Lechon Kumbira & nature’s glory in Ormoc
Aparade of roasted suckling pigs highlighted Lechon Kumbira, a festival in Ormoc City that celebrates the progress and bounty of agri-livestock industry in the region. Fourteen pieces of lechon entered the judging area one after the other in the city plaza. The whole place smelled of lemongrass, tamarind, garlic, onion, chives and other ingredients used to stuff the popular Filipino dish.
“Kumbira means a get-together or a boodle fight,” explained Leyte Rep. Richard Gomez, who speaks Bisaya fluently like it was his mother tongue. He is originally from Sampaloc, Manila.
The judges of the Lechon Kumbira graded each lechon according to “the crispiness of the skin, taste, aroma and physical appearance.”
“This is the fifth Lechon Kumbira,” Ormoc City Mayor Lucy Torres Gomez said. “Richard started it when he was the mayor. The festival is in support of the growing lechon industry in Ormoc.”
Ormoc lechon is tasty without MSG or all-in-one seasoning granules. The crispiness of the skin is perfect to the bite. The meat is tender. For me, the difference between the Ormoc lechon and the other lechon in the country is in its ribs. Each slab of the succulent ribs is the piece de resistance. You nibble on the meat surrounding the rib and the flavors of the whole suckling pig are there — savory, juicy, delicious. Even the rib itself, when the meat around it is gnawed totally, is soft.
The couple proudly told this writer that they are very proud of the lechoneros of Ormoc, many of whom have been in the business for more than 35 years now.
In 2021, the swine industry in the city was plagued by African swine flu (ASF), which was eradicated in less than six months. The farmers bounced back swiftly. About 100 pigs are slaughtered every day mainly to make lechon for the relatively small agricultural city and other neighboring towns in Eastern Visayas. Depending on the size, a lechon costs between P8,000 and P15,000.
“Learning from our experience, our agricultural unit in the city is strictly watchful of ASF and other livestock diseases,” Lucy added. When the safety of the people and the industry is at stake, the city government leaves no stone unturned. Biosecurity measures have been in effect for those engaged in the swine industry: proper fencing for backyard farms, application of disinfectants, zero swill (food scraps) feeding, exclusive use of farm implements and zero to limited visitors in the farm.
When all 14 pieces of lechon in competition were tasted and judged, the following lechoneros emerged as the winners of the Lechon Kumbira 2023: Rudy Sasing Tasty Lechon (first place with P70,000), Cabahug Lechon (second place, with P60,000) and Pares Lechon (third place, with P55,000).
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Ormoc and the neighboring towns are a food destination. Lucy said when the city officials did cultural mapping, food figured prominently in their research. The Queen Pineapple variety, touted by the Ormocanons as the sweetest pineapple in the world, is the pride of the city, too. Lechon, it was found out, is a delicacy that Ormocanons have been fond of for a long time. Humba, too.
Payag ni Rudwen, a park that serves native chicken and native root crops in in barangay Mat-e, in the town of Merida, is a food haven as well as a sanctuary for peace and quiet. The tinubuok na manok (whole chicken soup) is a gustatory delight that is both filling and nourishing. Tinonoang manok Bisaya sa gata (native chicken with coconut milk, papaya and horseradish) is another excellent Ormocanon delicacy.
Payag ni Rudwen’s Balanghoy sa latik (cassava with coconut curd) is already a meal, if you’re not having it for dessert. It also has a divine dessert called pintos or sweet corn tamales. Must try also is the budbud pilit (rice cake wrapped in banana leaf).
Aside from the food, guests at the place can enjoy the natural scenery. If one wants to get away from the city, the surrounding greenery of Payag ni Rudwen (payag means a hut) calms the senses. Take a slow ride on the makeshift slide made of palapa (coconut swathes) and ogle in glee the mysterious Mount Magsanga in front of you.
Heaven’s Peak in barangay Cabintan is a botanical garden famous for its many blooms. It’s a paradise all its own; every corner or every patch is picture-perfect. Instagrammable, so to speak. The place is so serene it offers a communion with nature.
The Alto Peak Café in the city offers the best champorado (with real cocoa) with fried danggit (dried fish). The little café is famous for its many chocolates. It’s said to be one of the favorite spots of lovers. (Lucy said the ultimate favorite dating place of Ormocanons is the city plaza, so she spruced up the plaza and made it more romantic.)
My go-to spot in Ormoc is Lake Danao. It is in this lake where Ormocana, a species of butterfly endemic to Ormoc, is found. Lake Danao is placid. A ride on a raft in the middle of Lake Danao is a dreamy, divine experience. The sweet breeze of the hilly topography of Ormoc invites one to enjoy idyllic living in this part of the province.
Ormoc is at once festive and healing. Like its people, it is beautiful. *
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