True to form
MANILA, Philippines - While Carl Jan Cruz is no stranger to the international design scene, a conscious decision to set up a global independent clothing line in Metro Manila has given the designer a distinct viewpoint unique to his eponymous label. This rings especially true in his latest collection, as his organic yet studied approach to fashion design is clearly reflected in his garments — a range of relaxed stripe shirts, wide-cuffed denims, cocoon checked coats, and super-soft side-slit trousers manipulated to mimic the fabric movements of sinampay clothing and the humble basahan to evoke a sense of ease and practicality that is embedded in the brand’s DNA. “After all,” Cruz explains, “fashion for me is about securing the necessities of life.” Set to launch his latest collection tomorrow, YStyle sits down with the young designer to discuss his vision and direction for the burgeoning brand.
YSTYLE: Tell us your inspiration for the collection. How did it come about?
CARL JAN CRUZ: Since the past collection, I’ve been inspired by the challenges it had — technically, aesthetically, and the experiences that it brought (dialogue and interactions with people whom identified with Carl Jan Cruz). I felt the need to approach the aesthetic of Carl Jan Cruz that’s building up through these archives of garments with a strong sense of reductionism. Extracting silhouettes, textures and function that I’d like to tackle and what felt relevant with what’s going on for the brand and me. More soft, more pronounced, more intimate.
How is your current collection similar to or different from past collections?
Having explored a vast practice with 1-30 (past series), technically and conceptually, and keeping the visual autobiography going, I feel it is probably much more thematic and practical. Designing was the only problem that played very vital before to me in creating a core identity, but now the business side is really being realized and a great amount of editing happened. Playing around with my strengths and putting it out there on the public platform and sifting through the things internally that we could keep working with until we feel it’s ripe for an outing. Hopefully without alienating Carl Jan Cruz’s spirit.
What materials/textiles did you use?
Most of our developed textiles and washes: denim, lightweight piqué, conceptual rib cottons and canvases, with accents of surface manipulation, “rugged-ruffled” and “rugged-quilt” that explored fabric movements from “wind-draping” (sinampay drying on clothes line) and the basahan (fabrics wiped, wet and twisted).
What influences your design aesthetic?
Life experiences gleaned from different cultures, from the preserved to the new ones.
As an independent fashion label based in the Philippines, what are the strengths and weaknesses of the local industry?
Pro: It’s a place that’s completely away from everywhere that enables me to create and look back at the industry with a very unique perspective. Con: It’s a place that’s completely away from everywhere that enables me to create and look back at the industry with a very unique perspective.
What is your vision for the brand?
For it to be always and independently honest, discreet and intimate.
Photos by CENON NORIAL III
Styled by MJ BENITEZ
Makeup by ANTHEA BUENO
Hair by RHOY CERVANTES
Modeled by SAMANTHA GOMEZ of CALCARRIE’S
Stylist Assisted by INAH MARAVILLA and FED PUA
All clothing from CARL JAN CRUZ
