The unseen Thailand
January 4, 2004 | 12:00am
Part of the thrill of travel is finding the unexpected in a place that’s already deemed a Discovery Channel mainstay. In Thailand, a locale visited by tourists for its bacchanalian offerings of white sand stretches, nightmarkets, spas, and the occasional pachyderm ride, the unexpected is found in the northeastern province of Korat, relatively untraversed compared to Phuket, Pattaya, and Chiang Mai.
Korat, a two-and-a-half-hour commute from Bangkok is one of the major destinations that the Tourism Authority of Thailand, along with Thai Airways, wishes Thailand sightseers to discover as part of their new "Unseen Treasures" campaign. Far from fitting the image of the stereotype sleepy province, Korat is an extensive eye candy that mixes simple folk, rich untapped culture, and both local and ancient history. Here you can find two of Thailand’s most unexpected thrills: one of the most valuable contributions to Mahayana Buddhism and, in surreal contrast, one of the country’s most significant technological advances.
History predates history. Behind the grandeur of a famed historical site lies an inspiration, another facet of history often overlooked, at times undiscovered. Korat is home to one of these unrecognized greats of ancient history. About 60 km. from the province’s city proper lies Prasat Hin Phimai, a 1,000-year old religious sanctuary and one of Thailand’s most important Mahayana Buddhist temples. Built around the 11th—12th century, Phimai is ancestor to Cambodia’s tourist—drawing Angkor Wat, even said to be the prototype for the latter. Phimai is said to have been built by King Jayavarman VII, one of the most important figures of the olden Khmer Kingdom, and Angkor Wat’s architect.
From the outside, Phimai Historical Park is unimpressive, surrounded by a claustrophobic row of stalls hawking pottery products, rundown 7-11 convenience stores, and flashy boutiques selling Western merchandise. Entering the park gates presents an experience in time travel. Ancient limestone and sandstone structures stand against abundant greenery and shade trees, majestic witnesses to change and the passing of time.
The most prominent structure one sees upon entering the city walls is the Naga bridge. The Naga, a mythical snake with seven cobra heads spreading its hood, has a long body that forms the rail of the bridge. This bridge is believed by the Hindus and Mahayana Buddhists to connect earth to heaven, in this case the sacred religious center of Prasat. The bridge leads to the arched gateways or gopuras. Most gopuras in Khmer temples face the East to fulfill the Hindu belief in the sacred powers of the sun’s rays. Phimai’s main gopura faces the south to face the direction of Angkor.
A further walk down the sandstone pathways leads to the principal tower or the inner courtyard, the most hallowed part of Phimai. The tower’s layered inverted cone is reminiscent of most of the Khmer temples. Carvings on the wall supposedly display excerpts from the Ramayana and the birth of Buddhism. Other parts feature the dancing Shiva, one of the religion’s demi—gods. In the innermost part of the temple sits a replica of Buddha with a naga hood over its head. This is one of the most sacred images in Phimai. Another tower called Prang Bhramathat lies southeast to the principal tower. Two sculptures were once found in this area: a sandstone statue of King Jayavarman VII himself and a kneeling sculpture of the Queen Jayarajathevji. Both sculptures are now behind glass cases at the Phimai National Musuem.
Ancient culture gives way to a more family—oriented locale, still steeped in history although more recent and more locally—centered. About an hour’s drive from Phimai and a two—hour car drive from the Bangkok Airport is Farm Chokchai, Thailand’s answer to New Zealand’s bovine sanctuaries and one of the biggest dairy farms in Asia.
Established in 1957, Farm Chokchai is the lifetime project of Chokchai Bulakul, the Thai Incarnate of the Marlboro Man. Inspired by childhood cowboy fantasies and a degree in Animal Husbandry from the US, Mr. Chokchai started out with a small—scale 100—acre operation that sold farm produce and raised native cattle. Over the years, Farm Chokchai’s operations expanded to cattle—producing, a dairy farm and the Chokchai steakhouse. Now, the central headquarters at Korat is an 8,000—acre operation that includes agricultural produce, restaurants, and dairy and ice cream production. Cattle head count: about 5,000 cross—breeds of the most popular black and white breed from the Netherlands, native cattle, and cattle from New Zealand.
The best – and only – way to experience Farm Chokchai is by taking its Educational Agro Tour, a two-and-a-half-hour journey into the operations of the dairy farm. The tour starts out at the Artificial Insemination Center where one finds out that the semen of only seven bulls are used to impregnate a harem of 2,000 milking cows. The Milking Center comes next, where the farm showcases the two ways by which to milk a cow: the hand—milking procedure – visitors are invited to try it for themselves – and the machine—milking procedure. About 18 gallons of milk are produced every hour. This milk is brought to the collecting center and then to the dairy plant, where visitors view the pasteurization process behind glass windows. The best part of the tour follows: a taste of Farm Chokchai’s Ummm!… Milk ice cream, a fresh milk and cream concoction that is worth its name.
Visitors then board wagon caravans and driven through hay fields, sunflower fields, canine and horse training centers, an aviary and eventually a petting zoo. For about 10 baht, visitors can indulge their motherly instincts by bottle—feeding some of the farm’s calves. Though only 20 days old, the calves are as a big as an adult Great Dane, and have already mastered how to induce sympathy with their big brown eyes, and have an oral grip of a toilet flusher.
The tour finishes off with a snack of giant steakburgers courtesy of the Chokchai Steakhouse. Just try not to remember those big brown eyes when you indulge.
* * *
For more information on Korat, log on to www.tourismthailand.org, the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s official website.
