It’s in the nature of Palawan
March 3, 2002 | 12:00am
Nestled in a picturesque cove located in scenic San Jose Coron, Palawan, Maricaban Bay Marina is the newest exciting water sports haven perfect for sailing, kayaking, wakeboarding, kneeboarding, kayaking, banana boat riding, extreme bob sledding, wind surfing and much more.
"We want this to be the yachting center of the country very soon. We have set up moorings for this. Like the Caribbean, Palawan is one of the best sailing destinations," said gracious Juergen Varnke, president of Eupac, Inc., the management arm of the resort.
Our 50-minute flight via Seair LET410 plane from Manila to Busuanga – competently piloted by Capt. Polido – was a very comfortable one. My group went on a 25-minute jeepney ride through cashew plantations and tropical foliage to reach the amazing mangrove forests where crabs and shrimps thrive. Later, a 20-minute speedboat ride ferried us to the Maricaban Marina Bay Resort.
As we approached the resort, the log cabin cottages beckoned. No cell phones will work here, but there are satellite phones one can use. We were welcomed by charming GM Menchie Almirol – who accompanied us as we checked in the beautiful cedar wood cabins imported from Canada. We took a deep breath as the fragrant scent of the fine wood wafted in the air. What a luxury to have all these 15 cottages by the bay! All are fully air-conditioned with hot and cold showers, a mini-bar, and a spacious veranda overlooking the bay. After a shower and nap, we had lunch of the freshest seafood and fruits by the infinity pool filled with natural spring water. It seemed to flow into the sea. Surrounded by the breathtaking mountains, sea, sand and sky, it was truly magnificent!
As the sun began to set, we converged at the Port Caltom’s floating bar – a perfect venue to gaze at stars and look for man-made satellites passing overhead. It must be noted, too, that Maricaban has one of the best records for environmental protection as its land, air and water remain virtually pollution-free. Dive sites here will prove to be remarkable, enthused Rolf Winkelhausen. Nature is at its best as visitors are welcomed by the playful primates and huge fish splashing away in the bay. As we sat on the shoreline listening to the waves lapping on the shore, we were served hor d’oeuvres, pate and crackers and exquisite wine.
The following morning after a hearty Filipino breakfast, we went kayaking across the bay, through the mangroves and to the beautiful beach house of Philip Cruz. The cozy interiors and rustic design enhanced by bright paintings made it the perfect home by the bay. A spring water pool located by the ridge gives an awesome view of the neighboring islets and islands. Adam Roszak, our photographer from Germany, was so inspired he just kept clicking away.
Next stop was Club Paradise which is just a stone’s throw away from Maricaban. Since both resorts are owned by the same proprietor, activities can be planned in these two great hideaways. Sprawled in a 19-hectare island sanctuary that features 700 meters of white beaches and rich array of marine life, Club Paradise recently bagged the Resort of the Year plum from the Kalakbay Awards 2001 of the Department of Tourism.
The cottages in Club Paradise are made from natural indigenous materials with the comforts of crisp linens, towels, strong air-conditioning, a marble bathroom, hot water and intercoms. Since a variety of flora and fauna abound, the resort advocates a philosophy of preserving the environment and keeping the resort as close to nature as possible. While you are here, you can also explore Palawan’s cleanest lake, Cayangan Lake, and try island hopping where lunches and dinners can be prepared as well as trips to Calauit Island. Then, try some bottom boat fishing.
After a hearty breakfast of boneless bangus, salted eggs and tomatoes and the sweetest pineapples, we went snorkeling and saw the coral gardens where reef fish, mantas and parrot fish abound. Diving instructor Dirk Fahrenbach said that when we all get certified, we could see the Dimalanta Shipwreck, the only one in Busuanga. The wreck lies in 45 meters of water and lies upright. This wreck houses a wartime Toyota Lexus, a giant barracuda that lurks in the deep and a giant grouper the size of a Volkswagen beetle.
Next stop was the Island with No Trees where black- and white-tipped sharks are commonly spotted. Island Without People is a reef that gently slopes where napoleon wrasses and bumpheads can be spotted. Lunch al fresco consisted of the freshest catch of grilled blue marlin and prawns in lemon butter sauce. Fruit flambé with whipped cream and chocolate sauce plus white wine and champagne topped the heavenly meal.
When nighttime came, we were transported back to Maricaban via yacht. On our way back, the sky glistened with stars as we pointed out our constellations in the dome-shaped sky. This scene reminded me of the clearest horizon that I saw in the Ivory Route in Petersberg, South Africa.
It was actually an appropriate prelude to getting up close to the animals of Calauit. Believe me, Calauit is the closest you can get to having a real African safari in the Philippines. Giraffes gracefully made their presence felt as we entered the Calauit Safari Park in the northwestern coast of Palawan – declared a game reserve and wildlife sanctuary in 1997 as the Philippines responded to an appeal by the International Union of Conservation of Nature to save endangered African animals. At this unique theme park, see the affectionate zebras nuzzle another after grazing in the open field. Impalas, gazelles, elands, topis and other animals come out in the open when they sense people in their territory. They, however, run for cover when they feel the presence of man. Even the owner of the Mala Mala Safari in South Africa, Michael Ratray, has been here. He was fascinated to find a safari right in this tropical paradise. Exploring the terrain also reminded me of the Kruger National Park as rangers driving jeeps explained the animal bush behavior. The animals here have adapted to their Pacific habitat and have increased in number from 104 to over 600. We got up close and personal with the Calamian deer, bearcat, Philippine mousedeer, tarsier, monitor lizard and scaly anteater. Calauit’s marine sanctuary provides refuge to sea turtles, giant clams and the rare dugong.
Last year, I spent my summer in South Africa. This year, I need not travel that far for a little safari.
Palawan offers a myriad of activities in a romantic, natural setting for the tourist in search of the perfect getaway.
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