Noche Buena with 12 siblings plus plus
I’ve always been asked how I got into cooking. My answer remains the same since the first time I was asked decades ago: I was born and raised in Angeles City (as if being a Kapampangan is reason enough) into a large family of 12 siblings. I’m the ninth child, hence the nickname Claude 9. That’s eight boys and four girls — all hearty and fastidious eaters.
Just imagine the amount of cooking our mother did when we were growing up in the 1960s. Our eldest sister Meng (No.3 sibling) recalls doing the marketing as early as nine years old, riding the kalesa to and from the market, with a long list addressed to our mother’s suki vendors. They often thought our mother was running a restaurant. Though we had a male cook then, us kids would voluntarily help out in the kitchen whenever we could, without the need to be bribed with a reward. We learned the basics of cooking. And we all grew up being self-reliant in the kitchen, which came in very handy when we got married and started our respective families.
Senior moments: (from left) CJ (12), Gerry (6), Pol (10), Mario (2), Abong (4), Meng (3), Tesse (7), Doren (5) and Claude (9). Not present are Lito (1), Bam (8) and Ina (11).
Then the grandchildren came, and the great grandchildren. Our Sunday lunches with our mother run from 45 to 60 people easily, until her demise at 88 years old some five years ago. That’s where I honed my kitchen skills, so to speak.
It could even run to a hundred during our parents’ birthdays or town fiesta in October, to include some family friends and relatives from Manila. Cooking and entertaining at home is second nature to us Tayags. And having it catered is not in our vocabulary. This year-round get-togetherness culminates during Noche Buena, or the Christmas Eve dinner party. After all, it is the eve of the birth of Jesus, the most important birthday in our Christian world.
(Left) Continuing the Tayag cooking tradition: Strawberry trifle by 13-year-old Julia. (Right) Christmas ham from Pol’s (No.10 sibling) processed meat plant baked with pineapple and ripe mango balls
Feeding a large brood with hearty appetites is like feeding an army. One needs a battle plan to win their stomachs, otherwise, you’ll never hear the end of it. Curiliu is the Kapampangan term for shortage of food during a party, and that’s the worst nightmare any Kapampangan host dreads experiencing in his lifetime. And it doesn’t end at one’s doorstep — word will spread across town like wildfire that guests were left hungry. One loses face, imagined or not, especially if the person or family is known within the community as maniaman ya batal (“batal” meaning neck), or someone used to seriously good food. Mebatal could also mean one is left hanging or unsatisfied with the food (“nabitin” in Tagalog.) Add to my battle plan, a batal plan as well (pun intended) to avoid those unsavory comments.
Over the past 20 years or so, my siblings and I have devised a master plan on how to effortlessly put together a memorable noche buena party and enjoy it, too. The objective is to avoid leaving one person exhausted doing all the preparation, and to make every member of the family come as a guest and just enjoy each other’s company.
Colorful hand-cut pastillas wrappers will make a tablescape look festive any time of year (order from Maria Natividad O. Castro, Malolos, Bulacan, 0922-861-1379).
Call it a glamorized “potluck” dinner, if you will. Tasks are delegated, chores are assigned, pre-designated, no-fuss dishes are made ahead of time. And remember, every household would have a “specialty dish.” Include that. This way, everybody comes to the party fresh, relaxed and eager to enjoy each other’s company. Choose a theme for the attire. Decorate the venue festively, but keep it homey.
Coincidentally, I was scheduled to shoot for my TV show Chasing Flavors on Metro Channel two Christmas episodes, one for a Noche Buena dinner and the other Christmas day lunch, both with my family. Since they were to be aired this coming Dec. 22 and 27, respectively, we had to shoot at least a month ahead.
Food riot: What a night around the round table!
When I threw the idea to my family to reenact the Noche Buena and Christmas day lunch in late November, there was 75 percent (nine of 12 siblings) attendance (our youngest sister Ina lives in California; two brothers were out of town). After all, not only would it be a great dry run for the actual events, but my family also just loves to get together and eat. The working committees and assignments were set in motion right away.
Even the Angeles City Tourism Office reenacted a century-old Angeles lantern tradition, Lubenas, to set the Christmas mood, which was to be held in actuality on Dec. 15. The Lubenas ushers in the novena, or nine days of misa de gallo before Christmas. And to sweeten the Christmas pot, my good friends sent their house specialties: ensaimadas by Chona Ayson of Homemade Treasures (0928-507-0928); Magalang’s pride Carreon’s Sweets and Pastries (0917-528-7118); and Susie’s rice cakes.
Claude and his take on the chocolate de batirol fondue with ensaimada, puto bumbong, bibingka, ripe mango balls, strawberries, boiled saba banana and marshmallow: The Kapampangan hot chocolate drink is made with carabao’s milk and ground peanuts.
May you all have a merry, delicious and hassle-free Noche Buena.
Fourth-generation Tayags do a set of Christmas carols, led by Ada with her ukulele: (from left, standing) Bianca, Tua, Ada, Belle; (seated) Gabby, Andres and Nacho.
