Trend Alert: The Fifties retro glam

What’s with this era that designers can’t seem to get enough of? This decade is one of the most influential references in recent fashion collections. Each season, 1950s moments keep breaking out. This season, the Fifties is still set to affect your wardrobe. The season’s theme is ladylike chic. Fashion flits from Pink ladies of Grease to Audrey Hepburn, Katharine Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. Whatever you favor, the great thing is that the summer’s incarnations are wearable and mod. Accessories play a big role, proving that detail is what the season is all about.

The real woman is back. Silhouettes of the season are ultra feminine. Hollywood’s old-time glam is back. Think Audrey Hepburn. Remember her in Sabrina with a full skirt and headscarf. Think understated elegance. Clothes are polished with impeccable tailoring. Sleeves are shorter. Accessories are essential, from pearls to the perfect bag. Think Marilyn Monroe. Think curves and ultimate sexiness. Think pinup girl. Figure-skimming dresses exude femme fatale glamour. Styles put emphasis on the waist. Details – from round-toed pumps to satin shoes with rhinestone heels, open-toed sequined heels, box bags, jeweled clutches and pins – complete the look. Think, too, of menswear a la Katharine Hepburn. Luxe, cool and easy separates give an ultra feminine approach to men’s staples – from chambray shirts to loose trousers and leather belts.

Designers trawled the archives from body-shaping dresses to knee-length, circle, tierred and ruffled or pencil skirts, fitted shorts, pretty patterns and flower motifs, prom dresses in sweet colors, prim boxy jackets, cardigans and capri pants. The collections of Emilio Pucci, Etro, Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Prada, Calvin Klein, Marni, Miu Miu, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, D-Squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Viktor & Rolf, Marc Jacobs, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, Cacharel, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta and Louis Vuitton paved the way for retro glam.

The postwar era provided a sense of optimism. Women were back to their roles in the home after having done "men’s work" during the war. The new look of the full skirt and cinched waist reflected this feeling. Christian Dior was the frontrunner of this new style. The silhouette was curvaceous and reminiscent of Victorian styles. Shoulders were soft, bodice fitted, waists nipped and skirts full. Evening was glam with long gowns topped with beads, sequins, feathers or fur. In the later part of the decade, an easier, straighter form emerged. Cristobal Balenciaga departed from the hourglass shape and introduced more relaxed, geometric designs. Then there was Hubert de Givenchy who made the chemise or sack dress a hit. Coco Chanel also provided a hip alternative to elegant dressing. The most noticeable detail for daywear was beading on sweaters. Circle skirts were ornate with appliqués, rickracks, screen-printing, beads and glitter. Charles Jourdan introduced the stiletto. Pumps were the shoe basic. Shoes and bags usually matched every outfit. Rock ‘n roll, Hollywood and TV culture also had a great influence in the decade’s fashion. The youth dressed up like Elvis Presley. Jeans were their wardrobe staple. It was the decade of film stars dressing up to the nines. The social scene was full of parties, events and openings. Dressing up was a lifestyle.

Even beauty style takes reference to decades past. Black eyeliner emphasizes the eyes. Of course, the diva look isn’t complete without sheer, glossy red lipstick. The key is not to make the lips and eyes look done up.

Here’s how to achieve Shu Uemura’s ’50s glam look:

Base: Choose a foundation shade slightly darker than your own to offset the red lips. Set foundation with a sheer colorless loose powder.

Lips: Condition lips to prevent fine lines, dryness and chapping.

Apply lipstick directly from the tube and erase any mistakes by dipping a q-tip in a bit of loose powder. Blot with tissue and reapply lipstick.

Eyes: Apply an iridescent pale eye shadow all over the lid. Line upper eyelid with a liquid liner. Curl lashes and apply mascara.

Eyebrows: Fill in the eyebrows with a pencil to create the illusion of fullness.

Cheeks: Warm up the face by using a matte blush in peach.

Go shopping for the new classics. Accessories, from bags to pumps and sandals, take reference to fashion’s best moments. Femininity is back. Girly girls rule the season. Take your pick from the Fifties retro glam silhouettes – body-shaping frocks, flirty skirts, preppy sweaters, menswear a la Katharine Hepburn, capri pants like Jackie O. and full skirts from Audrey Hepburn’s Sabrina. It’s time to play dress up again. Mod takes on the old-time glam era are chic and wearable. They provide another great alternative to summer’s various role-play. It’s so schizo…I just love it. So go shop until you’re happy! Make a glorious entrance in the season’s retro glam.

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Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com