Trend Alert: Urban wild, wild West

Go west, young man." This was the byword of the Gold Rush, indicating the many opportunities the Wild West offered, an era that left us with some of the most lasting images of American culture throughout the world.

This summer, a mod take on the Western culture was seen on the catwalks. The urban cowgirl and Indians were riding high. Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Alice Roi, Donna Karan, Phoebe Philo of Chloé, Miuccia Prada, Nicole Farhi, Matthew Williamson at Givenchy, John Galliano for Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen and Roberto Cavalli integrated some Western ideas into their collections. Ralph Lauren even went to the extent of buying authentic Navajo belts and turquoise jewelry from the Southwest to use for his runway show.

Textured leather is the accessory statement of the season. Deluxe leathers like crocodile, lizard and snake featured strongly on bags, shoes and garbs. Macramé, faceted beads, patchworks, woven braids, and Native American prints decorated accessories and clothes.

Native Americans in the United States are often referred to as Indians. The term Indian evolved from the word Indio, meaning the people of the Indies, which Columbus used when he thought he had landed in the outlaying coasts of Asia. The mistake stuck throughout the centuries and has become common use in America. The most advanced civilizations developed in Mexico, Central and South America.

The original cowboys were Mexican Indians enslaved by Spanish conquerors who put them to work tending herds in their vast ranchos. Spanish military leader Hernan Cortez brought cattle when he came to America in 1519. His soldiers needed them as a source of food and leather in the New World. The cattle traveled with expeditions to feed those who were involved in military conquests. Some soldiers who decided to settle in various places, soon developed ranches.

Due to the terrain and climate, the Spanish had to adopt more common and practical clothing. Fortunately, they were already skilled at manufacturing leather goods. They were able to utilize both wild and domesticated animals to make such necessities as botas (boots), chaquetas (jackets), chalecos (vests), chapareras (chaps and leggings) and even the flat crowned wide-brimmed hat. These leather tanning and leather working skills were passed on to succeeding generations. As Spanish and Mexican families spread north and west, these skills were passed on to many others.

The cowboy hat and boots have endured through the centuries. The boots first arrived as high leather boots secured above the knee with thongs or tassels. Like the noble and proud Spaniards, fashionistas still make statements with exquisitely crafted boots using the most expensive and exotic leather. Because of its comfort, function and style, not much has changed from the original boots. For those who couldn’t afford boots or didn’t have the material to make them, soft leather moccasin-style tegua boots made from buckskin or gamoza were adopted. Spanish styles introduced fine shawls and broomstick skirts to Mexican and Native American women. Women would be commonly dressed in a short, full and colorful skirt with loose low-cut blouse and a rebozo or headscarf.

The end of the US-Mexican war in 1848 marked the most significant adoption of ranching culture by America’s non-Hispanic settlers. Anglo Texans copied everything Mexican. Mexican vaquero attire was adopted as an Anglo-American cowboy dress. From the word sombra (shade), came from sombrero, the Mexican cowboy hat. Under this sombrero, he wore a bandana or kerchief over his head. The chaqueta is gaudily embroidered with braids and had fancy barrel buttons. A curiously shaped article called calzoneras were intended for pantaloons with the outer part of the leg open from the hip to the ankle, with the borders set with filigree buttons and the whole trimmed with tinsel lace. The sarape or poncho was carried on the back of the saddle or worn over the vaquero’s shoulder. It offered protection from the rain and cold. From the wealthy haciendero to the poorest peon — all took pride in their appearance.

So like the cowboys of the past, take pride in yourself! Summer’s urban west is riding high. Wear cowboy shirts to add an American classic edge with a full skirt, a mini, capri pants or jeans. Denim continues to be a wardrobe staple. Plaids and stripes strike the look. Tie scarves on the neck or on the head. Layer bangles and necklaces for an added oomph. Western style boots paired with a soft, sexy and feminine garb is oh so cool! Pair a masculine leather belt with full and sheer dresses. Fringes on accessories and clothes rule! Remember that it’s the mix that makes it mod. The Wild West inspires a whole new look. There’s another role to play this summer. Isn’t it fun?

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Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com.