Michael Cinco: ‘Ready-to-wear has always been my dream’

Superstar designer and designer to the stars Dubai-based Catbalogan-born Michael Cinco is in town over the weekend to grace the opening of couture-infused prêt-à-porter label Couturissimo — and the experience is making him break a sweat. We have the store to ourselves an hour before the opening event and he admits: “I’m nervous!”

He’s nervous about meeting Kat Florencio for the first time, known for TechnoMarine Philippines and My Diamond with husband Raffy, now responsible for bringing in the Asian Couture Foundation initiative to the Philippines. It’s also Michael’s first foray into RTW now in his home country.

Kat, on the other hand, is excited. “More than anything, it was perfect timing,” she divulges to the STAR. She was missing a luxury apparel label in her company structure when BCBG Max Azria had to file for bankruptcy protection in February 2017 and close 120 stores, including its Manila location. “We just got introduced to Emily (Hwang), vice president of the Asian Couture Foundation. We met Emily and her husband one weekend and we thought it’d be a great fit. The fact that Michael Cinco was on board made more sense to do it. I like the idea of making couture available to many people. Couturissimo is basically that. Other than that, you would never be able to own a Michael Cinco or even the other designers under Couturissimo.”

Couturissimo is in the Greenbelt 5 space where BCBG once was and carries pieces from the debut fall/winter 2017 collection by Michael and Indonesian designer Sebastian Gunawan that showed in Paris Couture Week 2016. Drops will be attuned to international release dates; the spring/summer collection that showed in London Fashion Week will arrive late March to April. (Tip for serious Michael Cinco fans: high-ticket pieces only available for pre-order online and elsewhere are currently on hand.)

Michael’s designs for Couturissimo call to mind a Claude Monet English garden with prints on lush fabrics like brocade and organza and intricate patterns on Chantilly lace, appliques and embroidery. The silhouettes and execution bear his couture signatures yet are scaled to midi-dresses and LBDs. Floor-length pieces, just like his couture gowns, appear to float when worn.

Finally, Kat arrives beaming, wearing the Betty floral mini dress, and Michael is visibly relieved; how a woman feels in a dress of his creation is what all of this is about. The grandeur of his couture and foray into RTW is meant to make more women feel more beautiful, happy in the way he knows how. We hear all about it and more from Michael himself.

PHILIPPINE STAR: For 15 years, you’ve worked strictly with couture. When did you feel you were ready to take on ready-to-wear?

MICHAEL CINCO: I’m a member of the Asian Couture Federation along with other couture designers from countries like Japan and Thailand. It was in a meeting that we all decided to come up with a prêt-à-porter (line) that was still couture. The governors and the president chose me to do the first line. I was already planning to do this for a long time and I’m glad I had the chance to showcase my vision in ready-to-wear form.

How would you describe Philippine fashion now?

I think it could be in a better condition because Philippine designers are still overcome by foreign brands. Most Filipinos still buy more from high street labels like Zara, H&M and Uniqlo, but that’s for everyday wear. Most still prefer Filipino designers only for special occasions that require formal gowns.

Can Couturissimo change that?

I hope it can. Sometimes we need to wear something nice, like wearable art that we can treasure that’s not necessarily formal, even when it’s not your wedding or debut. We want to try to let the Filipina appreciate the value of a dress that they buy.

Being Dubai-based, how do you feel now that your creations are finally in Philippine stores?

It has always been my dream, actually. I get a lot of inquiries from Filipina clients who want to buy some of my clothes, but I always tell them that I don’t have a prêt-à-porter line. It’s good for them now that they can afford mini-couture.

Have you thought about what it could have been like, had you started your career in Manila?

It’s all about the money. The money is in Dubai. They’re willing to pay a lot of money for a certain couture dress. I was about to start in the Philippines, but it was so hard. At the time, there was a lot of competition. I decided to work in Dubai as my first venture. When I can hold my own, that’s the time I want to put up a fashion house here in the future.

Now, about your Couturissimo line. Which is the hero piece?

This is my favorite piece. (He picks up the Pia crossed-back gown.) We created the print from a painting I found — I forgot the name — and we made it into a brocade fabric. It’s so detailed, it’s backless — look at the pleats. They slim the waist. There’s a shorter version (the Dana). You have to try it on to know the difference. (He walks over to the Winona floral organza gown.) We made this print, and printed it in organza. We did some beading all the way to the back to make it more couture.

About half of the collection is an inspired take on the little black dress. Why the fixation on LBDs?

Everyone looks good in black. I always wear black. It’s the safest color, but it doesn’t have to be just black. It can be very intricate with beadwork or lace. (He points to Ambra wool-blended little black dress.) I personally made the lace design. It looks like a cobweb now, but when you wear it, it’s actually butterfly wings.

How were you able to work with lower price points?

The price points are decided by the federation, but they gave me a certain budget. I did the design, I created the samples, up to the embroidery samples. In couture, it is something more elaborate. For Couturissimo, it’s almost couture, but simpler.

What is the most challenging dress you’ve ever made?

Every dress I make is challenging because I have to make sure each client is very happy. Considering that, it would have to be the wedding dress I made for Victoria Swarovski, made of 500,000 Swarovski crystals. She’s the Swarovski heiress, so I tried to challenge myself to make something grand that she and the people around her would love. It has a six-meter removable train. It is one of the most expensive wedding gowns ever made.

Tell us about your Filipino clients.

I get Filipino clients for wedding and prom gowns. I just did the 18th birthday ball gown of the Duterte granddaughter. Marian Rivera is my favorite. I made her wedding dress. It took me three to six months to complete.

Any memorable stories with your Hollywood clients?

To be honest, I have never met the Hollywood celebrities I have dressed. The only one I met is Mariah Carey. She requested me during her fitting in Dubai last year. Normally, I’m too shy but she was so humble in person. The others, I just send clothes — to Jennifer Lopez, to Beyoncé, to Lady Gaga, to Rihanna, to Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears. I deal with the stylists and my PR in Hollywood.

That’s already a dream list. Are there still any dream names left unticked?

I’ve sent so many dresses to Angelina Jolie and Cate Blanchett, but they never wore any of my outfits yet. Too bad. Madonna is my dream client. I made so many clothes for her world tour two years ago but she never wore any of them.

What’s next for you and Couturissimo?

I will carry my own bridal brand under Couturissimo. It will be Michael Cinco Bridal under Couturissimo. I hope it will also be here in Manila! I get so many brides who cannot afford my regular price for couture, but this one, it’s so much more affordable. I hope they will be very happy.

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Couturissimo is in G/F, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati.