A tale of five Seoul cities

MANILA, Philippines – When it comes to surfing the hallyu pop culture wave, I could practically turn pro with my love for all things Korean. 

Between K-Pop and non-English language dramas, Seoul Fashion Week and the space-age worthy Dongdaemun Design Plaza (one of the late Zaha Hadid’s most celebrated sites) — the discourse between music and fashion, art and architecture, film and television — the hallyu wave and cultural diaspora are briskly starting to outpace the region and going global. The mood is electric; pedestrians dress fabulously, the food is amazing, and the people are very, very friendly.

Outside of my first few trips to Seoul, I didn’t think I could find more reasons to fall in love (or to continue to visit) South Korea. But just minutes outside of its city limits, I found just that and more.

The Philippine STAR was recently invited by the Korea Tourism Organization in partnership with Philippine Airlines for a trip that begins in Seoul and circuits throughout the cities of Suwon, Andong, Daegu, and ends in Busan. A tale of five cities, so to speak — it felt like a golden route throughout the best of what South Korea can offer, a path lined with cherry blossoms (right in time for spring) perfect for any travel junkie.

For those of you who have yet to visit South Korea, I suggest you begin your discovery with Seoul. For the vast majority of you who have, and have yet to venture outside of its capital, let this be your guide. Take it from me, the food alone will be well worth the trip.

Gyeonggi-Do (Goyang and Suwon)

Begin discovering the rest of South Korea with Gyeonggi-do, South Korea’s most populous province which surrounds Seoul, like a donut-shaped mass of land. Only 40 minutes away from Incheon airport, Suwon makes itself home to the Hwaseong Fortress, billed as a  UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, and other surrounding attractions.

Relax at the One Mount Snow and Water Park in Goyang City with various indoor and outdoor attractions; an ice skating rink, snow sleds, pool slides, an indoor golf course, among many others. Most notable would be the jjimjilbang spa and bathhouse experience (as popularized by a skit on Conan O’Brien with actor Steven Yeun) in which you wear traditional clothing in kiln-heated saunas.

A highlight for me in Gyeonggi-do was the Gwangmyeong Cave; an abandoned gold mine turned into a tourist attraction with a wealth of sights and amenities. Art meets history with different exhibits nestled deep within the caves (from a statue of Smaug and Gollum, in collaboration with New Zealand’s Weta Workshop, famed for their contributions to the Lord of the Rings franchise; to artful light installations), a food destination makes use of the cave’s natural cooling system for a variety of 110 wines for tasting. Book your visits this year (from April 16 to Nov. 4) as Gwangmyeong Cave is set to play host to an international exhibition of the ancient Lascaux cave drawings from France.

For a deeply immersive experience in Gyeonggi-do, make Suwon your hub and visit nearby attractions such as Everland theme park, the Demilitarized Zone bordering North and South Korea, filming locations at Garden of Morning Calm, and much more. Their famous beef rib or galbi (visit Bon Suwon, a landmark restaurant) is not to miss.

Andong

Discover Gyeongsangbuk-do and make Andong city your base, the largest metropolis from the Northern province of South Korea. Known for its strong folk tradition and culture (and for making a mean salted mackerel, a famous dish and a must-try if you find yourself in Andong), experience the history of South Korea in stone walls and thatched roof villages by way of Mungyeongsaejae Drama Studio in nearby Mungyeong.

While you’re there, take a much-needed breather from the city and book yourself a trip on South Korea’s first rail bike attraction, see the cascade of rivers across a verdant mountain range — a family-friendly four-seater bike experience running the circuit of a repurposed coal rail line. (For more information, look up www.mgrailbike.or.kr.)

If you’re up for a more active vacation, try a zip line or try your hand at archery, or — for my personal recommendation — book a trip to Mungyeong’s shooting range (inquire at 054-541-3905 in South Korea) for 20 rifle shells a pop; they give you just as many chances to blow up a clay plate flying through the sky. With a trusty instructor by your side and a good sense of timing, I guarantee you’ll pop more than half — a truly exhilarating experience, if I do say so myself.

Cap your visit to Andong with a jaunt to the 600-year-old Hahoe ancient village, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a quick peek at the Wollyeonggyo Bridge.

