Silly about red-hot chili
May 1, 2003 | 12:00am
This summer, it’s cool to be hot, especially when it comes to food. Nowadays, hotter rather than bolder seems to be the watchword.
A recent article in Food Processing Magazine says manufacturers are adding more chilies and other seasonings than ever to snack foods, believing that hotter flavors hold a better chance of bringing new consumers to a brand.
Even local restos and fast-food chains are adding spicier versions of their original recipes to literally pepper up their menus. And at your neighborhood supermarket, you will surely find a whole aisle devoted solely to all kinds of spicy condiments, from ground pepper to pepper flakes and bottled hot spices and more, with each brand claiming to offer the hottest thing.
What is this intensifying passion for fiery food? It takes a certain kind of bravery to love spicy cooking. At times, one takes the risk of burning one’s tongue or lips in consuming things hot… and yet there lies the thrill.
Recent studies have shown that the growing preference for hot and spicy food comes from sensation-seeking individuals who need to challenge their taste buds with rare and unusual food. Well, count me in. I personally love anything spicy.
Here in the Philippines, this demand for things spicy is especially true in the Bicol region, where the people’s passion for sili is without a doubt flaming hot. The sili bush thrives in the Bicol region, just as much as the gabi plant, one reason why most Bicolano recipes are liberally spiced with sili.
When Bicolanos cook with sili, none could be hotter than the siling labuyo. In fact, they even concocted a special recipe in its honor – the Bicol Express, or ginataang sili, which is named after the express train that used to run between Tutuban in Manila to the southern terminal in Legaspi City, Albay and back.
In a dish of Bicol Express, the sili is not a condiment but is the main ingredient. Though the original recipe calls for siling labuyo, one may opt to replace it with siling haba, or finger chili, because it may just a bit too hot for comfort.
Why do some people develop a deep love for chili that it borders on hot pepper abuse? There is a scientific explanation for this.
The chili pepper contains a chemical called capsaicin, which triggers the pain receptor cell located in the mouth, nose and throat. When the body’s nerves feel the pain induced by the chemical on the cells, these immediately send pain messages to the brain. The brain receives these signals and responds by automatically releasing endorphins, which is the human body’s natural pain killers. These endorphins create a temporary feeling of euphoria, which corresponds to a natural high.
The body’s other response to capsaicin includes an increase in heart rate and revving up the body’s metabolism. The nose also starts to run (pepper is known to help clear sinus problems) and the gastrointestinal tract slips into high speed. Gourmets who develop a love for things hot and spicy eventually crave these sensations and are hooked to chili peppers.
The problem is not all chili peppers have the same strength. Some peppers are hotter than others. If you take a bite of the wrong one, may God Almighty help. Prepare yourself for a shock.
It therefore pays to have an idea of the heat ratings of different chili peppers.
But just how hot is hot? When selecting chili peppers for heat, the rule of thumb is the smaller the pepper, the hotter it will be.
There are over 600 varieties of peppers, and they are sorted according to heat as follows:
Sweet peppers, which include all kinds of bell peppers, range from 0 to 1,000 SHU (Scoville heat units). Mild peppers, like the Ortega, range from 1,000 to 3,000 SHU. Then, there are the medium peppers, like the jalapeño, coming in at 3,000 to 6,000 SHU, followed by the hot peppers, like the siling labuyo and the cayenne pepper, ranging from 5,000 to 100,000 SHU.
From here on, the chilis are reserved solely for hard-core chili lovers. Very hot peppers, including the habanero, range a hellish 80,000 to 300,000 SHU.
Any pepper that exceeds this range is often elevated to the ranks of fiery pepper, or the Lucifer of the pepper inferno. Currently, the title belongs to the naga jolokia pepper, which is now reputedly the hottest chili pepper in the world, followed by the red savina and the tabasco pepper at third place. The naga jolokia measures an astonishing 855,000 SHU (although this has yet to be verified, according to some gourmet websites) and is found in Assam, India. (Help! I’m on fire! Someone douse me with water!)
If all that got you hot and bothered, here are some refreshing facts about chilis.
Chili peppers are good for a person’s well-being. It is cholesterol free, low in sodium and rich in vitamins A and C. It is also a good source of folic acid and potassium.
Contrary to the common belief that spicy food causes ulcers and other gastric ills, chili actually improves the digestion by stimulating stomach secretion.
And here’s an extra for fitness freaks: Capsaicin found in peppers increases one’s metabolic rate, causing you to burn more calories. It lowers triglycerides, which are fatty acids associated with bad cholesterol.
Here are some tips on buying and handling chili peppers.
• Check that the skin is smooth, shiny and unblemished and that the pepper has a nice green stem.
