Hapag & Roots reunite in Siargao
After collaborating in Manila months before, Manila restaurant Hapag and Roots Siargao reunited this time at Roots on the island of Siargao for two nights only. This was for the third series of Kaos Table, a series of gastronomic experiences where Roots explored new ways of approaching fine dining rooted in creativity and collaboration with a strong association with Filipino producers and ingredients.
Hapag reworked some selections from their current eastern Mindanao menu in Manila, adapting them to resonate with Roots’ culinary perspective. Chef Kevin “Nav” Navoa of Hapag explained, “The dishes we brought were adapted from the Western Mindanao menu to reflect the culinary style of the Roots team. This decision was made to align with our objective of expanding knowledge and appreciation for the region of Mindanao. We realized that Siargao would be a great place to showcase this as well.”
Two of these dishes were two I loved in Manila: Siyagul — a dish from Basilan typically made with stingray cooked in coconut and spices but Hapag used swordfish cooked in burnt coconut, turmeric, and coconut mornay sauce served on a smoked fish cracker and Riyandang Maranao a beef stew cooked very similar to beef rendang cooked Maranao style slowly in coconut milk and toasted spices.
Roots developed new dishes that still honored their foundational approach such as their Caprese Salad — a purée of dehydrated heirloom tomatoes with oven-roasted watermelon cherries, Thai basil leaves and flowers, and ampalaya (bitter melon) oil topped with grated Asin Tibuok from Bohol; Surf and Turf — skewered rabbit meat glazed them with rabbit demi-glace (made from the rabbit bones), reduced with tapuey (Proudly Promdi rice wine from Ilocos Norte), and crackling made from rabbit skin served with cockle broth for that aromatic ocean essence; and my favorite Fried Mantis Shrimp Taco. This taco was no surprise since two of the Roots team are Mexican. The base of the taco was tiniguib, a native variety of corn fromFresh Start, Bacolod, which they blend with wheat and squid ink to make black tortillas. This is filled with mantis shrimp caught in Siargao with hollandaise using a reduction made from the shrimp heads, and paired with a creamy purée of kadyos (pigeon peas) sawtooth coriander chalaca.
Creative director of Roots Inés Castañeda remarked, “In the case of Roots, we allowed ourselves to play with creativity, by developing new dishes that we hadn’t offered before. But we did so without losing our essence: the fusion of our culinary roots with local ingredients, always ensuring that the local ingredient remains the true protagonist of every dish.”
Hapag sommelier Erin Ganuales-Recto added, “Working with the Roots team was special because of their resourcefulness and deep respect for local ingredients. There was a shared love for storytelling through food, and the team welcomed us with heart and humor.”
Hapag’s other chef Thirdy Dolatre recalled, “It was amazing to witness firsthand how the Roots team goes about their foraging and sourcing from the markets. You can really see the community they’ve built and the strong relationships they’ve nurtured with farmers, fishermen, and local purveyors. Their ingredient-first approach is deeply inspiring, and the way they transform these local ingredients into dishes that are not only thoughtful but also incredibly delicious is, honestly, inspiring.”
Director of community engagement at Roots, Daan Overgaag noted, “From the moment we learned about their approach to gastronomy, we knew we shared so much in common; not just a deep reverence for local ingredients, but also a youthful spirit, a strong creative drive, and a commitment to meaningful work.” These shared values formed a strong backbone of this special collaboration. For his part, Roots chef Filippo Turrini shared, “We have similar stories — starting from humble beginnings and building our visions with deep respect for local ingredients, which play a critical role in both our approaches to food. Their passion, creativity, and relentless pursuit of expanding the horizons of Filipino cuisine are not only inspiring, but also offer a meaningful opportunity for us to better understand our host country through its food.”
The Roots founders, though all non-Filipinos, have positioned themselves as learners and supporters of the Philippines food scene from the start, rather than attempting to define Filipino cuisine and have closely worked with the local community. Director of growth and impact at Roots Ricardo Miranda de Sousa pointed out, “Collaborations like this open windows into diverse approaches to gastronomy and serve as bridges that connect cultures, philosophies, and people. For us, they are also a way to position Siargao, its ingredients, farmers, and fisher folk on the world map of gastronomy, highlighting the island’s unique biodiversity and landscapes.”
Hapag prepared a Taho Panna Cotta made from soy milk pudding, mulled wine sago, strawberries Components: soy milk panna cotta, mulled wine sago pearls, and strawberries while the Roots team made Wild Honey — a honey cake with white chocolate namelaka (similar to a mousse) infused with cinnamon, creamy sabayon with 15-year-old rum and honey, natural honeydew honey, and local cherry (from Siargao) marmalade. The perfect endings for a beautiful evening.
This collaboration embodied the spirit of Kaos Table — not just a dinner, but a convergence of values rooted in the community, and care for the Filipino landscape.
Director of art and design at Roots Marina Castañeda concluded, “Throughout both collaborations, we shared countless moments that brought our teams closer: foraging together, sharing meals and stories, laughing, traveling, and exchanging knowledge. These weren’t just professional milestones, but deeply human experiences that made the journey unforgettable.”It was also Marina who did the beautiful artwork depicting the dishes served and these were displayed on a tiny easel on the table when each plate was served. Guests were given the complete menu cards to take home as a souvenir.
(Check out Roots if ever you find yourself in Siargao. Follow them on Instagram @roots.siargao.)
Follow me on Instagram @pepperteehankee
- Latest
