Sweet Home Capiz
November 17, 2002 | 12:00am
A recent trip back to my late mom’s hometown made me realize that, to borrow a line from Sweet Home Alabama, "sometimes what you’re looking for is right where you left it." I was truly bewitched and charmed by the gracious people, lifestyle, succulent seafood and ambience.
Upon the invitation of Governor Vicente Bermejo, executive assistant IV Alfonso "Bo" Bediones, city tourism officer Boy Aguirre and councilor Mark Ortiz, I took a 45-minute flight to the capital of Capiz, Roxas City, which was voted the cleanest and greenest city in the Western Visayas.
Located on the northeast portion of Panay Island, Capiz is one of the six provinces that compose the Western Visayas region. A major contributor to the aquamarine industry in the country, it is called the "Seafood Capital of the Philippines." Blue marlin, tuna, prawns, shrimps, seaweed, eels, mussels, squids, crabs and oysters are plentiful in this province. Would you believe, in MKA-SMP, the oyster center of the Visayas, a sack of 50 kilos of fat and juicy oysters costs only P150? Proprietor Cano Altamia Jr. boasts export-quality seabass (P160/kilo) red snapper (P180/kilo) and lapu-lapu (P480/kilo).
Another must-visit place is the Fishing Port of Libas, where all the seafood from nearby islands are sold daily. Here, a buyer can find a 250-pound stingray, feisty fish, giant eels and other succulent mollusks.
"Capiz is a province where myth and reality merge," said Bryan Mari Argos of the mayor’s office. There’s a tale, Argos continued, that surfaced during the devastation brought by the 1985 super typhoon Undang. The story tells of a huge tidal wave that was seen approaching the province and the city from Bay-bay beach. The people living along the beach said they witnessed the entire shoreline recede two kilometers away, only to look up and see a huge black wave forming overhead. The people who witnessed the wave said they saw a lady walking along the beach carrying a baby. The lady raised her hand as if commanding the wave to subside then the howling wave became a light spray of salt water. The province and the city were spared. Those who witnessed the incident claimed that the lady they saw was the Blessed Virgin carrying the Infant Jesus. The Virgin is the province and the city’s protector, and the people believe that she will never fail Capiz and Roxas City.
Capiz is a place of mystery and enchantment. It boasts breathtaking natural and manmade wonders. One can go spelunking in its awesome caves or bask in the glory of pristine beaches. Check out Tucad Reed; the beaches of Casanayan and Buntod; and the islands of Napti and Ivisan to experience a real laid-back lifestyle. Other enchanting attractions are the architectural features of the Panay and Dumalag churches built in the 18th century. The Santa Monica Church in Panay houses the biggest bell in Southeast Asia. Cast from 76 sacks of coins contributed by citizens, it measures seven feet in height and diameter, and weighs 10.4 tons.
What better way to share our insights about this simply bewitching place than over a sumptuous dinner of Capiz crabs, prawns and scallops in garlic sauce, steamed lapu-lapu, sizzling squid and garlic rice at the Gallerie Coffee Shop of the President’s Inn in the heart of the Roxas City plaza. Taking its name after the brilliant and gifted President Manuel Acuna Roxas, who was born just a block away, this charming boutique hotel is definitely the best address in town. The personalities who have made the President’s Inn their home sweet home in Capiz include First Gentleman Mike Arroyo, Senator Tessie Oreta, Governor Chavit Singson. Among the showbiz people who have stayed here are Anthony Pangilinan, Paolo Bediones, Ara Mina and Jolina Magdangal.
The splendid architecture, antiques, relics and memorabilia of Spanish-Filipino influence are all part of its charm. All the porcelain jars displayed in the hotel were excavated in the Philippines while the headboards of the hotel beds were obtained from a century-old Spanish home. In the corridor of the second floor is a beautiful Chinese robe with carved ivory buttons donated by a prominent family of the province while all the wooden saints and valuable paintings are from Capiz or the Western Visayas area. Uniquely executed, each suite is named after a Philippine President, making guests feel like a member of the First Family! The cuisine, service and ambiance are truly world-class.
When I asked Bo Bediones what the greatest attraction of his province is, he immediately replied, "The people are the most valuable attraction." In an interview with Panublion Museum curator Ofelia Rendon, she enthused that the Capizeño is more likely to have a mixture of Malayan, Chinese, and Spanish ancestry. The fun-loving Capizeños, she added, are particular about their public appearance, proud of their ancestry, aristocratic in their bearing. Among them are heirs of landed estates, of nobility dating as far back as the Spanish regime of the gobernadorcillos and capitanes.
"Deeply religious and hospitable, the Kapisnon are highly sociable and lavish in their dealings with friends and visitors. The Kapisnon speaks a Hiligaynon dialect that is quite distinct from the dialect of the people from Iloilo," Ofelia added. And even when Kapisnons are disagreeing with each other, they still seem to be pleasantly agreeing for there is a lack of harshness in the sound of their language.
The gentle, affectionate and loving traits of the people of Capiz are powerfully and creatively articulated in the festival Sinadya Halaran (Joy in Sharing), which is celebrated from Dec. 4 to 8. Sinadya sa Halaran is actually two district festivals fused into one and now holds the distinction of being one of the province’s most important events. It is a unique Capizeño way of thanking the Lord and the Immaculate Conception for the bounty harvest. The festival boasts a grand fireworks display and higantes or papier mache giants, while the night parade features fully-lighted and decorated tricycles and tribes and a grand dancing parade in city streets.
I had a taste of heaven in Capiz, even if there was no fiesta. I can just imagine the Sinadya sa Halaran which will be a spectacle. With or without a festival, pack your bags and spend a weekend in Capiz and Roxas and you will surely marvel at what you will find.
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