• Choose your peppers according to their strength.
• When storing chilis, keep them in a cool dark place. They will easily keep for more than a week unwrapped in the refrigerator crisper. Wrapping them in plastic bags is a no-no because it will make them rot. To keep them longer, marinate them or place them in oil.
• All of a chili’s heat is concentrated in the seeds and ribs. To lessen a chili’s strength, just remove all or some of these parts. Wear rubber or disposable gloves when cutting or peeling peppers, and remember to wash your hands thoroughly after working with chilis. You don’t want to rub your eyes or get a paper cut after you have just worked with chilis. A chili’s burn is pleasurable when experienced in the mouth, but may be quite painful elsewhere. I should emphasize here that it isn’t a good time to take out or put on your contact lenses after working with chilis. I always use leftover calamansi or lemon on my hands in between two washings after I have handled some chili peppers.
The Filipinos’ love for spicy food unites us with the rest of the world, considering that spicy cooking is found in many cultures. Just think of the Moroccan kabobs and couscous, Cajun cooking and India’s curries.
One fact is sure: All over the world, people share a love for hot sauces and hot dishes. We all love the feel of fire in our bellies once in a while. Spicy cooking gives us a break from the monotony of mediocre and adds a relish of adventure to dining. Definitely, a good spicy meal will bring tears to your eyes.
So, why not turn up the heat and spice up your life with some chili peppers?
Here’s a recipe to keep you sizzling hot this summer. It was given to me by my good friend Beth Romualdez, a very good cook and teacher and a true-blue Bicolana. I am sharing with you her recipe for Bicol Express with her permission.
1/2 kilo green finger chilies (sili pansigang)
3 cloves garlic
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1/4 kilo pork liempo, cut 1/2 inch thick
2 Tbsps. (heaping) bagoong alamang
1 cup coconut cream (kakang gata)
1-1/2 cup coconut milk (second extraction)
Cut the finger chilies slanted. Remove the seeds if you want it less hot. In a pan, put together the coconut milk, garlic and pork. Cover and allow to boil until pork is tender. Add the bagoong alamang and cook for 1 minute. Add the sliced chilies, stir fry for 30 seconds then add the coconut cream. Stir once and allow to cook in medium heat until oil forms on top. Remove from heat and serve.
Beth says Bicol Express is ginataang sili and not ginataang pork with sili. It should have more sili than pork. The coconut cream should also be cooked well so that the coconut oil is expressed during cooking. The coconut oil helps the dish keep longer.
A recent article in Food Processing Magazine says manufacturers are adding more chilies and other seasonings than ever to snack foods, believing that hotter flavors hold a better chance of bringing new consumers to a brand.
Even local restos and fast-food chains are adding spicier versions of their original recipes to literally pepper up their menus. And at your neighborhood supermarket, you will surely find a whole aisle devoted solely to all kinds of spicy condiments, from ground pepper to pepper flakes and bottled hot spices and more, with each brand claiming to offer the hottest thing.
What is this intensifying passion for fiery food? It takes a certain kind of bravery to love spicy cooking. At times, one takes the risk of burning one’s tongue or lips in consuming things hot… and yet there lies the thrill.
Recent studies have shown that the growing preference for hot and spicy food comes from sensation-seeking individuals who need to challenge their taste buds with rare and unusual food. Well, count me in. I personally love anything spicy.
Here in the Philippines, this demand for things spicy is especially true in the Bicol region, where the people’s passion for sili is without a doubt flaming hot. The sili bush thrives in the Bicol region, just as much as the gabi plant, one reason why most Bicolano recipes are liberally spiced with sili.
When Bicolanos cook with sili, none could be hotter than the siling labuyo. In fact, they even concocted a special recipe in its honor – the Bicol Express, or ginataang sili, which is named after the express train that used to run between Tutuban in Manila to the southern terminal in Legaspi City, Albay and back.
In a dish of Bicol Express, the sili is not a condiment but is the main ingredient. Though the original recipe calls for siling labuyo, one may opt to replace it with siling haba, or finger chili, because it may just a bit too hot for comfort.
Why do some people develop a deep love for chili that it borders on hot pepper abuse? There is a scientific explanation for this.
The chili pepper contains a chemical called capsaicin, which triggers the pain receptor cell located in the mouth, nose and throat. When the body’s nerves feel the pain induced by the chemical on the cells, these immediately send pain messages to the brain. The brain receives these signals and responds by automatically releasing endorphins, which is the human body’s natural pain killers. These endorphins create a temporary feeling of euphoria, which corresponds to a natural high.
