Homme Run

B HIVE - Bianca Salonga - The Philippine Star

Men’s fashion has evolved to become more dynamic over the seasons. In the past years, the men’s shows in fashion capitals were largely dominated by beautifully crafted suits, impeccable coats and the most exquisite fabrics. Each era has also showcased slight variations in material and silhouette. To say the least, the style proposition for men’s fashion consistently reflected the times and their signs. 

This year, fashion’s most insightful designers are celebrating the active and multifaceted lifestyle of the modern man through pieces that are both sartorial as they are sports-inspired. What’s interesting to note is that the collections that hit the runway this Fall were not necessarily an antithesis to style as we once saw in the ‘90s during the heyday of grunge fashion. If anything, it was a coming together of function and style where effortless comfort beautifully coincided with Savile Row elements.

At the helm of the breakthrough was hip Swedish brand ACNE, which presented “winter beach” pieces for its Fall 2014 show. At the core of ACNE’s collection were function-friendly pieces in the coolest neutrals that presented new lengths and silhouettes for classic sports-inspired essentials like the parka, anorak or vest. The use of neoprene (the fabric du jour of the season) was also apparent throughout the show.

Alexander Wang was also on point this season with a cohesive collection of street-sport pieces for men. Once again utilizing neoprene, Wang explored new fabric combinations to create varied textures onto pieces that were each created for movement, ease and an effortless sense of chic. The street elements were but all too apparent in each piece but what made his proposition utterly unique was Wang’s brilliance at creating a look that morphed traditional men’s pieces into modern, multifunctional pieces.

Perhaps one of the most memorable and covetable fashion presentations this season was Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy. Having once been a fan of basketball, Tisci took elements from the sport — the lines of the court, fabric of the uniforms and logos — and translated them into high-fashion pieces. The result was no less than a hipster collection of trousers, tops and jackets that were easy yet apt for an opulent Fall runway show. This season showed that if anyone can turn sweater to high fashion, it’s Riccardo Tisci.

Surprising most of the fashion world was Angela Missoni for the Missoni, whose signature pieces have always been knits and resort-inspired pieces. The Missoni man for Fall 2014 is inspired by the surfer who is both a free spirit as he is a certified urbanite. The pieces presented were appropriate for city dressing as they were for an escape to pure shores.

There were coats and jackets utilizing shearling, mohair and yak wool that added to the texturized feel of the collection. Meanwhile pieces remained tailored to keep to the inherently polished look of Missoni. Then there was the much talked about collaboration between Missoni and All Star Chuck Taylor that reinforced this new identity that the house of Missoni means to introduce to the rest of the fashion world.

The Fall 2014 man is nothing like your quintessential Ivy League preppy. Neither is he the poster boy jock whose idea of a suit comprises a worn-in sweater and track pants.

This year celebrates the multifaceted man who is a hybrid of both — equal parts sartorial and sporty.


Photography by RXANDY CAPINPIN • Fashion styling by RYUJI SHIOMITSU • Model: LA Aguinaldo of Mercator










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