Global purple craze brightens hopes for Philippines ube farmers

(Conclusion)

Eating ube for survival

MANILA, Philippines —  Charred remains of a tuber were found in two different cave sites in the Philippines dating back some 11,000 years ago.

Archaeologists believe it to be Dioscorea alata, or ube. The first archeological evidence was found in Ille cave in Palawan and the other in Occidental Mindoro.

That historical discovery makes ube one of the oldest crops to be cultivated in the country to survive. Imagine, 11,000 years ago was the last Ice Age, and yet Aeta farmers still grow ube, and still for survival.

During the idle time for the tuber’s maturity, Aeta farmers turn to ube for their daily sustenance especially when their finances have run dry.

It’s a simple recipe, Cabalic says. Boil the ube. Peel it. Then sprinkle some sugar or monosodium glutamate – in Filipino parlance, vetsin – for some umami.

Sometimes, they cook it over a small bonfire or grill it, maybe just like how it was done 11,000 years ago.

“Mabubusog ka at saka masarap din,” Cabalic says.

But Cabalic also dreams of more for ube, for himself, for his family.

If given the chance, he wants to be able to export his organically grown ube.

Aeta farmers are hoping to be given government support through provision of necessary machinery and facilities to do value-adding so that they can earn more.

Industry players note that exporting value-added ube products is a better route to uplift the welfare of Filipino farmers.

For example, ube powder fetches as high as P1,800 per kilo in the international market today, Nieves says.

“Kaya ko po iwan ang ibang mga tanim namin basta po magtuloy-tuloy lang itong takbo ng ube,” Cabalic says.

In the meantime, Gomez says they are inclined to raise the prices of their ube as well as delivery fees this month to cope with the consequences of the Middle East war and ensure that Aeta farmers earn comfortably.

Maximizing ube’s future

The future of ube lies within its own skin. The skin is rich in anthocyanin, which are water-soluble pigments that provide ube its rich purple coloration.

Extracting these pigments can move beyond the usual food use. It can become a natural food dye and colorant in beauty products as the world phases out synthetic colorations in various uses.

“The question now is how do we extract the deep purple color for higher applications?” Caballero says.

At present there is no technology that allows for such processing. And so, often, ube’s peeled skins are waste, both in the farm and at the processing level.

Studies also show that the anthocyanins are not just for colors.

It also has nutraceutical characteristics due to its antioxidants and antimicrobial properties that may help improve visual and neurological health and provide protection against non-communicable diseases, according to a study published in the Food and Nutrition Research journal in 2017.

Another study published in the Heliyon journal last year indicated that bioactive compounds of ube have the potential to treat menstrual disorders.

The potential and future of ube is as bright and clear as its color: the current spotlight it is experiencing is just the beginning – for farmers, exporters and the Philippines.

“It’s a global ube craze, yes, but it is not a fad. This will be sustained and it can be sustained. It will withstand the tests of time,” Caballero said.

Back at Sapang Uwak, the setting of the sun lends faint orange hues over the mountains of Porac. Cosme sits on a makeshift wooden chair. He looks at the soles of his feet, all cracked and dusty.

The waiting time begins. Ten months to be exact until the next harvest of ube commences. It’s in time for Christmas, they say.

“Kami pong mga Aeta ay galing sa alabok. Ang pagsasaka, ang ube, ang aming buhay,” Cosme says.

“Sa alabok kami nagmula, at sa alabok kami babalik,” he says while the sun sinks into the mouth of Mount Pinatubo.

This special report was produced by senior journalism students at the University of Santo Tomas for their agricultural journalism elective course under STAR reporter Jasper Arcalas.