Strait talk: Formosa visited

Chances are, you’ve overlooked Taiwan for its behemoth of a neighbor to the west, or for its similarly miniscule neighbor a little ways south.

Understandable.

On the one hand, you have China, the rising superpower which has managed to hold the world in thrall by the sheer size of its industry and rapid modernization; and on the other, you have Hong Kong, mecca of cosmopolitan living, international finance, and kick-ass martial arts films.

Thus, sandwiched (but not quite) between the two, Taiwan, for the most part, has been largely overlooked. And while I may not be speaking for everyone, this has certainly been the case for me. Despite my Chinese roots, all I knew about Taiwan was its strained relations with China, milk tea, and the power pop group, F4. Even the iconic Taipei 101 only came to my knowledge after reading Artemis Fowl: The Lost Colony, a story revolving around an Irish teenage criminal mastermind and his dealings with demons and faeries. Go figure.

And even though I was aware of the island’s reputation as one of Asia’s economic tigers, the simple fact of the matter was that Taiwan held no interest for me, except as a totally new place to visit with my family.

A relatively quiet section of Old Town

Arriving in the early morning, I was prepared for a marginal city; thoroughly modernized yet with no distinguishing flairs whatsoever. Once we stepped outside, however, I realized that the Taiwan of my initial indifference was deserving of anything but.

There was nothing marginal about the looming billboards dotting the roadsides, nor the sleek expressway leading straight to the city proper; nor, for that matter, the rugged green hills surrounding us on all fronts. Indeed, as we rolled into Taipei, I was properly floored by the fact that there was so much green. For some reason, my imaginings of the capital had always conjured slick concrete buildings, fast moving cars, and the monotony of so much automation. Nature was only supposed to exist as an afterthought, and yet, in Taiwan, it was almost one with the industrial landscape. Added to this, there remained a distinct “something” that differentiated Taipei from other ultramodern, cosmopolitan cities which I’ve visited in Asia (such as Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Tokyo, for instance). It was not until later that I realized what the “something” was — an air of dated modernity permeating the cityscape, and bringing a unique blend of the old and the new to its unsuspecting visitors.

Interestingly enough, the island has been modern for a pretty long time. After parting ways with the mainland in 1949, by the ‘70s, Taiwan had already built for itself a booming industrial economy, with one of the fastest growing per capita income in the region. This during a time when Communist China was still very much a poor, largely rural country picking up the pieces in Mao Zedong’s wake.

Today, brags our guide, Joe the Driver (no, really; check his Facebook), Taiwan is a proud democracy of around 23 million; a respectable slice of which is comprised of a capable, educated middle class. Joe himself was able to finish a degree in the UK; a feat, he says, not impossible if one knew how to grab the competitive opportunities being promoted by the state. Indeed, international competitiveness seems to be a key priority for Taiwan, something I’ve actually been able to witness in the form of all the varying expos, trade shows, and conferences advertised throughout the streets — just for the month of November, mind you. But really, what can be more indicative of Taiwan’s ambitions than Taipei 101, the most eloquent symbol of the nation’s prosperity?

The author and her family at the steps of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Photos by TIFFANY KING

For all this, however, Taiwan has been shunned by the international community, holding no place in the United Nations or any other international organization. With the continuing enmity between the mainland and Taiwan, most countries have abandoned political relations with the island in favor of staying on China’s good side. Sad, but true.

My stay in Taiwan lasted only four days, but I can say for sure that it was one of the most arresting places I’ve ever been to in my life (and I’ve been to quite a few countries myself). Within its aging cityscape is a hodgepodge of grandiose architecture, Zen gardens, bustling night markets, cultural artifacts, and excellent food. Not exactly attributes exclusive to Taiwan, of course, but all this is enhanced by the temperate weather, clean streets, and friendly people. You’ll be surprised at how much more enticing the sights and sounds are than the shopping (something most are better off doing in Hong Kong). A few minutes outside the city, you’re immediately greeted with a view of the mountains hugging the island all around, complemented by the lulling sounds of the nearby sea.

In not so many words, bottom line is, Taiwan is… beautiful.

A few places I visited and loved (and that absolutely must be visited when in Taiwan):

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall: The majesty of the pagoda-like building speaks for itself, as much a symbol of the nation as homage to the former president of Taiwan.  

National Palace Museum: If the French have the Louvre, then the Chinese have this — 3,000 years of civilization and counting. (I love this museum!)

Taipei 101: I don’t know what’s most amazing, the elongated pagoda structure of the building, the fact that it’s the second tallest in the world, the 1,010-meter-per-second elevator, or its massive air damper.

Gold Ecological Park: Up in the mountains, you not only get a glimpse of the former glory of Taiwan’s mining industry, but equally breathtaking views of the Yin Yang Sea and Teapot Mountain.

Jiu Fen (Old Town): A busy, winding alley with every manner of traditional confection and treat — with a surprise waiting at the top.

Yangmingshan National Park: Hot springs, cherry blossoms, venomous snakes, and hiking trails, what more could you ask for? Oh, yeah: the Seven Star Mountain — only the island’s tallest mountain.