Sheer delight
B HIVE - Bianca Salonga () - September 4, 2011 - 12:00am

Elements of fashion fetish, a highly desaturated palette and severe pseudo androgynous silhouettes, define fashion for Fall 2011.

 It is always safe to assume that a dark color palette will resurface once Fall is well on its way. That being said, the usual question raised among spectators in the arena of style is how fashion’s visionaries will add more depth and character to a season that is almost always so predictable. In the past years, we have seen how designers brilliantly integrate new-fangled ideas into Fall’s somber hues. Some seasons have celebrated opulence through detail overload while others have opted for a more austere, minimalist take.

After all that had been said and done  or rather, sent down the runways  the collections for 2011 has once again showed an impressive display of ingenuity, inspiration and individuality. At Givenchy, for instance, creative director Riccardo Tisci brings forth his vision of seduction through peplum skirt suits with see-through sheer details. Tisci’s version of peek-a-boo glamour was achieved seamlessly through his distinctive approach in material selection that includes patent leather, organza and satin. 

Working from a similar plane was Louis Vuitton’s Marc Jacobs who had fetish and kink written all over his pieces for Fall. This, the designer created, with nary an apology for the faint of heart. The idea was to channel fashion’s voyeuristic inclinations through French maid-inspired uniforms, which, yet again, unsparingly utilized sheer to allow for that ever elusive glimpse of skin. The little details during the show  the presence of supermodels like Moss, stripper boots and diamond studded cuffs  only added to the provocative prowess that Jacobs exhibited.

As if taking queue from Black Swan, Ann Demeulemeester sent down pieces in  you guessed it  black, which were aimed to illustrate this season’s version of all that is fierce and fearless. There was a lot of references to the quintessential glamazon in this collection but if anything, it was Demeulemeester’s strong silhouettes that struck a chord, perfectly complemented by details such as corset lacing, bustles and pleats.

Mini-dresses are to Balmain as Le Modrian is to Yves Saint Laurent. Decarnin’s creations for Balmain this Fall offered a heady, ‘70s-inspired rendition of the once unforgiving body-hugging mini-dress. This year ushers in a looser silhouette that still imbibes Balmain’s signature party girl through intricate mosaic embellishments. The collection, quite surprisingly, also included slightly androgynous pieces as in the case of the cropped pant and sheer tuxedo shirt.

There are a good many that will always prefer a shadowy, gloom day palette regardless of season or occasion. And this is for good reason. As the most influential movers in fashion this season have shown, there are many sheer delights and fantasies that completely oppose our notion of all that shines or sparkles.

Photography by Seven BarRetto • Styling by Paris Roxas and Kevin Cusi • Hair and makeup by Lilian Yeung • Model: Samantha Lewis

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER AT GIVENCHY BALMAIN BLACK SWAN KEVIN CUSI LE MODRIAN LILIAN YEUNG
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