The Flavors Of Spain

Spanish food is not new in the Philippines. As a Spanish colony for 330 years (1565-1898), all the Filipinos during the colonial era were already eating delicious Spanish cuisine. All Filipinos because this period, the term "Filipino" refers to Spaniards born in Las Islas Filipinas! Those that were born in the Iberian region were called peninsulares.

Culinary Journeys of Marco Polo Plaza Cebu (phone # 253-111; www.marcopoloplaza.com) moves to the Iberian Peninsula with a Spanish food festival called Sabores de España.

Spanish food is not new in the Philippines. As a Spanish colony for 330 years (1565-1898), all the Filipinos during the colonial era were already eating delicious Spanish cuisine. All Filipinos because this period, the term "Filipino" refers to Spaniards born in Las Islas Filipinas! Those that were born in the Iberian region were called peninsulares.

There were not really so many Spaniards then; in the census of 1818, there were only 4,500 Spaniards in Luzon, the Chinese about 20,000. It was an uncle of your favorite food columnist, Dr. Jose Rizal who first called the native inhabitants Filipinos and my beloved followers already know why the national hero is my relative.

The greatest heritage Spain left in the Philippines is its culture: Christianity and its cuisine. This legacy is strongly felt during the celebration of fiestas where it has become a venue to strengthen Christian values and Spanish food is served. Recipes were not adopted outright but modified to accommodate available ingredients and later adjusted to fit to the native taste.

Certainly, there are differences between what has been integrated as Filipino food to the original Spanish recipes. Author Doreen Fernandez once said, "There is no such chorizo in Bilbao or indeed in Spain." There are lots of chorizos para cocinar but no Bilbaos. The technique of the relleno, original stuffed capon and turkey now includes the bangus!

In the succeeding years as an American Protectorate (1898-1946), Filipinos began assimilating American culture and American food na pud dominated the dining tables of the country's elite. In an earlier article, I wrote about the importation of ice to make ice cream! Recipes for Spanish food gathered dust in the cupboard of kitchens. The rest remained in the memories of some brave souls who passed on their skills in Spanish cuisine to their favored descendants.

Very lucky gyud, some people like Gemma Luisa Pido who has a passion for cooking, treasured family recipes and a loving mother to guide her in the artistry of cuisine. Last August 29, your favorite food columnist was able to savor some of these Spanish delicacies.

With a glass of Senorio de los Llanos, Blanco 2007, I began dissecting the Calamares con Ajos y Pimenton (Squid rings with garlic and paprika), Jamon Serrano con Melon (Serrano ham with cantaloupe melon), Pimientos Rellenos (Small stuffed bell pepper) while lingering on the plate of Bunuelos de Chorizos Asturianos (Sausage wrapped in Puff or Philo Paste). Excuse me, so much work to do and, the service staff, sensing my difficulty in analyzing the appetizers, quickly refilled my wine glass.

Moving to the main course and a glass of Senorio de los Llanos, Vino Joven (2006), I sampled each of the Callos a la Madrilena, Pescado en salsa verde, Lengua estofada con setas, Mechado del campo and the Paella Valenciana. Then to the desserts, I tried the Sans Rival de Almendras and the Bizcocho borracho.

Moving on to the question, are these recipes indigenized or faithful to the Spanish originals? Hard to say since I have not traveled to Spain; hence, I am not qualified to make a judgment. But definitely, I had a very nice dinner! Perhaps you can email me an answer to this query. The Sabores de España at the Marco Polo Plaza Cebu will run until September 14 at the Lobby Lounge, Café Marco and El Viento Restaurant and Pool Bar.