Plaza of the princess
Puerto Princesa’s main landmark and plaza anchor this tropical paradise capital.
I visited Puerto Princesa recently and was amazed at its urban growth. Although most tourism development is focused on the northern part of Palawan province, its capital city is also developing rapidly. The once quiet city is now bustling with activity. There is evidence of economic vitality here, and in the rest of this westernmost province of the country.
Most people know that Puerto Princesa is a relatively young city. Although it was only established in the late 19th century, it does have notable heritage architecture and sites. Like most of our Spanish-era towns, Puerto Princesa was built around its main plaza. This was and still is defined by its church and other buildings of importance.
In 1872, the Spanish landed at the stretch of land that today defines a city of close to 300,000 people. Palawan, and not just Mindanao, was one of the last frontiers for colonization.
The Spanish held the first mass on an elevated site near the water. This eventually became the town’s plaza, defined on its major side by a small stone church, and on the other sides, the town hall, a school, and by a cuartel. This fortification guarded the inner and outer bays. The early structures were made of coral stone that was available in abundance.
The settlement was the base for the Spanish Navy in the area because of the strategic layout of its bay. The Spanish government then issued Royal Decrees to entice settlers from other regions. This worked and before the end of the 19th century the town had grown into one defined by its cleanliness, orderliness and beauty.
According to historical sources, the settlement was originally named Maria Cristina, after a Spanish princess, but she passed away and the Spanish Queen Isabella changed that name to Puerto de La Princesa, which was later shortened to Puerto Princesa.
The plaza was the center of social events in the small settlement. The town grew in the American era but not much and not enough to justify city status. That had to wait until 1970 on the initiative led by Senator Ramon Mitra. The city is four times the size of Metro Manila.
The plaza was renamed Rizal Park early in the American colonial era, and endowed with a requisite Rizal monument. The town’s main drag was also renamed after Dr. Rizal. Many plazas around the country were renamed along with their main streets. The city’s main street’s names and Rizal’s monument thankfully last to this day.
The Spanish fortification was taken over in the American period by the Philippine Constabulary. The famous Philippine Constabulary Band led by Captain Loving probably played in the town in one of its nationwide tours. In the Japanese occupation the cuartel was converted into a POW camp. Over a hundred prisoners of war were massacred here as the war drew to a close. The ruins are now a park and memorial to the fallen.
Puerto Princesa started to boom in the 1960s and 1970s. The small church was replaced by a much larger concrete structure designed in a neo-classic gothic revival style. Since Puerto Princesa is an independent vicariate, the church was designated the cathedral if the Immaculate Conception. The light blue painted structure is a key landmark in the city today. Few tall buildings mar the still rustic skyline of the city.
Puerto Princesa’s plaza and cuartel are not the only notable open spaces in the city. Close by there is the Puerto Princesa Baywalk. This was formerly a large informal settlement by the water. This are was redeveloped into a wide esplanade after a fire gutted the settlement. The place is large, covering a few hectares along the inner harbor. Bike rentals, food kiosks and sitting areas line the Baywalk. A number of public housing blocks were built to accommodate displaced families. I do wish it provided more greenery and shade.
Yes, Puerto Princesa does have history and attractions beyond great seafood, tamilok, and butterflies at the Iwahig Penal Colony. Forty years ago, my college dean, architect and engineer Aurelio T. Jugilon, suggested that if we were adventurous, we should move to Puerto Princesa because it would prosper. Of course, it took few more decades but I wish I had taken his advice.
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Feedback is welcome. Please email the writer at paulo.alcazaren@gmail.com.
