How clean are those makeup testers at the mall?

MANILA, Philippines - On the two occasions that I’ve had my makeup done professionally –– for my high school and college grad pics –– I ended up breaking out so bad, you can call it “outbreaking.” I learned to never trust other people’s brushes, foundation tub, lipsticks and what not at an early age, and have become obsessed with makeup smells. The foundation had a wet dog smell, the lipstick tasted like wax, and the brush poked at all my pores. I also ended up not looking like myself both times. My eyes would look even smaller, my cheeks puffier, and my nose way too wide –– all my worst features enhanced, in 3x5, 4x8 and wallet size! I have done my own face, but only when absolutely necessary, since.

For women with problem skin, choosing the right makeup is not just about picking the latest shades. It’s a bit more complicated than that. Years of trial and lots of errors have led me to find the right products (non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, oil-free, the works) to keep World War Zit at bay. Going to cosmetics counters is usually frustrating for the sales people who end up assisting me, because I’ve learned to not give in to puppy dog eyes and persistence, and I am especially unaffected by the suplada effect. I usually just get what I need and go…but there are times when I would need to see how the product would look on my face. Then it gets tricky.

Lipstick

I would observe the many ways different customers try on lipstick and just decide against it. Some would apply it directly on their lips full on (Unsanitary!), some would dab it on their wrist (Futile!), and others would molest the lipstick with their fingers and pat the color on their lips (Why?). I visited MAC’s newly-opened Mall of Asia branch and spoke to the brand’s head trainer, Owen Sarmiento, to clarify matters. He said the Philippine market is really big on lipsticks, hence it’s the most frequently touched product in the mix. “Some customers are meticulous, but some are not. But we try to give customers the benefit of the doubt –– we can’t really expect everyone to know how to use testers. That’s why we’re here,” explained Owen. Benefit of the doubt! It is a crime to exchange germs with strangers, after all. At MAC, every lipstick is dipped in alcohol and wiped with a clean tissue before and after a testing. For the Lipglass, the tips of the applicators are cut off to discourage customers from trying it themselves. Liquids are more prone to harboring bacteria. This prolongs the shelf life of the Lipglass and prevents germs from accumulating.

One comforting statistic though, according to Owen, is that only 15 percent of customers actually try makeup and ask for makeovers; the other 85 percent just go in to get products. However, one can’t be too careful.

Makeup and skincare

Obviously, it’s crucial to keep skincare products like moisturizers, primers, toners and creams clean and uncontaminated. I guess this is why store assistants often hover around customers, sometimes getting a little too close for comfort; they need to make sure that integrity of testers are kept in tact. There should be no direct contact with products, so stores must always have disposable spatulas to scoop creams out of their tubs and lotions from their tubes –– and absolutely no double dipping! The lid must also be wiped clean after every use with tissue and alcohol.

This is, of course, the ideal. We are not blind; we’ve seen our share of uninviting testers. This includes powder, liquid and mousse foundations. I’ve used Shiseido Sheer Matifying Compact Foundation in Light Ochre for years, so I’ve never had to try foundation at makeup counters (although I did try it the first time –– there’s something about Shiseido stores, all the glass and light, and the soft-spoken makeup artists, that make me feel safe).

For the love of investigative journalism I dared to face my fears and had full-on makeup done by a makeup artist. I went to The Body Shop in Glorietta where makeup artist Gil Honorado gladly took on the challenge. I didn’t share any of my traumas with him and just let him do his thing, all the while observing how sanitary the whole process would be. He set up a full set of Q-tips, cotton pads, disposable spatulas and tissue on the vanity. It was an 11-step process that was as sanitary as it gets –– he used a different spatula to scoop out different products, sprayed brushes with The Body Shop Cosmetic Brush Cleaner (which I wanted to buy but they weren’t selling), and even wore a powder puff around his pinky finger so the side of his hand wouldn’t touch my face. At the end of it, I looked nothing like my grad pic. (I looked younger than my grad pic.)

Test responsibly

As a concerned citizen, I urge fellow makeup lovers to be responsible testers. Lipsticks shouldn’t be carriers of diseases and agents of cold sore outbreaks. If store assistants follow you around, it could be because they want to help. If a tester’s cleanliness looks questionable but redeemable, ask them to clean it following the procedures mentioned above. They can be applied to any store. Don’t be lazy or shy –– it’s your face on the line.

Trying on lipstick

    Here’s the best way to minimize germ transfer when trying on lipstick (this is also the standard procedure at MAC):

Step 1: Ask the store assistant to get you a flask of isoprophyl alcohol and dip the lipstick in it.

Step 2: Wipe off alcohol with a clean tissue. This will also wipe off the top layer of color that a previous customer may have had contact with.

Step 3: Try on the lipstick on your lips. “Nothing beats the efficiency of trying on lipstick on the lips itself –– not on your hand, not on your friend. Put it on your lips and use the full color of it. Don’t hesitate because we clean them. The best shade should bring out the radiance of your skin tone and make you look more vibrant, alive,” said Owen.

Step 4: Once you’re done, the store assistant should slice off the top part of the lipstick with a sanitized cutter, dip the lipstick in alcohol, and wipe the alcohol off with a clean tissue.

When to say goodbye: A lot of women are big lipstick collectors. Sometime during the recession, a report came out that although people all over the world are going broke, lipstick sales have skyrocketed. Though lipstick has recently been replaced by nail polish as the luxury impulse buy, just look around you and it’s not hard to conclude that lipstick is still very much “it.” Case in point: I have 22. Do I wear them all? Nah. (I work at the Port Area, so there.) Only Plumful and Del Rio, both from MAC, are used up. Owen tells me that lipstick shelf life is usually 24 months. Generally, cosmetics have illustration of a tub on the packaging that indicates how long a product is good for, so users don’t need to guess. “Our lipsticks have a signature vanilla scent –– if it starts smelling like wax, throw it out,” he says.

Keeping it clean

Gil Honorado, makeup artist at The Body Shop, shared how they keep cosmetic tools clean. You may try these at home.

• We always start with a clean face. “Not only does a clean face take on makeup better, this will also keep you from breaking out and prevent bacteria transfer.” Gil cleansed, toned and moisturized my face with their Seaweed skincare line.

• Use synthetic brushes. “We have a cruelty-free stance here at The Body Shop so we use mostly synthetic brushes, they’re easier to clean. Also animal hairs become stiff over time from use and washing, and tend to collect more bacteria,” he said.

• “We clean our brushes before and after a makeover. We use The Body Shop’s Tea Tree Oil Facial Wash to wash them,” Gil shared. In between, they spritz it with a cosmetic brush cleaner. To clean brushes, simply dip the brush in a mixture of the facial wash and water, swirl around until clean, and rinse under running water. Wipe excess water with tissue and air dry.

• Eyelash curlers get dirty, too! Wipe before and after use with tissue and alcohol. Mascara, the usual culprit, can irritate eyes and even cause eye tears that lead to infection. Wiping the wand before and after use can minimize the chances of bacteria breeding in the tube. Also, if it starts to smell funny –– that is, a sharp, chemical smell –– throw it out. Mascaras have a shelf life of three months; those made with all natural ingredients, of course, go bad faster.

• Don’t forget to clean the containers. Fungi and other bacteria can grow on them, too.