Small City, Big Journey: Savoring Singapore

There might be potentially harmful haze now hanging over the usually sunny city that is Singapore, as well as a bit of that acrid smell that comes from burning wood, but never you mind.

Hopefully, those pesky slash and burn fires in Sumatra or elsewhere will be dealt with severely by the Indonesian authorities, and the forests will stop going up in smoke. Meanwhile, perhaps now is the time to carefully plan that awesome trip to the Lion City, so that when the psi levels go down and the smoke clears, your vacation itinerary will be ready for full implementation.

Where to go?   So many places to choose from nowadays, from the usual tourist traps to out of the way destinations that provide bespoke memories.   Sure, take the Singapore Flyer and get a bird’s eye view of this supremely modern city-state, or rocket to the top of the Marina Bay Sands and soak in an infinity pool like no other.   Gamble with the high rollers (free entry for foreign passport holders, which means non-Singaporeans) at the Sands or check out the culturati offerings at the durian-inspired The Esplanade.

All of these have major touristic values guaranteed to fill your camera to the maximum gigabyte level, and certainly, give you memories to last a lifetime. You won’t go wrong if you choose the well trodden path, but there are plenty of alternatives as well.

Looking for funky boutiques and unique start-ups?   Then head to Haji Lane, a tiny alley where independent labels have come home to roost.   Quaint cafes mingle with designer brands as well as curio stores, and there’re always new finds to be made in this three-block stretch.

For example, an original bicycle store that sells, well, not your speed racers but those old fashioned bikes with prams or hampers in front, can be found here.   Vintage clothing stores go hand in hand with kopi roti kiosks, and in one such store called Enolagay (I never discovered what it meant) I found these original mustard colored cropped stretch pants that had amazing red gingham detailing you simply cannot find elsewhere.

Want to shop for art?   Then head to the Gillman Barracks at Lock Road, an old garrison now ingeniously converted to a center for Asian contemporary art.   Fourteen galleries or so are housed here, serving many diverse tastes.   From the Philippines, you can find The Drawing Room as well as Silverlens, ably representing our country and promoting Filipino artists.   Try not to spend too much on the amazing art on offer, although, that might be a bit challenging, as some prices are simply staggering.   For example, the Koyama Gallery carries Yoshitomo Nara, a personal favorite, who will only be affordable if you are a multi-millionaire.

If you don’t have the budget but you want some exposure in art, try the Singapore Art Museum, or SAM, as it’s fondly known by the locals.   For a minimal entry fee, you can savor art from the world over.   Or, there are smaller art galleries by Orchard Road, like within the Mandarin Gallery mall, which carry art catering to all persuasions.

What about the Singapore Tyler Print Institute where the best in print art can be seen, and is produced?   BenCab and Ronald Ventura have shown here, and you can see samples of Lichstenstein’s pop art like Wonder Woman housed in its museum.   Off by the side of the Institute, and right by Robertson Quay, you may want to see the Singapore Art Bridge, as the Alkaff Bridge is more popularly known. Designed by no other than our very own Pacita Abad, the technicolor pedestrian bridge is a whimsical ode.

After all that walking around, make sure to get some rest before you embark on the nocturnal activities.   Food should be on top of your list to replenish your energy, and there’s a multitude of restaurants and food joints catering to every budget.   Chicken rice (what we know as Hainanese chicken) the favorite dish of locals, can be found in almost every corner, as are the barbecue sticks which are hawked by street vendors.   For those with higher budgets, there’s Jones the Grocer or Paul, the French bistro, and even Dean & de Luca.

One must try is Wild Honey, where dozens of breakfast menu items are served all day.   Try the Aussie breakfast, where sirloin is served with cholesterol overloaded eggs and cheese, or the Portobello Road, with mushrooms and poached eggs.   Make sure to get there early, as the restaurant doesn’t accept reservations, and the place is always packed.

After eating, it’s time to head to the flashing lights and groove music. Clarke Quay and Chijmes are your best bets, with a variety of bars and clubs that attract all sorts.   You might also wish to check if there are special parties in Sentosa Island.   Those are worth a visit, if you have the patience to travel a bit farther or the spirit for adventure.

There’s also an active gay scene, with Singapore trying to attract the pink dollar.   Bars like Tantric and DYMK (Does Your Mama Know) do brisk business in Chinatown, attracting the expat crowd as well as boisterous locals whom you would not have seen 15 years ago in the formerly repressive government of Lee Kuan Yew.   (Doesn’t DYMK remind you of Cebu’s own DTM a.k.a. Don’t Tell Mama?).

Now though, the gay scene is booming with discotheques like Taboo and on some nights, Zouk.   Just this end of June, the Pink Dot event was held where more than 20,000 supporters showed up to celebrate diversity. Another tourist-worthy and camera-snapping event, if you had been lucky enough to catch it.

After the countless hours hoofing it in the predictably humid weather, you’re probably looking forward to a good night’s sleep.   Singapore boasts hotels a-plenty, with boutique hotels being the best bet for budget conscious travelers.   The Re Hotel has funky interiors, and the Gallery Hotel has an art collection within its halls.   The majestic Fullerton, with its stately atmosphere, could be an option, if price is no object.   (There are now two other Fullerton affiliates nearby, so don’t get confused.). If searching for a hotel is a challenge for you, the Agoda site can assist you in locating hotels within your budget and desired location.

Choose a hotel with comfy beds, as you’ll need all the recharging you can get, to make sure you’re ready for another day’s adventure.   If the room comes with breakfast, all the better.   If you can afford it, Swissotel Stamford Hotel has one of the best breakfast buffets ever, with its selection of exotic fruits, mouth-watering cheeses, freshly baked bread and pastries, and farm fresh eggs cooked anyhow you like it.    The Shangri-la Sentosa, lorded over by General Manager Ben Bousnina, who we fondly remember in the Mactan Shang, also has a scrumptious breakfast spread that can tempt you into gorging until  noon.

But better resist that temptation.   With so much waiting outside (and we haven’t even tackled shopping at Takashimaya, Paragon, or all those other Orchard Road retail therapy altars yet), staying by the poolside resting your stuffed stomach is no way to spend a day in Singapore.