Turning pineapple sneakers into wearable art

In 2021, couple Michael and Banj Claparols founded Lakat, a local sneaker brand that turns sustainably sourced piña and Philippine cotton into covetable kicks.

“They’re 100-percent hand-woven, ethically sourced and produced,” says consulting creative director Luis Espiritu. “Made of pineapple fiber and Philippine cotton, our rubber soles are from farmed rubber trees in Mindanao. The textile of the shoes are hand-woven from the weavers of Kabankalan in Negros.”

Recently, the brand collaborated with three well-known artists to develop the LakART series, merging Lakat and art into the sneaker version of wearable art, and the sneakers will be launched at ArtFair PH 2024.

Espiritu approached artists Dex Fernandez, aka Garapata; Lilianna Manahan; and Russell Trinidad, aka Doktor Karayom, because he’d always been fascinated by their art.  “I was drawn by each of the characters represented: Garapata (ticks), Lilianna (birds) and Karayom (ants) to create that whimsical, comical and street approach,” he says. “Lakat becomes the canvas of these young, celebrated and renowned global artists.”

The collab was inspired by the idea of creating wearable art, meaning something you can wear every day and not just for display. “Making art accessible, wearable, and having that sense of realism in fashioning art,” Espiritu says.

Making Lakat sneakers is an elaborate process that involves Negros farmers harvesting piña leaves, which are then brought to Manila, where they’re transformed into threads. These threads are then brought back to Negros and given to the weavers, who hand-weave them in special looms built specifically for the shoes. Then they’re brought to Manila again to be assembled at the shoe factory, where rubber for the soles are brought in from Mindanao. “Even the shoelaces are made of pineapple fiber and Philippine cotton,” notes Espiritu.

Co-founder and -owner Banj Claparols says, “For the artist collab, aside from our current workers, we are adding more craftsmen. We are engaging the silkscreen printers — we are doing manual printing — and more embroiderers.  Though the embroidery is machine embroidery, they operate it manually.”

Banj and husband Mike have another brand called Creative Definitions, which creates local textiles. “A trip abroad exposed them to all these sustainability concerns, and they decided to create these pineapple sneakers,” recounts Espiritu. “This is in cooperation with the PTRI (Philippine Textile Research Institute), which had a hand in helping develop and move this sneaker idea forward until they were able to launch it.”

Espiritu says that art in fashion has more often than not perceived as expensive and impractical to wear, but you can wear LakART shoes every day because they’re water-repellent and easy to clean: just wipe with a damp cloth. The sneakers are rendered in lo-cut and hi-cut styles so there’s a design for everyone.

“We’re trying to make this fantasy a reality, but at the same time also giving exposure to brilliant Filipino artists whose works we admire but at the same time can bring the brand to the future,” Espiritu says.  “This is the first time in Philippine fashion history that a local sneaker brand that is handwoven has ever come out with art.”

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The LakART series will launch at ArtFair Philippines on Feb. 16 and be available till Jan. 18. Each artist will have only 100 pairs of numbered sneakers available.

Dex Fernandez, aka garapata

What was the inspiration behind your designs for Lakat and their color story?

In general, my core concept is about infestations. Ticks (garapata) manifest this idea. The tick that became my iconic character is now a brand. They simply represent us. With many legs and feet, we're always searching the right host, where we could feed, and grow together, or just be alone peacefully.

With perfect irony, the shoes that would protect our feet are also infested with these ticks, reminding us that wherever we go, we have parasites feeding from our feet. In a cute or charming way!

What materials did you use?

I chose silkscreen printed on canvas. I'm a fan of the traditional medium.

Have you ever designed sneakers before?

Yes, but for personal consumption only.

Did Luis give you any guidelines or total creative freedom?

We're glad that Luis gave us total creative freedom.

What are the special requirements/challenges in designing for footwear?

Since I'm working with a very intricate designs, the task of creating silkscreen is not an easy job. I'm very meticulous about the precise lines and the color separation should be registered exactly.

But placing the design onto the shoe layout is not a big deal at all, because I composed the design that could be placed in any spot. I don't want to stress the printer. As much as possible everything is easy and fun when making it.

What do you think of the concept of wearable art?

I have this concept that our body is like a blank canvas. Whatever dress you put on makes you a painting. We become a painting. So adding more wearable art, you become more conceptual, and it adds more narrative. In other words, wearable art is a threshold of art and design. It's up to us either we'll wear it or display it in our house.

Do you wear sneakers yourself?  What do you look for in the perfect pair of sneaks/shoes?

Yes, big fan of sneakers here. I prefer design first, then comfiness.

Lilianna Manahan

What was the inspiration behind your designs for Lakat and their color story?

I referred back to my paper and metal sculptures that I started doing in 2023. It started out as a material study on the similarities of what paper and metal can do. I just applied the same principle to the fabric of Lakat to try and replicate the forms I had been discovering.