Farm Chokchai is open Tuesdays to Sundays and only accepts visitors that are part of package tours. For more information, log on to www.farmchokchai.com.
For tour arrangements in Korat, contact Nanta Travel Service at (066)044251339. Look for Prasert "John" Jeerasiri.
Special thanks to Golden Valley Resort (188 Mu 4 Thanarat Road, Ampoe Pakchong, Nakhon Ratchasim 30130, tel. no. 066-044297466) and Sima Thani Hotel (2112/2 Mittraphap Road, Ampoe Muang, Nakhon Ratchasima, 30000, tel. no. 066-044213100) for providing accommodations in Korat.
Thai Airways has daily flights to Bangkok. Call 812-4744 in Manila for reservations.
Korat, a two-and-a-half-hour commute from Bangkok is one of the major destinations that the Tourism Authority of Thailand, along with Thai Airways, wishes Thailand sightseers to discover as part of their new "Unseen Treasures" campaign. Far from fitting the image of the stereotype sleepy province, Korat is an extensive eye candy that mixes simple folk, rich untapped culture, and both local and ancient history. Here you can find two of Thailand’s most unexpected thrills: one of the most valuable contributions to Mahayana Buddhism and, in surreal contrast, one of the country’s most significant technological advances.
From the outside, Phimai Historical Park is unimpressive, surrounded by a claustrophobic row of stalls hawking pottery products, rundown 7-11 convenience stores, and flashy boutiques selling Western merchandise. Entering the park gates presents an experience in time travel. Ancient limestone and sandstone structures stand against abundant greenery and shade trees, majestic witnesses to change and the passing of time.
The most prominent structure one sees upon entering the city walls is the Naga bridge. The Naga, a mythical snake with seven cobra heads spreading its hood, has a long body that forms the rail of the bridge. This bridge is believed by the Hindus and Mahayana Buddhists to connect earth to heaven, in this case the sacred religious center of Prasat. The bridge leads to the arched gateways or gopuras. Most gopuras in Khmer temples face the East to fulfill the Hindu belief in the sacred powers of the sun’s rays. Phimai’s main gopura faces the south to face the direction of Angkor.
A further walk down the sandstone pathways leads to the principal tower or the inner courtyard, the most hallowed part of Phimai. The tower’s layered inverted cone is reminiscent of most of the Khmer temples. Carvings on the wall supposedly display excerpts from the Ramayana and the birth of Buddhism. Other parts feature the dancing Shiva, one of the religion’s demi—gods. In the innermost part of the temple sits a replica of Buddha with a naga hood over its head. This is one of the most sacred images in Phimai. Another tower called Prang Bhramathat lies southeast to the principal tower. Two sculptures were once found in this area: a sandstone statue of King Jayavarman VII himself and a kneeling sculpture of the Queen Jayarajathevji. Both sculptures are now behind glass cases at the Phimai National Musuem.
Established in 1957, Farm Chokchai is the lifetime project of Chokchai Bulakul, the Thai Incarnate of the Marlboro Man. Inspired by childhood cowboy fantasies and a degree in Animal Husbandry from the US, Mr. Chokchai started out with a small—scale 100—acre operation that sold farm produce and raised native cattle. Over the years, Farm Chokchai’s operations expanded to cattle—producing, a dairy farm and the Chokchai steakhouse. Now, the central headquarters at Korat is an 8,000—acre operation that includes agricultural produce, restaurants, and dairy and ice cream production. Cattle head count: about 5,000 cross—breeds of the most popular black and white breed from the Netherlands, native cattle, and cattle from New Zealand.
The best – and only – way to experience Farm Chokchai is by taking its Educational Agro Tour, a two-and-a-half-hour journey into the operations of the dairy farm. The tour starts out at the Artificial Insemination Center where one finds out that the semen of only seven bulls are used to impregnate a harem of 2,000 milking cows. The Milking Center comes next, where the farm showcases the two ways by which to milk a cow: the hand—milking procedure – visitors are invited to try it for themselves – and the machine—milking procedure. About 18 gallons of milk are produced every hour. This milk is brought to the collecting center and then to the dairy plant, where visitors view the pasteurization process behind glass windows. The best part of the tour follows: a taste of Farm Chokchai’s Ummm!… Milk ice cream, a fresh milk and cream concoction that is worth its name.
Visitors then board wagon caravans and driven through hay fields, sunflower fields, canine and horse training centers, an aviary and eventually a petting zoo. For about 10 baht, visitors can indulge their motherly instincts by bottle—feeding some of the farm’s calves. Though only 20 days old, the calves are as a big as an adult Great Dane, and have already mastered how to induce sympathy with their big brown eyes, and have an oral grip of a toilet flusher.
The tour finishes off with a snack of giant steakburgers courtesy of the Chokchai Steakhouse. Just try not to remember those big brown eyes when you indulge.
Farm Chokchai is open Tuesdays to Sundays and only accepts visitors that are part of package tours. For more information, log on to www.farmchokchai.com.
For tour arrangements in Korat, contact Nanta Travel Service at (066)044251339. Look for Prasert "John" Jeerasiri.
Special thanks to Golden Valley Resort (188 Mu 4 Thanarat Road, Ampoe Pakchong, Nakhon Ratchasim 30130, tel. no. 066-044297466) and Sima Thani Hotel (2112/2 Mittraphap Road, Ampoe Muang, Nakhon Ratchasima, 30000, tel. no. 066-044213100) for providing accommodations in Korat.
Thai Airways has daily flights to Bangkok. Call 812-4744 in Manila for reservations.
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