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At ease with heritage

GLOSS THE RECORD - Marbbie Tagabucba - The Philippine Star
At ease with heritage

Tod’s begins its fall 2022 menswear short film with a model dressed in a chunky Norwegian knit and a peacoat with a wide lapel driving up to Rivoli Castle, the former residence of the royal Savoy family which dates as far back as the 12th century, in a 1963 silver Ferrari GT 250.

It’s creative director Walter Chiapponi’s vision for the brand at a glance. The history of the structure meets the modernity of the art works by Michelangelo Pistoletto housed inside the castle-museum. In his collection, he borrows from the ’70s its everyday uniform silhouettes — think fitted three-quarters, bell-bottoms, square-cut coats — rendered in a slim fit and a chromatic palette seen in vintage car interiors; generous use of corduroy included.

New techniques refresh the classics, straight from Tod's atelier. The shirt jacket, proposed by many collections this fashion week as an easy alternative to formalwear, sports a hot-stamped “T” and a roaring lion logo on its back, detailed with patch pockets and leather trims.

Also a result of Chiapponi’s work with Tod’s artisans is a new wool-weaving technique for a fur effect on a bomber, also used as the lining of the parkas and on the lapels of peacoats.

Indeed, knitwear shines in bold weaves and reverse embroidery. For relaxed luxury that’s quintessentially Tod’s, the collection is peppered with sweatshirts and joggers in cashmere.

Chiapponi’s innovation made its way to the brand’s Winter Gommino boot. Its bolder proportions in unbleached suede feature prominent rubber pebbles on the sole.

A new high-top sneaker inspired by skater shoes and basketball sneakers debuts in this collection. Executed with blended suede and technical materials in Selleria stitching, it’s more than the old-meets-new cliché; it’s moving heritage forward.

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Tod’s is at Greenbelt 4, Rustan’s Shangri-La and Shangri-La Plaza and online at Trunc.ph, Rustans.com, Zalora and Lazada.

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