before Tyn

The construction of the Tyn Church began in the middle of the 14th century and was finished in 1511. Oddly hidden behind a four-storey structure built in front of it, the church is reputed to be the inspiration used for Cinderella’s castle in Disneyland.

The Astronomical Clock

Constructed in 1410 by Mikulas of Kadan and Jan Ondrejuv, the Astronomical Clock continuously provides a full range of astronomical data – most of which laypeople like us have no hope of ever understanding. More interesting is that aside from its obvious magnificence, Death – a statue added in the 17th century – inverts his hourglass and rings the clock every hour. The twelve Apostles then walk past two open windows and a rooster crows just before the clock strikes. Amazingly, with its multitude of incomprehensible hands and dials, the Astronomical Clock does tell the time.

The Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is the center of any visit to Prague. Construction of the 520- meter long, 10-meter wide bridge spanning the Vltava River was commenced in 1357 by King Charles IV’s favorite architect Peter Parler, but was only finished in the 15th century finally replacing the old stone Judith Bridge, which in turn replaced a wooden bridge constructed in the middle ages. On each of its two ends sit similar towers: The Lesser Town Bridge Tower on the west bank (built in the 12th century and originally part of the Judith Bridge) and the taller Old Town Bridge Tower on the east bank (built in the 15th century as an imitation of the Lesser Town Bridge tower). Originally designed for knight tournaments, the bridge’s only decoration at that time was a simple crucifix. Later, the Catholization of Prague resulted in the addition of 29 more statues during the 17th to 19th centuries. Because the statues were made from soft sandstone, however, a number of them have been destroyed while others that were damaged have been moved to museums. What stands in their stead are replacements all of which were done in the 20th century.

The most interesting of the statues are also the two oldest ones: the crucifix with a Hebrew inscription (1657) and that of St. John Nepomuk (1683).

The Hebrew inscription on the crucifix at Charles Bridge reads "Holy, Holy, Holy is our Lord of the multitude" from the prophet Isiah. It represented a Jewish expression of faith and was intended to humiliate Prague’s Jewish community because a Jew – Elias Backoffen – allegedly disrespected the cross and was found guilty of blasphemy. This was later found to be false and a plaque at the base of the cross was installed explaining the error.

The other statue of interest is that of St. John Nepomuk. Legend has it that John Nepomuk was a priest under Wenceslas IV and confessor to his queen. Wenceslas, being a suspicious and jealous man, asked him to divulge the confessions of the queen, which he believed were about some alleged affair. He refused. As punishment, the King placed him in a suit of armor and threw him over the bridge. The ring of golden stars around his head represents the halo that supposedly appeared over his head as he floated downriver. Of course one can’t help but note that if he was wearing a suit of armor, I doubt he would "float downriver."

Prague Castle

Founded over one thousand years ago as the seat of Bohemian government, Prazsky Hrad stands on a hill overlooking the city of Prague. Of most important note among the castle’s many structures is St. Vitus Cathedral.

Replacing an old basilica, construction of the cathedral with its 97- meter high steeple began in 1344 by architect Mathieu d’Arras in the French Gothic style under the direction of Emperor Charles IV. D’Arras who died eight years later managed to only finish the apse, so work was continued by German Peter Parler – the same architect who designed the Charles Bridge. With construction being interrupted in the 15th century by the Hussite revolution, St. Vitus was only completed in 1929 – almost six centuries after it was first begun.

The 33-meter high main hall, which is lined with stained glass windows designed by Czech painter Alfons Mucha, houses numerous sites of note. Among these are the silver crypt of St. John Nepomuk and the chapel of St. Wenceslas. Those who brave the ascent to the top of the church tower, the tallest in Prague, are rewarded with a sweeping view of the city. Unfortunately, the uphill walk to the castle was strenuous for us so we chose to skip the tower climb.

On the eastern side of the castle is a row of small colorfully painted miniature buildings known as Golden Lane. Built in the 16th century as the barracks for the sharpshooters of the castle guard, they later became the home for craftsmen, artists and alchemists. The houses on this cobblestone street are now full of shops selling all kinds of trinkets and souvenirs for tourists and visitors of the castle.

Church Of Our Lady Victorious

This relatively simple church built in 1613 houses what to me was the highlight of Prague – the Sto. Nino de Praga. Brought from Spain in 1628 by Polyxena, the daughter of a Spanish duchess who donated the statue to the Carmelites, this world famous image of the Baby Jesus (which needs no introduction to Filipinos) is credited for the protection of Prague from the Plague and saving the city from destruction during the Thirty Years’ War. The altar, on which the Sto. Niño rests, was designed by Frantisek Lauermann and the sculpture of God the Father in the upper part of the altar and those of St. Joseph and the Virgin Mary were carved by Petr Prachner. There are also 20 little gold angels that surround the Sto. Niño by the Packeni family of goldsmiths.

Shopping And Eating

Although most major international chains are present in Prague, I don’t think one would really go to Prague to go shopping except for the requisite souvenir and Bohemian crystal. Czech artisans are world famous for their work with glass, which are among the best in the world. The most exclusive stores for Bohemian glass are Moser (a real haven for Japanese tourists) and Rott Crystal, which is housed in a four-storey Renaissance building. Because the glasswork is equally impressive as it is intricate, the stores are worth a look, even if you are not going to buy anything.

Traditional Czech cuisine consists largely of pork with dumplings, sauerkraut, potato and rice with heavy sauces all of which are to be washed down with world famous Czech beer. Do not eat Czech food and expect to maintain your diet, as I doubt they understand what the words "low-fat" mean. Needless to say the food is hearty and filling.

The two best restaurants we were fortunate enough to try were La Veranda (for reviews, check out www.praguepost.com/P03/2002/Art/1204/restview.php and www.prague-tribune.cz/2003/2/19.htm) and the celebrity frequented Kampa Park where the food was very good although the service was nothing to write home about.

Postscript

So is it worth the trip? Absolutely. The only detriment might be the location of the Czech Republic, which is not exactly beside France, Spain or Italy where most people would prefer to go.

However, after flying into Prague via Paris, we hired Mike’s Chauffeur Service to drive us to Vienna (about a three-hour drive) where we spent the night and then to Venice (about a six-hour drive) the next day. The trip was lengthy but manageable as we didn’t have to drive and best of all we were able to see Vienna even if it was only for a day. From Venice it was easy to work our way back to Paris.

Still not convinced to take the trip? Want to see some moving pictures? Go watch Triple X. The movie is more than just a big bald guy beating up the bad guys with bad dialogue. It has some truly breathtaking views of Prague. Either that or you can fall asleep watching Amadeus.