Fashion 2008: Time for the big, the bold & artful weirdness
How to accessorize the dreamy, floaty looks for 2008? Choices abound, with many reaching a new level of artful weirdness particularly in the shoe category where influences range from Art Nouveau to the surreal. Bags remain on the large side but tiny frame bags and clutches are also a big story. The airy outfits need something to weigh them down, so belts are important to complete the look, from simple leather cords to elaborate ones with semi-precious stones. Jewelry pieces are big and bold, from chokers with big star charms to bibs of turquoise nuggets.
Shoes
Shoes are still sky-high and attention-grabbing, but less for chunkiness than for artfulness, which makes “The Eccentric Heel” the covetable shoe for the season. Prada leads the pack with their multicolored Art Nouveau heels of carved flora accented with suede petals. Marc Jacobs goes surreal with a misplaced heel that was part Dali and part Dada while Miu Miu’s heels are silver candlesticks and teacup handles! Heels are caged at Balenciaga and Fendi and have diamond harlequin patterns at Viktor & Rolf. Although platforms and chunky heels remain popular, a sleeker alternative is the stiletto such as Gucci’s must-have secretary stiletto and patent stiletto bootie. Louis Vuitton also has sleek patent stilettos in pastel colors with geometric accents. For a less precarious alternative, wedges have been reinvented in many ways, from braided leather at Botega Veneta to studs at Sergio Rossi.
Bags
With full skirts, you may gravitate towards bigger bags to keep the proportions right. That’s why Fendi has reissued the baguette in larger sizes and its envelope clutch which can practically fit a laptop is touted as hot news for the coming season. But there are also small frame bags and clutches as an option. Exotic skins are still around, some with multicolor variations. Many clutches are decorated with beads, feathers and other interesting details. The art fever in clothes has infected bags with many handpainted looks. The hot Louis Vuitton line by artist Richard Prince sports his signature airbrush technique with jokes overprinted on totes. There’s a punk edge to some like Alexander McQueen’s black bag with a giant safety pin and Tod’s turquoise snakeskin clutch with multizipper details. Candy colors abound, particularly at Marc Jacobs where they come with gilded frog handles.
Belts
A simple toga somehow calls for a sash or a belt especially for evening to dress it up. A good option is a Fendi type with modernist geometric patterns with semiprecious stones, wood and exotic skin combinations. There are also bold, leather ones like Gucci’s black and white patent. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz keeps it simple with a silver cord in antique finish since his multipleated wrap has enough drama with the folds. Alessandro Dell’Acqua has color blocked looks which he punctuates with obi sashes which are quite versatile and will go with many ensembles.
Eyewear
Sunglasses are still on oversize glamour mode, from ’70s Easy Rider styles to over the top Disco Love God, although designers like Dries Van Noten and Marni offer smaller alternatives. The aviator has morphed from its classic style and proportion and comes in racy silver frames at Michael Kors and khaki with bright color side accents at Marni. There are also plays on classic ovals, rounded squares and frames following the contour of the face. White frames from last season are still around but there are new bold colors like vibrant red, lime and blue.
Jewelry
Again, like bags, tiny jewelry will disappear when worn with the voluminous dresses. So necklaces have reached breast-plate proportions at Alessandro Dell’Acqua where turquoise nuggets practically fill the torso of a toga. Chunky enamel and crystal pendants do the work at Lanvin and modernist gold chokers complement the cocktail dresses at Michael Kors. So many stars adorn the neck at YSL. To ride the art nouveau trend, Van Der Straeten’s sleek organic gold necklaces are good investment pieces. The neck can be kept bare in favor of statement earrings. Tom Binns has cool crystal waterfalls “vandalized” with vermillion and black graffiti. You also cannot do without a statement cuff like Nina Ricci’s wing cuff or Tom Binn’s handpainted neon and crystal cuff.
Hats
The most spectacular are Philip Treacy’s hats for Alexander McQueen, from one made of a multitude of butterflies to sculptural ribbons of DNA and plumed marvels. John Galliano has reworked ’40s glamour hats as well as sequined ’20s flapper skull caps. Marni goes quirky with conical petal hats while Junya Watanabe does a rakish tomboy look with classic panama fedoras worn over a wig of mirrored mosaic.
