Cooking it up, Tuscan-style
November 11, 2005 | 12:00am
7I’ve always been a great lover of food, be it Asian, Mediterranean, or other western cuisines – yummy food has always been at the top of my list and especially in my family’s list as well. Maybe it’s my mom’s gastronomic training, or maybe it’s my Lola, who purposely educated our tummies to experience every flavor in the globe. Whatever it is, it led me directly to the kitchen – as soon as I wake up in the morning, after school when I was younger, and at present, after a late night out with my friends.
My mom always said I grew up in the kitchen, seeing our cook at work, and smelling the day’s specials were enough to make a little girl curious on how the dishes were made, which didn’t help me getting on the chubby side during my teen years, but no regrets because it taught me how to start experimenting with cooking. My most favorite cuisine to cook was Italian, with my trusty Giuliano Hazan, Harry’s Bar, and William Sonoma cookbook collection. I transformed our kitchen into a non-stop cafeteria – from the antipasti to the dolce, trying my best to become a master of the cuisine. Nevertheless, I felt defeated once I stepped into several traditional restaurants as I was vacationing in Italy wherein my efforts in the kitchen were quite hopeless.
One particular trattoria in Florence was really an answer to every food-lover’s fantasy! Trattoria Garga was traditional yet had unique twists in their menu – cozy interior, hand-painted frescoes (by the owners themselves) on the walls and vaulted ceilings, extremely friendly servers (who try their best to speak English), and a unique menu that is not comparable to any resto in Florence. They started in 1979 as a hole-in-the-wall eatery, which then transformed into a 14th century palazzo in 1988. Giuliano Gargani, or Garga to his friends, was a complete pro in the kitchen, so it was not a surprise when he and his wife Sharon Oddson decided to open a trattoria named Garga. I still remember my first bite of Garga’s Insalata di rucola, pomodoro, e avocado (arugula, tomatoes, and avocado salad) topped with pine nuts and hearts of palm, simply dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh citrus lemon, which was really refreshing due to the warm Italian summer night. What came after was the yummy Scaloppine con Porcini e crema (veal cutlet with Porcini mushrooms and cream) that had a slight gorgonzola taste, which blended well with the Porcini and the tender veal. Lastly, we had the best Italian cheesecake to end the night, made with mascarpone cheese – it was so good that we had to order another one just to satisfy our craving.
As soon as I found out that they offered cooking lessons, I jumped at the chance and easily sacrificed a day away from shopping just to learn a few of their bestsellers. It was completely worth it! Sharon Oddson greeted us at exactly 12noon at the trattoria, wherein we transferred to her apartment, because she felt more at ease being around her own kitchen. I didn’t mind that I was the youngest of the group, being surrounded by vacationing American couples put me at ease because it was much easier to learn Trattoria Garga’s recipes with one lingo. Every day, Sharon changes the recipes she teaches, so I was quite excited when the ricette del giorno (recipe of the day) included Bon Appetit’s 2001 best dish awardee Talierini del "Magnifico", this pasta dish’s sauce is made up of cream, orange and lemon zest, and mint leaves. Also, another fave accompaniment or appetizer is the caponatina, which is a combination of the freshest veggies, sauteed in olive oil and topped with vinaigrette. Overall, it was a wonderful cooking experience, added with wine-tasting lessons that complemented each dish we prepared. The best part came when we dined together to taste the fruits of our labor, and figured out a way to digest before dinner time arrived. Easy – stroll along Via Tournaboni, wherein even our wallets went through some digesting of its own.
Here are some of Trattoria Garga’s signature recipes.
(Serves 4)
For the pasta
1-1/2 cups finely ground, hard-grain semolina flour, plus extra for flouring dough-rolling surfaces
2 jumbo eggs
2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. salt
On a flat surface, pour out the flour in a mound, and make a crater in its center. Place the unbeaten eggs, salt and oil in the middle and work the mixture, knead with the palm of your hands until your dough is smooth and elastic.
Divide the dough into four equal parts. Place one piece of the dough at a time on a well-floured surface, sprinkle more semolina flour on the dough, and roll out till very thin (thin enough that it seems transparent to one’s skin). Roll dough into a very loose log, and cut into 1/4-inch strips. Unravel strips, and place in a linen cloth that is sprinkled with flour.
For the sauce
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup milk
Zest of 1 lemon
Zest of 1 orange
1 ounce cognac
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
Salt (your preference)
1 T salt
10 ounces thin fettucine
1-1/2 cups roughly grated fresh Parmigiano Reggiano
Fill a large stockpot with three quarts of water, and bring to a boil. While waiting for the water to boil, pour cream and milk into a skillet with lemon and orange zests. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until milk lightly coats sides of the pan (2 to 4 minutes).
Add cognac and mint leaves, and cook for another minute. Season with salt to taste, and set aside.
When the water starts boiling, add 1 T salt, and cook the fettuccine until al dente. Lightly drain, transfer to cream mixture, and saute for a minute, moving everything around to combine ingredients. Add the parmesan, stir and serve.
5 stalks of celery
2 pounds yellow peppers
2 pounds eggplant
vegetable oil for frying
10 fresh basil leaves
1 small red onion
2 T extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
salt to taste
Cut the white part of the celery stalks into 1/4-inch slices. Remove cores of yellow peppers and cut, lengthways, into 1/2-inch slices. Remove both ends of the eggplant and dice into 1/2-inch cubes.
In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil until it begins to smoke. In batches, fry the prepared vegetables. Drain well on folded paper towels.
Chop finely the onion and the green part of 1 celery stalk. Place the olive oil, onion and celery in a saucepan, and cook over medium heat for five minutes. Dice the tomatoes into 1/2-inch cubes, and add to saucepan. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring only a few times.