The body’s other response to capsaicin includes an increase in heart rate and revving up the body’s metabolism. The nose also starts to run (pepper is known to help clear sinus problems) and the gastrointestinal tract slips into high speed. Gourmets who develop a love for things hot and spicy eventually crave these sensations and are hooked to chili peppers.
The problem is not all chili peppers have the same strength. Some peppers are hotter than others. If you take a bite of the wrong one, may God Almighty help. Prepare yourself for a shock.
It therefore pays to have an idea of the heat ratings of different chili peppers.
But just how hot is hot? When selecting chili peppers for heat, the rule of thumb is the smaller the pepper, the hotter it will be.
There are over 600 varieties of peppers, and they are sorted according to heat as follows:
Sweet peppers, which include all kinds of bell peppers, range from 0 to 1,000 SHU (Scoville heat units). Mild peppers, like the Ortega, range from 1,000 to 3,000 SHU. Then, there are the medium peppers, like the jalapeño, coming in at 3,000 to 6,000 SHU, followed by the hot peppers, like the siling labuyo and the cayenne pepper, ranging from 5,000 to 100,000 SHU.
From here on, the chilis are reserved solely for hard-core chili lovers. Very hot peppers, including the habanero, range a hellish 80,000 to 300,000 SHU.
Any pepper that exceeds this range is often elevated to the ranks of fiery pepper, or the Lucifer of the pepper inferno. Currently, the title belongs to the naga jolokia pepper, which is now reputedly the hottest chili pepper in the world, followed by the red savina and the tabasco pepper at third place. The naga jolokia measures an astonishing 855,000 SHU (although this has yet to be verified, according to some gourmet websites) and is found in Assam, India. (Help! I’m on fire! Someone douse me with water!)
If all that got you hot and bothered, here are some refreshing facts about chilis.
Chili peppers are good for a person’s well-being. It is cholesterol free, low in sodium and rich in vitamins A and C. It is also a good source of folic acid and potassium.
Contrary to the common belief that spicy food causes ulcers and other gastric ills, chili actually improves the digestion by stimulating stomach secretion.
And here’s an extra for fitness freaks: Capsaicin found in peppers increases one’s metabolic rate, causing you to burn more calories. It lowers triglycerides, which are fatty acids associated with bad cholesterol.
Here are some tips on buying and handling chili peppers.
• Check that the skin is smooth, shiny and unblemished and that the pepper has a nice green stem.
• Choose your peppers according to their strength.
• When storing chilis, keep them in a cool dark place. They will easily keep for more than a week unwrapped in the refrigerator crisper. Wrapping them in plastic bags is a no-no because it will make them rot. To keep them longer, marinate them or place them in oil.
• All of a chili’s heat is concentrated in the seeds and ribs. To lessen a chili’s strength, just remove all or some of these parts. Wear rubber or disposable gloves when cutting or peeling peppers, and remember to wash your hands thoroughly after working with chilis. You don’t want to rub your eyes or get a paper cut after you have just worked with chilis. A chili’s burn is pleasurable when experienced in the mouth, but may be quite painful elsewhere. I should emphasize here that it isn’t a good time to take out or put on your contact lenses after working with chilis. I always use leftover calamansi or lemon on my hands in between two washings after I have handled some chili peppers.
The Filipinos’ love for spicy food unites us with the rest of the world, considering that spicy cooking is found in many cultures. Just think of the Moroccan kabobs and couscous, Cajun cooking and India’s curries.
One fact is sure: All over the world, people share a love for hot sauces and hot dishes. We all love the feel of fire in our bellies once in a while. Spicy cooking gives us a break from the monotony of mediocre and adds a relish of adventure to dining. Definitely, a good spicy meal will bring tears to your eyes.
So, why not turn up the heat and spice up your life with some chili peppers?
Here’s a recipe to keep you sizzling hot this summer. It was given to me by my good friend Beth Romualdez, a very good cook and teacher and a true-blue Bicolana. I am sharing with you her recipe for Bicol Express with her permission.
3 cloves garlic
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1/4 kilo pork liempo, cut 1/2 inch thick
2 Tbsps. (heaping) bagoong alamang
1 cup coconut cream (kakang gata)
1-1/2 cup coconut milk (second extraction)
Cut the finger chilies slanted. Remove the seeds if you want it less hot. In a pan, put together the coconut milk, garlic and pork. Cover and allow to boil until pork is tender. Add the bagoong alamang and cook for 1 minute. Add the sliced chilies, stir fry for 30 seconds then add the coconut cream. Stir once and allow to cook in medium heat until oil forms on top. Remove from heat and serve.
Beth says Bicol Express is ginataang sili and not ginataang pork with sili. It should have more sili than pork. The coconut cream should also be cooked well so that the coconut oil is expressed during cooking. The coconut oil helps the dish keep longer.
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