I also used a birdlike character named Clarence whom I have been drawing for a while. He has become some sort of avatar of things and situations I cannot express with words. 
What materials did you use?

I used all the materials Lakat had available and tried to maximize their piña-cotton mix. I knew that they started out with weaving and experimented with mixing colors through the thread colors and directions of the weave to make muted and speckled tones of what they had previously developed. I also experimented with embroidery for the bird Clarence to translate my pen-and-ink drawings to thread.  
Have you ever designed sneakers before?

No, I haven’t, that’s why this project was so fun because I have been wanting to.
Did Luis give you any guidelines or total creative freedom?

He gave me total creative freedom but requested for Clarence to be showcased. 
What are the special requirements/challenges in designing for footwear?

The most important thing for me is that they have to look good and feel comfortable! The other thing is that it should be an accent to and extension of your foot. 

What do you think of the concept of wearable art?

I am totally for it, especially if it’s done in a tasteful way that showcases the object/item carrying the art. It’s a mix of function, practicality and self-expression. 
Do you wear sneakers yourself?  What do you look for in the perfect pair of sneaks/shoes?

Yes, sneakers are part of my everyday life! I look for comfort and the rest I kind of just see if they’re interesting for me to wear. I love color and metallics. I also look at details like the mix of materials, stitching and colorways. 

Russell Trinidad, aka Doktor Karayom

What was the inspiration behind your designs for Lakat and their color story?
Yung title ng konsepto ko sa Lakat shoes ay “Naengkanto.” Nakuha ko ito mula sa ating Filipino folklore na nadwende o naengkanto ka, pag nakatapak ng mga nilalang sa paligid na hindi nakikita ay magkakaroon ka ng mga kakaibang karamdaman o kung ano man sa iyong katawan; dun ako kumuha ng inspirasyon since sapatos ito tapos kung saan saan ka makakarating, hindi mo maiiwasan na makatapak o maka-encounter ng kakaiba, kaya ganun yung desenyo, may lumalabas na bulaklak o halaman sa parte ng katawan ng tao.
Ipinasok ko din ito sa konsepto na kung saan ka man mapunta ay marami kang matutunan base sa nararanasan mo at mula doon ay may lalago na karanasan o aral sa loob mo — tutubo, mamumulaklak… mamumunga.
What materials did you use?
Ang napili po na gagawin ay isi-silkscreen ang disenyo sa sapatos.
Have you ever designed sneakers before?
Opo. Gumagawa ako ng ibang mga disenyo sa sapatos pero pansarili lang po ito na gamit. Kino-customize ko ito, pinapalitan ng tela, o nagdadagdag ng elemento sa sapatos, at binabagay ko din ito sa kwento na naiisip ko.
Did Luis give you any guidelines or total creative freedom?
Siguro sa lagay ko meron, since medyo gory o nakakatakot yung mga tema ng ginagawa ko, yun yung ito-tone down ko. Ayos lang naman sa akin iyon, nacha-challenge din ako na magkwento gamit ang hindi ko normal na tema na ginagawa o yung pang wholesome na pyesa, pero alam mo pa din na ako ang gumawa.
What are the special requirements/challenges in designing for footwear?
Nakaktuwa itong project na ito kasi marami akong natutunan, lalo na materyales — kung ano ang mga ginagamit at kung paano ang proseso ng paggawa ng sapatos simula sa umpisa. Nalaman ko din na marami din na isasaalang-alang kung paano lumikha ng isang pares kung kaya ba itong suotin, paano patitibayin, paano pagsasamahin ang magkakaibang materyales, kumbaga hindi sya ganun kadali pala gawin pero mula sa ganung perspektibo nakakatuwa kasi marami ding paraan at aksyon upang maging totoo ang minsang nasa papel na disenyo.
What do you think of the concept of wearable art?
Maganda ang ganitong konsepto kasi labas ito sa pangkaraniwang ginagawa sa art na sinasabit lang sa loob ng isang lugar o naka pirmi lang ito. Ang wearable art ay parang walking gallery na din, tao mismo ang nagdadala. Maganda din dito kasi kung saan-saan makakarating ang disenyo na sinuot, at bumabagay ito sa paligid at kung saang sitwasyon mo man ito madadala.
Do you wear sneakers yourself? What do you look for in the perfect pair of sneaks/shoes?
Opo. Mahilig din ako sa sneakers, gusto ko yung kumportable ako, hindi mainit sa paa, at kaya ko itong ipangharabas habang kaya nitong dalhin o bagayan ang porma ko. May Lakat na sapatos din akong sinusuot at doon naranasan ko ang kumportableng pagsuot ng sapatos na matibay at pormadong pormado pa din kahit madumihan.