It's crystal clear for Michael Cinco

MANILA, Philippines - I wasn’t able to attend Dubai designer Michael Cinco’s show last season, but the buzz was thick among the fashion crowd, who were expecting another spectacle: more crystal-studded dresses and huge ball gowns with feathers, rosettes, and ruffles.

From showing with Barge Ramos for his spring/summer 2009 collection, Michael Cinco now had the stage for himself for the holiday 2009 season. And what a stage! He was the only designer — apart, of course, from the casual wear retailers — who set up theatrical props.

While waiting for the show to start, smoke machines were continually producing mist behind three floor-to-ceiling white walls of cloth that together resembled the exterior of a teepee. The effect was entirely surreal as the lights were dimmed amid the backstage preparations. It was as if we were waiting for an ancient ritual to begin.

The first piece was nothing less than breathtaking. It was a streamlined Victorian gown that gleamed with pearls, crystals, and what resembled semiprecious stones. The model wore a pearl choker that covered the width of her neck and a silver pirate ship as headdress. The audience was immediately entranced.

Then came a short-skirted flapper dress made almost entirely in pearls. This time the outfit came with a built-in necklace of similarly gleaming encrustments interspersed with pieces the color of emeralds. She wore not just a choker, but a tiara as well, evoking myths about exotic eastern princesses.

The next few dresses in pastels had fewer embellishments, but were meant more as evening gowns than as coronation outfits. Flowing fabrics were cut not just in the style of Eastern heiresses but also of European nobles.

Cinco’s dresses also came in deep reds, purples, mint and acid green, besides the ivory and pastels. There were halters with metalware, one-shouldered dresses with knotted tassels that looked like vines, and the expected ball gowns with crystals and ruffles. Though there weren’t any feathers, some dresses were made with such delicate fringey fabrics to remind one of them. One such spectacular piece was bedecked by a peacock assembled from small mirror-like shapes stuck to the back. It was so fantastic that the moment the model turned, there were audible reactions of amazement from the audience.

East met West not just in gowns and cocktail outfits, but also in red and mint green Princess Jasmine ensembles that came with both veils and stilettos.

The theme of the peacock was also explored with deep jewel-toned dresses in green, purple, blue, and gold almost all in crystals and glimmering fabrics.

Michael Cinco’s show triumphantly concluded with the return of white and ivory colored dresses, that didn’t just have more crystals, but fine lace ruffles that extended in trains fit for royal weddings. The gowns had heavily encrusted bustiers, with crystals scattering down to the skirts and to the trains.

The finest piece looked like a white peacock — from the pattern of the crystals on the bustier and the tail-tip patterns on the skirt, to the headpiece, which strongly resembled the bird’s tail.

There was no other show in Philippine Fashion Week quite like Michael Cinco’s, not just for the holiday 2009 collections, but for any of the past two I have attended.

It was the stuff of fantasy and dreams. With the numerous buyers and guests lined up to watch his show almost all standing at the end to give him praise, Michael Cinco may just be lucky enough to live in a world not far removed from one conjured up by his dresses.