Anawangin: Zambales’ optical illusion

CEBU, Philippines - Anawangin Cove is a landscape of stark contrasts. Just as you have feasted your eyes on a fine stretch of pristine sand embracing the deep blueness of the South China Sea, you will be surprised to find not coconut trees but a vast forest of agoho trees—keen doppelgangers of pine trees—rising from the shoreline and spreading out into a think, feathery forest reaching as far as the foot of the surrounding rust-colored peaks of Mt. Pundaquit.

Borne from the inevitable eruption of Mount Pinatubo in 1991, Anawangin is literally a phoenix reborn from the ashes.  For although Mount Pinatubo’s eruption is more closely linked to death and destruction, few have realized that on the other end of the spectrum, it gave birth to a scenic cove saturated with nature’s deep, penetrating hues.

How the agoho trees made their way into the cove is a mystery although the people of Zambales are quick to say that it was the flurry of ash and fire that carried the agoho cones, conveniently planting them right off the shore.  Anawangin’s snowy white shore is a far cry from the pulverized shell and coral shores sun worshippers are used to from the likes of El Nido and Boracay. Instead, the mixture of volcanic ash and sand have lent Anawangin Cove’s crescent shoreline a bleached, silvery glow that comes in stark contrast to the deep blue waves that lick the sand in a steady rhythm. 

Once a carefully-guarded secret by seasoned trekkers who have scaled the jagged peaks of Mt. Pundaquit, Anawangin has become a nest for campers, sun-worshippers, and mountain climbers who simply cannot decide between Baguio’s scenic, mountainous terrain or Boracay’s immaculate sand and glittering sea.

Travel Tips

When to Go: January and February.

Getting There: From Cebu, take a direct flight to Manila, your jump-off point to Anawangin Cove in Zambales.  From the Pasay/Cubao stations, take the bus to San Antonio, Zambales.  The ride lasts around 2.5 to 3 hours.  From San Antonio, take a trike and head to Pundaquit where you can hire a boat and start cruising to Anawangin Cove.  Avid trekkers may want to take the longer route: a six-hour hike through the ridges of Mount Pundaquit.  Here, you may need to consult a seasoned mountaineer.

Where to Stay: Pitch a tent underneath the canopy of the agoho trees and doze off to the lullaby of crashing waves.

Chow Time: There are no swanky restaurants around.  Besides, the best way to enjoy Anawangin is to enjoy your meals scout-style.  Pack a cooler and get ready to grill some meat.

Trip Tip: Buy your own tent instead of renting one.  The rental is approximately the same cost as buying a new tent.