Daegu

Billed as the fourth biggest city in South Korea, Daegu sits in the middle of a valley to the south, bordering Gyeongsangbuk-do’s mountains and the port city of Busan — by nature of its wide, flat mass of land, Daegu experiences the hottest summers in the country.

Cherry blossom sight-seeing is elevated to great heights by way of 83 Tower; crowning the grounds of Duryu Park and E-World Theme Park, 83 Tower offers a majestic view of the city and its tree-lined parks and avenues. Choose the revolving restaurant for a seated view of Daegu’s spring scenery or choose the two-way zip line for a much more intimate look within the confines of a four-seater cable car.

For a glimpse of Korean traditional culture, make your way to the Old Guam Seowon, the former location of a shrine and an academy for noble scholars — the ancient structure stands today as a beacon of ancient Korea with a host of courtly activities and games. Dress up in hanbok or Korean traditional robes; choose to play an enlightened scholar in pale blues, a courtly entertainer in bright swathes of yellows and pinks, or a member of the royal household in bright reds and navies.

When it comes to shopping for your pasalubong, Daegu makes a great case for both old and new. Enjoy the modernity of Dongseong-ro, Daegu’s largest fashion district and shopping street — similar to Myeong-dong in Seoul but with a stronger emphasis on local fashion. If endless Korean cosmetics and high street labels aren’t your speed, keep things traditional with a trip to Seomun Market, Daegu’s largest  traditional market — with a fine selection of clothing, crafts and a host of dried seafood for you to take home. 

Busan

Located at the southeasternmost tip of the South Korean Peninsula, the port city of Busan (second only to Seoul in terms of city size and population) rounds out our golden route. Saving the best for last, Busan offers equal parts sensational sights and culinary delights to appease even the most seasoned travelers.

Start your journey with Yongdusan Park’s Busan Tower, a 120-meter landmark that towers over the city’s unique seaside scenery. You may say, seen one tower, seen them all; but having seen both N Seoul Tower in the nation’s captial and 83 Tower in Daegu, Yongdusan Park is the one I say you shouldn’t miss — the view captures Busan’s intricate roadway and bridge system, lining the different ports and beaches that bustle with fishing boats and industrial-sized ferries alike. 

Make your way down to the adjacent Gwangbok-dong shopping street for more fashionable finds (another retail destination quite like Myeong-dong in Seoul) and after, proceed to Gukje Market — a wide variety of stalls offer all manner of goods, perfect for traditional Korean pasalubong for your loved ones back home.

A highlight for me in Busan would definitely have to be the food — quite literally the freshest seafood you can find in the country. Make your way to Jagalchi Market for lunch or dinner — which, point of fact, is South Korea’s largest seafood market — and experience a variety of culinary delights culled straight from the sea. A word of advice: if you’re choosing between the famous Jagalchi seafood buffet or if you’re in the mood for something more special, skip the all-you-can-eat grill and go to any fine restaurant and indulge in haemul tang or, quite literally, seafood stew. It’s a red bean paste broth that plays host to a bountiful set of blue crabs, octopus, lobster tail, squid, scallops, shrimp, mussels and clams. Eaten fresh with bean sprouts, peppers, mushrooms, among other vegetables, the dish is a definite must-try for any seafood lover.

Dongbaek Park, at the southern end of Haeundae Beach, is famous for its tree-lined paths and breathtaking scenery. Amid pine trees and thick camellias, the Nurimaru APEC House sits at the crest of the island — the historical host to the 2005 APEC Summit. Nurimaru means “the summit of the world” and its overall architecture embraces traditional Korean motifs with a modern touch.

End your soujourn to Busan with a trip to Oryukdo Skywalk, a seaside attraction boasting a terrific view; dozens of rock formations, small islands and vertical cliff sides make for a unique seascape.  

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Visit South Korea and enjoy a different kind of cherry blossom experience from Gyeonggido to Busan. Enjoy five days and four nights with 4-star hotel accommodations, meals, guided tours, and flights with Philippine Airlines for as low as $898 all-in.

Special thanks to Gyeonggi Tourism Organization, Gyeongsangbukdo Tourism Corporation, Daegu Metropolitan City and Busan Tourism Organization for supporting our tour.

For more information, contact Korea Tourism Organization Manila Office (KTO) at ktomanila@gmail.com or follow them on facebook.com/koreatourismmanila or on twitter.com/KTOManila