In another saucepan, cook the vinegar and sugar on medium heat, until the sugar is dissolved.
Arrange the fried veggies on a large platter. Top with tomato/onion/green celery sauce. Sprinkle with vinegar mixture. This dish can be served tepid or cold.
My mom always said I grew up in the kitchen, seeing our cook at work, and smelling the day’s specials were enough to make a little girl curious on how the dishes were made, which didn’t help me getting on the chubby side during my teen years, but no regrets because it taught me how to start experimenting with cooking. My most favorite cuisine to cook was Italian, with my trusty Giuliano Hazan, Harry’s Bar, and William Sonoma cookbook collection. I transformed our kitchen into a non-stop cafeteria – from the antipasti to the dolce, trying my best to become a master of the cuisine. Nevertheless, I felt defeated once I stepped into several traditional restaurants as I was vacationing in Italy wherein my efforts in the kitchen were quite hopeless.
One particular trattoria in Florence was really an answer to every food-lover’s fantasy! Trattoria Garga was traditional yet had unique twists in their menu – cozy interior, hand-painted frescoes (by the owners themselves) on the walls and vaulted ceilings, extremely friendly servers (who try their best to speak English), and a unique menu that is not comparable to any resto in Florence. They started in 1979 as a hole-in-the-wall eatery, which then transformed into a 14th century palazzo in 1988. Giuliano Gargani, or Garga to his friends, was a complete pro in the kitchen, so it was not a surprise when he and his wife Sharon Oddson decided to open a trattoria named Garga. I still remember my first bite of Garga’s Insalata di rucola, pomodoro, e avocado (arugula, tomatoes, and avocado salad) topped with pine nuts and hearts of palm, simply dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh citrus lemon, which was really refreshing due to the warm Italian summer night. What came after was the yummy Scaloppine con Porcini e crema (veal cutlet with Porcini mushrooms and cream) that had a slight gorgonzola taste, which blended well with the Porcini and the tender veal. Lastly, we had the best Italian cheesecake to end the night, made with mascarpone cheese – it was so good that we had to order another one just to satisfy our craving.
As soon as I found out that they offered cooking lessons, I jumped at the chance and easily sacrificed a day away from shopping just to learn a few of their bestsellers. It was completely worth it! Sharon Oddson greeted us at exactly 12noon at the trattoria, wherein we transferred to her apartment, because she felt more at ease being around her own kitchen. I didn’t mind that I was the youngest of the group, being surrounded by vacationing American couples put me at ease because it was much easier to learn Trattoria Garga’s recipes with one lingo. Every day, Sharon changes the recipes she teaches, so I was quite excited when the ricette del giorno (recipe of the day) included Bon Appetit’s 2001 best dish awardee Talierini del "Magnifico", this pasta dish’s sauce is made up of cream, orange and lemon zest, and mint leaves. Also, another fave accompaniment or appetizer is the caponatina, which is a combination of the freshest veggies, sauteed in olive oil and topped with vinaigrette. Overall, it was a wonderful cooking experience, added with wine-tasting lessons that complemented each dish we prepared. The best part came when we dined together to taste the fruits of our labor, and figured out a way to digest before dinner time arrived. Easy – stroll along Via Tournaboni, wherein even our wallets went through some digesting of its own.
Here are some of Trattoria Garga’s signature recipes.
For the pasta
1-1/2 cups finely ground, hard-grain semolina flour, plus extra for flouring dough-rolling surfaces
2 jumbo eggs
2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. salt
On a flat surface, pour out the flour in a mound, and make a crater in its center. Place the unbeaten eggs, salt and oil in the middle and work the mixture, knead with the palm of your hands until your dough is smooth and elastic.
Divide the dough into four equal parts. Place one piece of the dough at a time on a well-floured surface, sprinkle more semolina flour on the dough, and roll out till very thin (thin enough that it seems transparent to one’s skin). Roll dough into a very loose log, and cut into 1/4-inch strips. Unravel strips, and place in a linen cloth that is sprinkled with flour.
For the sauce
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup milk
Zest of 1 lemon
Zest of 1 orange
1 ounce cognac
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
Salt (your preference)
1 T salt
10 ounces thin fettucine
1-1/2 cups roughly grated fresh Parmigiano Reggiano
Fill a large stockpot with three quarts of water, and bring to a boil. While waiting for the water to boil, pour cream and milk into a skillet with lemon and orange zests. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until milk lightly coats sides of the pan (2 to 4 minutes).
Add cognac and mint leaves, and cook for another minute. Season with salt to taste, and set aside.
When the water starts boiling, add 1 T salt, and cook the fettuccine until al dente. Lightly drain, transfer to cream mixture, and saute for a minute, moving everything around to combine ingredients. Add the parmesan, stir and serve.
2 pounds yellow peppers
2 pounds eggplant
vegetable oil for frying
10 fresh basil leaves
1 small red onion
2 T extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
salt to taste
Cut the white part of the celery stalks into 1/4-inch slices. Remove cores of yellow peppers and cut, lengthways, into 1/2-inch slices. Remove both ends of the eggplant and dice into 1/2-inch cubes.
In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil until it begins to smoke. In batches, fry the prepared vegetables. Drain well on folded paper towels.
Chop finely the onion and the green part of 1 celery stalk. Place the olive oil, onion and celery in a saucepan, and cook over medium heat for five minutes. Dice the tomatoes into 1/2-inch cubes, and add to saucepan. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring only a few times.
In another saucepan, cook the vinegar and sugar on medium heat, until the sugar is dissolved.
Arrange the fried veggies on a large platter. Top with tomato/onion/green celery sauce. Sprinkle with vinegar mixture. This dish can be served tepid or cold.
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