Straddling the old with the new in a brisk, bracing, wide-eyed sort of way, Singapore has combined elements as seemingly disparate as religion, ethnicity, and high-powered business into one lighthearted mélange of a culture that is, to put it simply, just delightful. In a country with an area roughly equivalent to 690 square kilometers (think three times the size of Washington DC), Singapore has managed to bring together Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian ingredients to create one of its best, though not so well known, local specialties: Its homegrown authentic mishmash cuisine.
With its taller than tall skyscrapers, busy businessmen and tourist pedestrians in a rush to find the best designer bargains, Singapore seems like the unlikeliest place for a foodie culture. But just like other small, concentrated, fast-paced cities that thrive on putting the newest fusion cuisine in a corner joint on the busiest street for easy access, it’s found a niche, carving out fare that is both cheap and visceral, pricey and high-concept. Hawker food centers serve hundreds all day long in modest al fresco dining areas with offerings that run from simple and hearty, like the customary noodle soup dishes that work for breakfast or lunch, to the more exotic, like steamed shark, while high-end dining destinations, with varying ambiences to match, dot the district.
The country’s unique ability to match the oddest things continues to astonish residents and visitors alike. While a predominantly First World lifestyle prevails in this affluent country, as seen in the flashy cars and well-dressed women that bedeck roomy tree-lined streets, there is a fresh, wide-eyed charm to this interracial bunch, a friendliness that is both assuring and enchanting. Restaurants mark each end of the spectrum, as unfussy street joints feed the masses in low-key, lower-priced settings, while some go in a totally opposite direction, like the majestic Raffles Hotel, which was restored to its original grandeur, with its huge white washed colonial pillars, burnished wooden bar, gracious stone fountains, and massive ornamental plants. Sophisticated jaunts are many in a city that prides itself on progress, refurbishing the old to a beautiful polish but accessorizing it with all the amenities of a tricked-out new hotspot. Chijmes, a handsome complex that weaves restaurants, bars, and shops with gorgeous open-air spaces and lots of green grass, a refreshing break from the efficiently compact concrete sections of the city, stands in what used to be a convent that housed an orphanage and a chapel. When the convent closed, in what turned out to be prime real estate, developers quickly deconsecrated the chapel and mounted stylish storefronts, while retaining the regal architecture of the place, its sweeping ceilings and arching roofs, creating a surreal experience for Catholic diners.
Nothing is missing in this capable little city-state, gastronomically that is, as even chief food meister Anthony Bourdain, upon visiting stall after stall of local street joints in his food show, easily stated, after slurping chili crab meat with rice noodles, "There’s nothing better than this."
Here, they have managed to juxtapose culture and ethnicity with a progressive approach to cuisine, a brand of taste-testing that serves as the launch pad for this year’s Singapore Food Festival, a month-long gastronomic tour of the country’s offerings.
A celebration of an eclectic mix of cultures, courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board, functions as the festival’s banner, working in themes of different cuisine styles – from home-cooked to fancy chef-prepared dinners – through tasting events, cooking lessons, and food tours.
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Opening the festival, rather appropriately, was the Makan Mania of the ’60s, an ode to retro cuisine. Streets at the Parco Bugis Junction were festooned with decorations that represented different kinds of cuisine when the festival was launched on July 1, featuring tried and tested culinary favorites such as rickshaw noodles, fat egg noodles in a simple broth, red wine chicken soup, and oyster cakes. Hawker fare wouldn’t be complete without Singapore satay, spicy-sweet bite-size pieces of chicken, mutton, and beef grilled until just right, with the tender meat’s juices accenting the flavorful marinade. Usually accompanied by steamed rice cakes, with sliced cucumbers and onions and a side of peanut sauce, these light sticks are a great way to get in some protein without ruining dinner. In fact, these bite-size pieces are perfect for whetting the appetite.
Gustatory midday delights are part and parcel of the local culture, a throwback to the afternoon tea habits of British colonizers. But the local version, a coffee or tea combo with traditional delicacies, makes this snack totally Singaporean. Normally sweetened with evaporated milk, their tea often comes in a milky brown color that’s rich and thick. For breakfast, the morning beverage is accompanied with kaya toast, a delicate spread made of coconut, eggs, sugar, and pandan, which is cooked to a fine paste, paired with a hefty slice of butter over toast. Mild on the tongue, the subtle flavor of coconut and pandan is light, perfect against the crisp warm bread that creates a slightly salty background for the spread’s sweetness. Sips and Bites Delights (July 15 - 17), a weekend event that introduces local snack favorites, will present everything, from kaya toast and its partner, soft-boiled eggs seasoned with a dash of soy sauce, to how locals enjoy their beer. Even international ice cream labels are in on the snack special, as Haagen Dazs offers signature specialties like Durian Divine, scoops of premium durian ice cream coated in a white chocolate and almond crust and garnished with gold foil. The ice cream maven even let tourists beat the heat with Pacific Paradise, a cool cocktail that involves lemon sorbet, blue Curaçao, and soda water.
