Guiuan: A Diamond in the Rough

CEBU, Philippines - There are so many places in the Philippines that never cease to surprise and to astound.  One of these is Guiuan, in Eastern Samar, a sliver of land right at the junction between Leyte Gulf and the Philippines Sea.  Guiuan is a diamond in the rough.  The place isn’t a mainstay in any ordinary traveller’s bucket list but the presence of Guiuan in that quintessential list is what sets the neophytes and the explorers apart.

Guiuan used to be a US base in World War II so consider this place a Yankee hive—that is, if it were still the 1940s.  Today, not much is left of the American occupation except maybe for a few remnants of airplane runways that have never been used again since the time the base was closed.  However, the Yankees weren’t the first foreigners to set foot in Guiuan as Ferdinand Magellan as his crew beat the Americans to it when they first buried their feet in the shores of Homonhon Island in the 1520s.

The fun in Guiuan starts when you cross over to Calicoan Island, one of the most laidback surf towns in the country.  Unlike Baler and Pagudpud, you can breathe a sigh of relief given that you don’t really have to share the beach with a battalion of tourists and surfers out to catch the best wave.  In Guiuan’s Calicoan Island, the waves are all yours to ride and subdue.

Take a shot at night surfing along ABCD Beach with Calicoan Island’s surfing crew, the Calicoan boys and learn a few tricks from these wave riders.  While surfing under the heat of the sun can give you a jolt of excitement, there’s nothing like surfing underneath a full moon to make you feel like you are the master of the waves.

Travel Tips:

When to go: October when the waves are crazy and when the Odyssey Surf Competition takes place.  This is the best time to watch and learn from the pros.  Surfing season is from April to November.

Where to stay: Surf Camp is your best bet.  Located right beside ABCD Beach, the resort also offers beginners classes in surfing.  If that’s too pricy for you, seek out the Calicoan Boys in ABCD Beach.  They are the only ones with a hut and a hammock facing the ocean.

Getting there: From Cebu, take a direct flight to Tacloban.  From Tacloban, you can reach Guiuan by bus through Duptours or Van-Vans which charge roughly P120-140 per head.  The bus ride will take three hours which gives you enough time to take a nap before you jump into the heart of the action.  Transfers to Surf Camp may also be arranged from Tacloban. 

Getting around: When in Guiuan, you can either take the tricycle, which is the town’s local transpo, or explore the area by foot.

Chow Time: feast on sea food at Surf Camp while reminiscing how you were able to tame Calicoan’s wild, wild waves.  Their Singaporean Chili Crab is a must-try when staying at Surf Camp.  You may also opt to bond with the Calicoan Boys who can grill a real mean feast with the day’s catch.

Take Home: A surf board.

Watch Before You Surf: Billabong Odyssey, A Deeper Shade of Blue, and Five Summer Stories will get you in the zone for some surf. (FREEMAN)