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YStyle trend report: MFW |


YStyle trend report: MFW

Martin Yambao - The Philippine Star

MANILA, Philippines - Milan continues fashion month with #MFW as the storied houses of Prada, Gucci and Fendi make the rounds. The mood of unbridled excess saw continuity with Gucci’s hi-shine meets geek-chic aesthetic by Alessandro Michele, the new working woman’s wardrobe at Prada, and the molto Italiano collection by design duo Dolce & Gabbana. YStyle recaps the shows in this #MFW rundown.

Art Attack Marni

Master colorist Consuelo Castiglioni presented a play on bold hues for Marni’s spring/summer 2016 collection. Castiglioni’s bottle greens sit well with shocks of canary yellow, vibrant reds pared down with whites and blacks; rust, amber and bright blues. The clothes were almost always layered to produce an altogether different look; apron tops were worn over split tunics, oversized coats paired with exaggerated proportions. The label forges ahead with a new stylistic vision for its house signatures, anchored firmly on the accessories that figured prominently on the runway. Chunky resin bangles stacked on both wrists, blown-up leaves for earrings worn with a swept-back double plait — the collection rang true to the house; truly, truly Marni.

Knot above MSGM

Massimo Giorgetti fielded a grunge-inspired lineup at his youth-centric label MSGM for spring/summer 2016. The upbeat collection took its cues from the house codes of street-style ready motifs and out-of-the-box silhouettes. The look had long-line shirts knotted with oversized bows, exaggerated flounces worn over drop-shoulder knits, and maxi-dresses dripping in punk style chains.

La Dolce Vita dolce & Gabbana

The design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana referenced their Sicilian and Milanese roots for a molto Italiano spring/summer outing. The mood stayed true to the Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic of overt embellishment and unrestrained opulence. The look had colorful chinoiserie, ‘50s-inspired silhouettes, and crushed lace pieces, among a mish-mash of other ideas. Day dresses had “Italia is love” mixed in with other cities embroidered in metallic threads; Peruvian pom-poms dotted hemlines and accessories. Their signature Riviera-style aesthetic is redone for the “look at me, look at me” selfie generation.

Molten apart Marco de Vincenzo

Marco de Vincenzo referenced Japanese manga heroines for his spring/summer 2016 collection. The designer had sleek mesh tops corsetted by bra-top dresses, devoré velvets and crushed lace; feathers figured prominently in some pieces, decided in application as ombré stripes and color gradations. Marco de Vincenzo was a treatise on texture: opulent in its approach but definite in its execution.

Hard Candy Prada

Miuccia Prada delivers her signature mash-up of traditional ideas revisited in contempory motifs. It was the working woman’s wardrobe; day suits, smart dresses and no-nonsense coats — but Miuccia would never stop there; it was embellished two-piece ensembles in beaded organzas and tweeds, radzmir sheer sheaths worn with go-go boots, outerwear striped in different skins and metallic panels.

Crimson Peak Fendi

Karl Lagerfeld’s spring/summer 2016 collection for Fendi was a tactile treatise to the confident woman. The mood was armor-like with an Edwardian bent: astrakhan fur coats with bejeweled flowers for embellishment, thick corded braces latticed over suits and dresses. The mood melded high necks and billowing leg-‘o-mutton sleeves with strategic cut-outs and micro-mini skirts. Lagerfeld delivered the sophisticated fun the storied furrier is known for.

Hot Fuzz Gucci

Alessandro Michele for Gucci continued the new house mien of vintage meets hi-shine; it’s geek-chic fit for a magpie aesthetic. The look had lurex pussybow blouses worn over plissé skirts, trompe l’oeil sequined embellishment over bohemian coats and dresses; this new Gucci girl will never be caught without her beret. Michele secures the bottomline for the house with a fabulous lineup of accessories; pearl-crusted shoes, bedazzled shades, double GG’s strapped bags.

Soft Serve Etro

Veronica Etro dreamt up her own version of a garden of earthly delights for spring/summer 2016. The designer referenced balletic movement and the disarming femininity of bohemian romance. Languid and louche silhouettes permeated the collection; ruched silk tops cinched over a ruffled skirt, tassel trimmed jackets over pajama pants. Etro made a strong-case for robustly feminine silhouettes — contemporary without sacrificing this season’s dreamlike quality.

Take me to the Car Wash Moschino

Creative director Jeremy Scott is no stranger to pursuing the most literal of concepts for the runway. For spring/summer 2016, Scott takes the Italian house of Moschino for a couture carwash spin; the leitmotif saw traffic cones, stop signs, bath bubbles and beyond. The mood was zany with literal box fresh accessories and over-the-top silhouettes; this season had the Moschino girl in full-fringed gowns in lieu of an automated scrubber, punchy swimsuits with graphic prints, and room-clearing ballgowns in satine.

Dark Room No. 21

Alessandro Dell’Acqua takes classic shapes and teeters them along the fine line between masculine and feminine tropes for his spring outing for No. 21. Deconstructed frills trimmed a drop-waist chiffon day dress, knotted voiles hemmed in a simple tank dress, hints of schoolgirl romance softened a crisp white shirt with a suspended pinafore. The designer remixed hard shapes with tactile materials; two-piece pajama suits and draped knits made for a specific brand of romance.

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