The taste of home at Spiral

If there’s one thing this lady chef remembers from her childhood years, it’s the aroma of good food that wafted from her grandmother’s kitchen.

The smell of oven-baked cuchinillo, beef morcon and freshly brewed coffee diluted in water — so she could take a sip — brings chef Betttina Arguelles back to the time when she would watch her Lola Paring do her thing in the kitchen as she regaled her with animated “panahon ng Hapon” stories.

“Our noses indeed have a way of sniffing out nostalgia,” chef Bettina says as she takes a whiff of the beef roulade (morcon) she just made, her own version of Lola Paring’s specialty.

Chef Bettina is a certified lola’s girl, as she was the first grandchild and great-grandchild on both sides of the family. She spent most of her childhood at her grandparents’ ancestral home in the heart of Singalong, Manila, built in 1938.

“My parents got married at a young age, so we lived with my grandparents in Singalong. But even after my parents moved to our own home, I still stayed with my lola and would visit my parents during weekends. Being the first apo, I held that title of being the favorite,” she relates.

Lola Paring would do everything for the young Bettina. She would fix Bettina’s hair, prepare her lunchbox and even bring Bettina to and from school. 

“We would have breakfast together and she would make me a sweet, diluted version of her coffee because I wanted to have what she was having. Lola Paring really took good care of me,” she says.

Afternoons after school were usually spent preparing meals in the kitchen. They have a big family and eating together is the family’s favorite bonding activity.

Her great-grandfather Prudencio Langcauon was the Secretary of Education during the term of President Elpidio Quirino, and so the home has been host to many lavish parties.

“Lola Paring’s cooking really made such a big impact on me, since this was how we connected. And because of her, everyone in the family (she had eight children) are avid cooks,” shares chef Bettina, who is now the sous chef (French) of Sofitel Philippine Plaza’s Spiral restaurant.

Mom's the word at Spiral

In honor of Lola Paring and all the cooking grandmas and mommas out there, Spiral showcases culinary traditions/heirloom cuisine that have been passed on from one generation to the next in its Mother’s Day special brunch buffet from May 9 to 11.

Spiral’s female chefs — chef Bettina Arguelles and pastry chef Tweet Obsequio — whip up local favorites, while master chefs — executive chef Eric Costille, executive Chinese chef Mok Chee Wah, Vhiromi Yonekawa, Romeo Malate, Edgar Butawan, Caleb Han and Spiral manager Rougail Saucisse — share secret recipes that have been passed down through three generations of mothers in their families.

“Diners can sample my Lola Paring’s beef morcon, King Prawn Gambas Al Ajillo, and her famous cuchinillo, which will be at the carving station, here at Spiral on Mother’s Day. It’s my humble way of paying tribute to the woman who developed my palate for good food,” shares chef Bettina.

With stations of local fare interlaced with 21 ateliers, Spiral echoes a traditional Filpino fiesta in ambience and cuisine. Traditional Ilocano dishes take the lead in the gastronomic journey featuring sinugba, pinakbet, longganisa, lechon and empanada.

Editha Dacuycuy, a renowned pioneer of dragon fruit farming, will share some of her bestselling products such as cookies and wine produced in Burgos, Ilocos Norte.

Diners can also witness live demonstrations by women artisans of Luzon featuring an Abel Iloco weaver from Paoay, Ilocos Norte; a barong embroiderer from Taal, Batangas, courtesy of Bergamo, and the basket weaver of SC Vizcarra. Guests will be invited to participate in these mini workshops at Spiral during lunch and dinner from May 10 to 17, further cultivating the Philippine tradition of weaving and embroidery.

Special patrons will get a chance to win prizes from Jewelmer and L’Oreal Paris.

Spiral’s Mother’s Day Brunch is from 12 noon to 3 p.m. Rate is set at P3,500++ for adults and P1,500++ for kids. Dinner rate is set at P2,550++ for adults and P1,300++ for kids. Kids four years old and below dine free.

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For reservations, call 832-6988 or 551-5555.