For those in search of the heart of Singapore cuisine, the hunt ends with chili crabs, Singapore’s unofficial national dish and the focal point of the Deep Sea Medley (July 8-10). A truly Singaporean dish, created by local chefs more than a couple of decades ago, it involves basting the crab in a slew of hot spices over a very hot fire, then thickening the sauce with egg and flour to create a thick, hearty sauce that makes a meal out of the crab’s tender flesh. The black pepper crab, a must for those afraid of spicy food, is a mild alternative that captures the sweet essence of the crabmeat without hampering the flavor.
Epicureans can learn the secrets behind the kitchen counter with many of the culinary workshops available on weekends throughout the month-long festival. Cantonese Cuisine Classics (July 21-23) returns to the glory days of Cantonese fare, resurrecting old recipes like paper-wrapped chicken, homemade char siew and many others. With a focus on favorites from the ’40s and ’50s, it explores the roots of current local treats and brings back great flavors from the good old times. Indian food lovers can check out Devagi Sanmugam, resident chef and cookbook author, as she demonstrates a whole new way to enjoy Indian spices – creating beauty products that rejuvenate and nourish the skin through do-it-yourself methods at Secrets from the Indian Kitchen (July 23).
For most people, sampling is the best way to experience a culture, a kind of culinary meet and greet. Tastes of Chinatown (July 8-31) details the origin of Singaporean cuisine with events that include a cook off featuring three master chefs and a food trail, which involves tasting the different cornerstone dishes that make up Chinese cuisine at several participating Chinatown restaurants. A Paranakan banquet (July 8), showcasing cuisine that combines Chinese and Malay influences, is available for those in the mood to test the waters of fusion, styled in the same manner as a Peranakan home, complete with a long ceremonial table laden with dishes like curry kapitan (chicken), itek sioh (duck), garam assam (fish fillet), prepared by the chef of Soul Kitchen, a more than respectable restaurant that’s known for its traditional Peranakan style of cooking.
If wary of street food – though Singapore is known for its cleanliness – or lacking the time to hunt for local eating spots, the Singaporean cuisine showcase at Straits Kitchen at the Grand Hyatt (July 7-31) features all the local food in one convenient spot. With show kitchens open for diners to view chefs assembling Singapore laksa, grilled stingray in banana leaf, roti prata or chicken tikka, the world of street cuisine is now open to the upscale businessman or high-maintenance family. A wide variety of halal Chinese, Indian, and Malay dishes makes this place a great way to introduce local fare to the cautious diner.
One of the major highlights of the food festival, a great experience for families and couples alike, is the Gourmet Safari Express (July 31). Situated in 40 hectares of secondary forest, the Night Safari has garnered numerous awards over the years. This nocturnal land of exotic animals creates an ethereal, and almost creepy, ambience under the canopy of darkness. Subdued lighting and the hushed voices of the tour guides add to the experience of watching dangerous – and some not-so- dangerous – animals laze around in a cage-free environment. With sometimes only a couple meters or less separating the animal from the tram, seeing animals normally behind confidence-boosting bars roam free is something many urban-raised families never get to see. The Night Safari, to add to the whole experience, created the Gourmet Safari Express, with the original tram fitted with tables and chefs stationed at the back to serve a candlelit dinner while touring the zoo. Imagine chowing down gourmet dishes like chicken curry and grilled prawns while observing firsthand tigers frolic as though in the wild. The lush vegetation and exotic creatures on display create a backdrop for what could arguably be one of Singapore’s best food experiences.
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There are many ways to discover the culinary delights that make this place uniquely Singapore. The hawker stalls, like Maxwell Food Center and Hong Lim, offer good food without airs – just the way the locals have them. Whether it’s dim sum for snacks or some fried bread and wonton soup for breakfast, you can be assured that the food’s hearty and good and at decent prices. Sophisticated hotspots, like the New Asia Bar, located on the 70th floor of the Raffles City Hotel, have a dramatic glassed-in view of the city that offers a stunning 180-degree view of the Singaporean sunset, a perfect accompaniment to drinks created by the upscale bar. With such a wide array of cuisines to choose from, colorful joints throughout the city demonstrate the country’s wide demographic with spicy tasty treats that entice and enthrall visitors and residents alike. And all these multi-racial offerings seem to be imbued with an easygoing spirit that makes even the simplest of meals fun and irresistible.
Perhaps what could best sum up the buzz about Singapore is the painting of a half-naked woman that decorates a corner at the Long Bar, a larger-than-life bar with an old world vibe that’s not without a hard-partying edge, at the grand Raffles Hotel. With her blouse coyly laid open to display a pale breast, the woman seems to represent what Singapore has moved away from – stiff and a bit humorless – to what it has become: Charming and alluring, but not without its secrets. Singapore, playing against type, is ready to seduce new visitors with her lusty gastronomic pleasures. Visitors, come prepared.
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For more information on the Singapore Food Festival, call 813-0946 or e-mail stbphils@pacific.net.ph. A comprehensive list of the food festival’s main events is available at www.singaporefoodfestival.com. The program is going until July 31.