Homes of heritage

Many years ago, I got involved in a movement to help save some beautiful heritage homes in Baclayon, Bohol. The homes were going to be demolished in order to widen the highway. The homeowners got together to launch a campaign to defend their historical dwellings. They appealed to the local government, to media and certain national agencies.

It was clear that there was a great need for public education. Many people couldn’t quite understand the value of saving old buildings. Eventually it was decided to organize a conference on heritage houses. With the participation of speakers from other countries, our conference took on an international dimension.

I invited a speaker from the town of Cuenca, Spain. Cuenca was a sleepy community filled with ancient houses, which an uncle of mine, Fernando Zobel, helped develop. My Tio Fernando along with some friends set up a Museum of Modern Art in a cluster of old homes. This sparked interest in the heritage edifices and in the town itself. Now, Cuenca is vibrant place and is among Spain’s top tourist attractions.

We also had speakers from France, UNESCO in Bangkok, and Malaysia. The Malaysian speaker was Lawrence Loh, who came with his wife Lin Lee. The Lohs have transformed an old mansion in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Penang into a wonderful bed and breakfast where I have had the pleasure of staying for several days.

The Enrique Quema House: Still a private residence being used by the family, it is a centuries-old dwelling that is lovingly preserved. Gorgeous furniture, artworks, tiles and embroidered pieces all speak of the refinement of Vigan life.

Our Filipino speakers came from such places as Taal, Batangas; Silay, Negros; and Mindanao. The response was overwhelming. There were more than 400 participants from all over the Philippines. Everyone listened attentively while the speakers explained that heritage houses are important resources for a community. They are attractions that provide jobs through the tourism trade. They can be transformed into hotels, museums, shops and offices. They are treasure troves of beautiful designs, images and even technologies for living, which can be used in the present day for creating new products.

Finally, they are sanctuaries for the history and culture of a community.

Fortunately, through the combined efforts of many parties, the whole campaign ended positively. A plan was worked out so that the old houses did not need to be torn down. Another part of our country’s irreplaceable traditional wealth was saved!

Given my experience in the Visayas, it was a joy to visit Vigan. This UNESCO World Heritage City in Ilocos Sur is blessed with what is probably the largest number of remaining heritage houses in the entire country. There are still whole streets that are completely lined with these gracious buildings.

One of the most impressive residences open to the public is the stately Syquia Mansion. This amazing abode belonged to the family of President Elpidio Quirino, Dona Alicia. I had the honor of being toured by the two house historians: Eddie Quirino, the grandson of the late President, and memorable Rusty, the tour guide. Both are extremely animated, informative, and a joy to listen to.

Part of the collection in the Syquia Mansion includes memorabilia from the President’s office and the family car.

I was fascinated by the spaciousness of the interiors. There are two huge salas as well as an enormous dining room that can sit more than 20 people. There is a collection of charming European statues on elegant stands. There is a picturesque azotea filled with flowering plants. The inner hall is dominated by a gorgeous portrait of Vicky Quirino, who served as First Lady for her father as the President was widowed during World War II. What a ravishing beauty!

At the ground floor is an interesting exhibition on the life and times of President Quirino. The displays are well-conceptualized and very professionally arranged. I was told that everything was set up by the National Historical Institute. The exhibition, together with the magnificent rooms upstairs, combine to make a visit to the Syquia Mansion most memorable.

Maintaining an immense antique house like this is not easy. There is so much that must be constantly repaired and maintained. I was very happy to hear that the city government, led by tireless Mayor Eva Marie Singson Medina, assisted in the refurbishing of this important building. It is also most commendable that the National Historical Institute helped out as well.

Another heritage structure to see is the Father Jose Burgos House. It turns out that it had, in the past, been restored and ran as a museum by the Ayala Foundation. Eddie Quirino even noted that this was one of the first Vigan houses to be restored.

Memorabilia of President Quirino at Syquia Mansion

At present, the place is being run by the National Museum. Inside are displays about town life and on the biography of Father Jose Burgos, one of the martyrs of the Gomburza trinity. I even noted that some of the original dioramas from the old Ayala Museum have been transferred here. We were brought around by the officer-in-charge of the Father Jose Burgos House, Efren P. Vister together with the wonderful Milagros C. Alquiza, the city administrator, and Edgar dela Cruz, the city tourism and investment promotion officer. They proudly showed us the library with its many out-of-print books.

What is perhaps the real jewel of the Burgos Museum are the 14 paintings on the Basi Revolt. These works by Esteban Villanueva record the events of a 19th-century uprising in the Ilocos. One of the causes of the uprising was public protest over the imposition of taxes on basi, a local wine made from sugar cane. The paintings are fascinating because they give us ideas about Ilocano life more a century ago. I was captivated by the images of churches and other buildings as well as of people in the dress of the period. What really got my attention were the men wearing wide trousers with elaborately embroidered cuffs. 

I was also fortunate to have been allowed to see the Enrique Quema House. This is still a private residence being used by the family and is not open to the public. Luckily, arrangements were made with the owners who graciously permitted us a short visit. It was a great honor to see how a centuries-old dwelling can be so lovingly preserved. We saw gorgeous furniture, artworks, tiles and embroidered pieces which all spoke of the refinement of Vigan life. I especially loved the kitchen with its huge cabinets and antique refrigerator. What also made everything come alive were the interesting stories shared by the custodian, Gloria Castillo. She even demonstrated how a small panel in the floor could be opened so that one is able to see who was in the ground floor.

The houses of the more prosperous citizens of Vigan are indeed treasuries that preserve certain aspects of our country’s history. The families that have devoted so much time and effort to care for these homes deserve our gratitude and admiration. Of course, our history is made up of the stories of people from all walks of life. A more modest abode of bamboo and nipa will certainly have as many tales to tell as a stone palace. Which is why it is so important to conserve different types of buildings so that we will have a fuller picture of our heritage.

As I have noted earlier, it is not easy to maintain aging residences. They require a lot of supervision and constant attention. Often, the materials needed for their upkeep are very expensive and practically impossible to find. This is why I cannot congratulate Vigan’s Mayor Eva Marie Singson Medina and her associates enough for producing the comprehensive Heritage Homeowners Preservation Manual. This lavishly illustrated book that was put together with the assistance of UNESCO explains how to take care of antique houses. There are chapters on topics such as the history and general context of Vigan, evolution of traditional buildings, principles of conservation and documentation. There are practical tips on what to watch out for and what to do to avoid further destruction.

The heritage homeowners of Vigan have long been in forefront of restoration efforts and it is important that their experiences and insights are shared with the rest of the country. Leafing through the 166-page manual gives me so much hope. It’s so heartwarming to know that things are really moving now!  

There are many accounts explaining how Vigan survived the ravages of the Second World War virtually intact. I really don’t know which is reality and which is legend, but the happy fact is that the city’s historical buildings are still standing today, gifts to be shared with the rest of the nation.

Viva Vigan!