Shedding light
Adsorb, not absorb: The Daily Superfoliant star ingredient is activated Binchotan charcoal powder derived from Ubame Oak (also referred to as “white charcoal”) which attracts and binds itself to impurities in the skin and then pulls them out of pores. Other active ingredients provide exceptional resurfacing for softer, smoother skin.
It’s not all in your head. The glow a weekend away from the city gives you is no placebo effect, and it’s not just because you’ve given your body enough time away from the stresses of urban living.
Skin aging is very much in the air. In recent weeks, I have thrice written about the issue as brands come out with research-backed measures to undo pollution’s effects on our skin. Studies have shown a link between exposure to air pollution and signs of skin aging, ranging from hyperpigmentation and fine dehydration lines to a weakened skin structure and increased sensitivity. Research even found that an increase in soot and particles from traffic was associated with 20 percent more pigmentation spots. Since the ban on microbeads after its effects on our marine environment have been proven, the beauty industry turns the tables by protecting our skin. But like our fight against environmental pollution, we should also put more effort into prevention, and humectant-packed moisturizers and sunscreen are not enough.
Dermalogica vice president of research and development Dr. Diana Howard explains, “As fine airborne particles land on the skin, they become lodged within the skin’s deeper structure, generating free radicals that trigger inflammation. Free radicals break down the skin’s natural lipid barrier, increasing trans-epidermal water loss, and create sensitized skin. In turn, we see signs of aging such as pigmentation and structural degradation. When aging is caused by inflammation, we call this ‘inflammaging.’”
Dermalogica education manager Michelle Mallari points out, “Double cleansing (removing oil-based dirt — usually from makeup and sunblock — and water-based dirt) is not enough.”
Next to masking, exfoliation is a hot beauty regimen step that everyone, even as young as in their 20s, should now focus on because, like masking, there’s a domino effect to its instantly tangible results: you reveal fresh, smooth skin and, if you’re doing it right, it’s the ultimate anti-aging step because you stimulate collagen, making skin look and act younger than your age. “Age is not so much a factor as the present condition of the skin that we treat,” Mallari says. “Dermalogica’s Daily Superfoliant is recommended because it counteracts the effects of a city lifestyle.
Dermalogica is developed by The International Dermal Institute, which has long harnessed the benefits of exfoliation in different types: scrubs, masques (such as the Gentle Cream Exfoliant, a personal favorite), and powder, a combination of both (the brightening Daily Microfoliant works wonders all over the body). Powder exfoliants have been around for centuries, famously employed by Japanese geishas who used rice seeds or husks. Rice bran extract, derived from rice seeds or husks, is also found in the Daily Superfoliant.
The Daily Superfoliant is the Microfoliant’s anti-aging version. Its star ingredient is activated Binchotan charcoal, a more potent version of the skin-purifying dark matter, which attracts and binds itself to particulate matter; as well as excess sebum and other impurities in the skin, pulling them out of pores. It comes with niacinamide, red algae and tara fruit extract which undoes any damage while making the skin stronger. Mallic acid and lactic acid are responsible for resurfacing new skin.
The usual way to use powder exfoliants is to dispense about a half-teaspoon into very wet hands and create a creamy paste by rubbing hands together. Apply it in onto the face in circular motions, allowing the granules to do a bit of physical exfoliation. (This can be addicting.) Being no acid novice, I’d rather do away with any abrasiveness. I pour the powder into a tiny saucer, mix an equal amount of water in to activate its chemical components, release all the powerful enzymes and skin-smoothing alpha hydroxy acids and anti-pollution technology, until all granules have been turned into paste. I apply it not only on my face but also on my neck and chest using a brush. I only massage it for a minute then rinse.
Despite its name, because this product is actually made of actives, you can have too much of a good thing. As Mallari notes, “over-exfoliating causes inflammation. This can happen with any form of exfoliation, even laser peeling. If you’re taking oral medication for acne, stop exfoliating first — lasers, chemical or physical exfoliation — for two weeks before you resume. Sensitive skin can use it once a week until skin acclimates. Oily-skinned types can use it daily. Dry skin types can alternate it, using it two to three times a week.”
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In the Philippines, Dermalogica is exclusively distributed by Rustan’s in Rustan’s The Beauty Source and Rustan’s Department Stores. Visit the Dermalogica Spa at the 5th floor of Rustan’s Makati to learn how to properly integrate the Daily Superfoliant in your regimen and include it in one of their signature facials.
