Larry lives on

In his lifetime, the late trendsetting restaurateur and erstwhile journalist Lorenzo “Larry” J. Cruz conceptualized and set up over 30 restaurants and branches. And today, the man’s presence is still strongly felt, with his vision of giving the public a complete dining experience with his personal stamp reflected in his impeccable tastes in furniture, art and food. Even posthumously, his restaurant concepts and exacting standards on food and service continue to thrive on with the opening of yet another outlet called Lorenzo’s Way. Its opening also marked the group’s 30th anniversary.

His last baby, Fely J in Greenbelt 5, named so as to honor his mother Felicidad de Jesus, never saw the “father” that sired her, but he was there from its conception to the last stages just before its birth. Abe, the very successful Pampango restaurant in Serendra, on the other hand, was named after his father (and my mentor) Emilio “Abe” Aguilar Cruz. This he saw grow to become a robust year-old establishment before he passed away.

So it seemed only fitting that Larry Cruz’s heirs honor their father/founder by naming the latest addition to the LJC Restaurant Group after him. Lorenzo’s Way in Greenbelt 5, which opened last March 2009, serves dishes Larry himself conceptualized and which became signature dishes at past and present LJC restaurants over the years: Café Adriatico’s Chocolate Eh; Solana’s Callos and Chateaubriand steak; Prego’s Laguna cheese caprese; Ang Hang’s Singaporean Race Course Road fish curry; Camp Gourmet’s hickory spare ribs; Bistro Burgos’ Akuw’a, a Yemeni oxtail stew; Bollywood’s paneer or home made cheese with tomato curry; Café Havana’s baked salpicao; Bistro Remedios’ pork knuckles; Larry’s Bar milkfish belly with fried glass noodles; Abe’s kare-kare; Abe’s Farm pigeon adobo; and Fely J’s signature jasmine rice with fried dilis (anchovies). These are just a few of Larry’s fave dishes listed on its menu, but its executive chef George Lizares says that he’ll prepare anything, even if it’s not on the menu.

Interior designer Denise de Castro says the decor of Lorenzo’s Way is reflective of Larry’s lifestyle, with his sophisticated tastes in furniture, mostly by his old friend Osmundo Esguerra, and the fabulous food he loved. This is her second project with the LJC Goup, Fely J being the first. LJC restaurants are proudly Filipino, reflecting Larry’s dictum of offering only the best. De Castro says she utilized old brick walls not just to serve as decorative touches, but as acoustic buffers as well. Antique stained-glass windows from an old church are resuscitated into partitions, and a free-standing divider that I made for Abe Cruz some 20 years ago (that makes it vintage, like me) found its way into the reception area. The walls are peppered with artworks from Larry’s enviable collection, including his portrait by the master painter Federico Aguilar Alcuaz.

At the helm of LJC operations is Lorna Ambas, Larry’s eldest of six children. She says that her father’s legacy to the company was hiring professionals who set the systems with his vision. The transition from a family run establishment to a corporate one was smooth. Even after his demise, LJC operations continued to run efficiently. Lorna works closely with Merle dela Peña, a major investor and Larry’s longtime partner, with whom he has two teenage ninjas Raphael and Leonardo. During Larry’s last few months, they assessed the various businesses, with the strongest brands being Café Adriatico, Abe, Fely J and Café Havana. Plans for branching out with these strong brands are in the offing. Larry J. Cruz’s lifestyle — and legacy — lives on.

As part of LJC Restaurant Group 30th year celebration, they are holding a festival of flavors at the SM Mall Of Asia, 2nd floor entertainment section, beside Cafe Adriatico. Here, Abe, Fely J, Bistro Remedios and Lorenzo’s Way will be featured in a limited run, starting with Abe (since May 31). The restaurants will be featured for two to three months. In addition, an exhibit on the history of the LJC group will be on display at SM MOA this June.

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Lorenzo’s Way is located at the ground floor of Greenbelt 5, Makati City. Open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. Tel: 729-0047.