Beyond shopping in Bangkok
October 10, 2003 | 12:00am
When I first began thinking about how I would write about one of the most famous cities in Thailand, my only requirement for myself was that it would not only be about the shopping. So as I threw some clothes in my suitcase with One Night in Bangkok playing in the background from my old Broadway album, Chess, I mulled over the allure of Bangkok sans shopping.
Many people have told me that Bangkok is very much like Manila what with the bargain havens and tiangges in every corner, traffic filling the streets, and a monsoon season that has rain perpetually falling on the city. I did see many similarities but the differences were far more interesting. While Bangkok did remind me a little bit of home (cab drivers especially), the city remained new, exotic, and waiting to be explored.
So after a rough first day in transit, getting to my hotel, unpacking, and trying to figure out all the light switches, my first night in Bangkok found me browsing through the street markets (which can be found on every single street) and enjoying an affordable and delightful traditional Thai massage. As it turns out, the Thais are even more into massages than we are and they have massage parlors that are open as late as two in the morning. (Another innovative idea: Foot massage parlors in the malls which can be seen full of men enjoying a foot spa while waiting for their women to finish shopping.)
Body pampered and eyes already spotting items I wanted to buy I headed back to the hotel (spotting a few elephants hanging out in front of 7-Eleven on the way) to recharge for the next morning.
The first was the Temple of the Golden Buddha. The story of this golden treasure is very much like a fairytale. Originally the statue was completely covered in plaster to protect it from enemies invading Thailand. Years later as it was being moved to the temple built specifically for it, part of the plaster was broken revealing the golden statue inside. Only then did the people realize it was the pure gold image of the Buddha. As I sat on my knees in the Golden Buddha temple I couldn’t help but note the beauty and majesty of the image.
The second temple was the Wat Pho or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. It’s no exaggeration to say that seeing this Buddha can easily change one’s life. The highly impressive gold plated Reclining Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters high. As it is an image of Buddha laying down rather than in his usual sitting position the Reclining Buddha is an image meant to represent Buddha after his death and his passing into nirvana.
Also on the temple grounds are four chedis (towering structures), constructed to honor the first three Chakri kings (two for King Rama III) and where their remains are entombed. There are also a massive 91 other chedis containing the remains of members of the royal family around the grounds along with chapels, rock gardens, an array of different types of statues, inscriptions, bell-towers and resident fortune tellers.
The last temple was the Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The temple grounds and the adjoining Grand Palace are one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city. One might easily need a whole day to walk through these grounds. The Buddha image though, which is actually made from jade and not emerald, is quite difficult to see positioned high above the heads of worshippers and tourists in a glass box.
After having spent the day in these temples I have to say it isn’t just the interesting Buddha images that make the wats worth visiting. Feelings of peace and happiness flow all around the temple grounds. Buddhist monks wrapped in bright orange robes wandered around in prayer and contemplation. Many stopped to chat and smile with the tourists. I was actually shocked to hear one of the monks I spoke with had actually visited the Philippines before and was quite fond of Baguio. They even allowed me to sit in on their prayer mediation chanting in the temple and it was one of the most peaceful and moving experiences I’ve had in a long time. For one brief shining moment sitting there with monks and people of all different races I really felt that life was all about unity and peace.
Muay Thai or Thai boxing is a martial art that has been practiced in Thailand for several decades. Originally beginning as a self-defense system against marauders at a time that hand-to-hand combat was the norm, Muay Thai has evolved into an art combining hands, feet, elbows, and knees that is now more commonly found in the boxing ring although Thailand’s army still integrates Muay Thai into their training regimen.
A trip to the fights is another must-do in Bangkok and being into martial arts myself it was even more of a treat for me. Regular fight nights are Tuesdays and Saturdays and 12 matches with five rounds each categorize the evening with one main event. Additionally, it isn’t just the exciting show of fighting prowess that makes the fights so enjoyable. A lively band provides upbeat and happy music and both the fighting corners (Red and Blue) are full of men and women who bet on the outcome of the matches and consequently cheer and clap louder than anyone else in the arena (it’s a show all on its own).
The main event though is still the Muay Thai fights themselves. The Thai boxers are little more than teenagers and I couldn’t help but feel like I was watching children (deceptively lethal children but children nonetheless) in the ring. With bodies as freakishly hard as stone, the fighters train for six hours a day with no day off while going to school as well. A fighter may begin his career at age 16. From then he usually fights until around 22 and is retired by the time he’s 24. It’s a quick career and a fast-burning glory but many boys in Thailand still dream of becoming Muay Thai boxing champions.
Personally, I enjoyed the matches immensely. After the last fight, I passed by the Twins Equipment shop to purchase some gloves and guards for the gym. Some of the Muay Thai fighters who saw me with bulging bags of supplies asked me who they’re for and when I answered that they were for me they were so pleasantly surprised that someone who apparently looked like as much of a weakling as moi was into boxing that they graciously gave me a few Muay Thai boxing tips.
Bargain deals and discount shopping are available everywhere you go and funky clothes, bags, belts, shoes, and accessories pour out of every stall you pass. Also for the more discerning shopper tired of swimming through the markets, the Emporium Center is home to well-known names such as Hermes, Gucci, and Armani. All in all, it is no exaggeration to call Bangkok as Asia’s one-stop shop for every shopping addict.
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